Hi Teacher;
Pin routers have been around for a long time. I'm not sure when they first appeared, probably in the late 1800's, but they became the mainstay for woodworking in factories from the 1920's up through the 1990's, when CNC routers started replacing them. In those days, the pin router was the fastest way to make 2-D shaped wooden parts, with repetitive accuracy. Fender's factory had a hundred of them in the '60's. Up until recently, most of the operations shaping a guitar body or neck were done on a pin router.
A pin router is a 2-D pattern follower. The basic design is a large rigid C-frame and a flat table. On the upper side of the C-frame is the spindle, which holds the router bit and spins at 10,000 to 20,000 rpm. Think of it as a hand router mounted on the end of big sturdy arm. On the bigger machines, like this one, the spindle is driven by a belt drive, and the motor is mounted back in the frame somewhere. A belt drive that can transmit 7 1/2 hp to a spindle going 20,000 rpm is a scary thing! The belt itself is called a Panther Belt; it's about 2" wide and 1/16" thick, and costs $195. We've blown two of them over the years.
Inside the big green housing is a steel frame that holds the whole spindle assembly and bearings, the motor and the belt drive. That whole assembly weighs several hundred pounds, and it raises up and down about 3" by two synchronized pneumatic cylinders. With a foot pedal on the floor, you can make the the spindle raise up and down fairly quickly. At the down position, it's stopped against a rotating turret of adjustable stops. Working the pedal looks like it's just moving the spindle, but actually, the whole subframe inside is moving up and down.
That's the upper half of the machine. The lower half is a big flat cast iron table with a steel pin in the middle of it. The pin is accurately and rigidly in alignment with the router bit right above it. The pins are interchangeable, and normally, you use a pin that's the same diameter as the router bit that you are using for the job. There's a small lever under the front edge of the table which retracts the pin down below the table top surface, or pops it back up. The entire table is mounted on an elevating knee, like a milling machine. That's the big crank that you see under the front of the table. It raises and lowers the table precisely over a couple inch range, and locks. That's used for the fine adjustment of the cutting depth.
So, how does the whole machine work? Suppose you want to rout the control cavity in a bass body. Or, a hundred identical bass bodies stacked up on that pallet. You build a fixture, a big flat wooden thing that slides around on the table surface. On the top side of the fixture are cleats and lever clamps to lock the body down in an accurate position. On the underside of the fixture is a slab of 3/4" MDF with an actual size cutout of the control cavity shape. That template is accurately lined up with the clamps and cleats above, to get the control cavity in the right position on the body. The pin fits up inside that cutout on the underside of the fixture. As the router bit is cutting, you manually slide the whole fixture around on the table. The pin inside the cutout sets the limits of movement and creates the shape of the control cavity.
As the worker in the Fender factory, you start with the spindle raised up and the pin retracted down. Grab a body blank from the stack, set it into the top of the fixture, and lock it down with the clamps. Slide the fixture over underneath the spindle, and flip the lever to raise the pin up into the cavity on the underside of the fixture. Click the turret stop to the first depth position, and hit the switch to fire up the spindle. It whines up like an aircraft engine.
Hold securely onto the fixture, take a deep breath, and tap the foot pedal. The spindle drops down and the router bit ploughs down into the wood to the depth set by the turret stop. Do Not let go of the fixture! Slide the fixture around by hand, carving out the cavity, feeling the perimeter of it by the pin riding around the perimeter of the cutout on the underside. Streams of wood chips arcing up and away. When it's all cut away, release the foot pedal and the spindle raises up. That's the first pass. Click the turret stop to the second position and tap the pedal again. Go around again at the second depth. Repeat until you finish the last pass, at the final depth set by the turret stop. Release the pedal, the spindle goes up, flip the lever to drop the pin, slide the fixture off to the side. Unlock the body, set it on the stack, grab the next one.
That's what a pin router is for: Fast repetitive woodcutting in a production environment. If the fixture is made well, and the operator has decent training, parts cut on a pin router can be just as accurate as on a CNC machine. And almost as fast. Of course, a human operator has to run a pin router. The human is doing what the computer does on the CNC router; hitting the buttons and steering it around.
The key part of the speed is horsepower. This pin router has 2-4 times the horsepower of a hand-held router. It's capable of routing that control cavity in maybe 3 depth passes, instead of 6 or 8 that you'd need with a handheld router.
When I get this machine up and running in a few weeks, I'm going to start a new thread just about pin routers. We'll get into more details about how they run, building fixtures, etc.
Just want to say thanks for posting that. You have a great narrative writing style that's educational and easy to follow and I'm learning a lot in your various threads.