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Jule Amps Monique part 5

I do my best to provide every opportunity for curious players to plug in to my amp & try out my Monique when possible and not a show goes by where I don't put my bass into at least one set of curious hands. In a world where most have never seen a Monique or Dingwall in person its the only way to give first-hand in-hand experience..

I always try to do the same thing. I get a lot of curious folks asking about my Dingwalls and that usually turns into them checking them out if they want to.
 
I always try to do the same thing. I get a lot of curious folks asking about my Dingwalls and that usually turns into them checking them out if they want to.

I've occasionally done things like take them on family trips so that people in other areas could try if they wanted. Or had people drive in from a few hours away to spend some time trying them out if they were looking at buying. The same goes though for my cabinets and/or my amp setup, of course.

I'm not sure that it's an entire coincidence that there are a handful of other Dingwall players here in town, given the size of Syracuse. ;)
 
Played in a venue with the worst acoustics since I got my Monique M700 11 months ago. Hard surfaces everywhere - boomy lows & hard to hear the pitch of the note. Here's my settings, but still sounded very musical.

7B2841A3-04BC-4A44-A442-45E4D25DB022_zpsuf4tini1.jpg
 
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Add in @Carey NORDSTRAND PICKUPS into the mix and you have the Holy Grail of cutting-edge bass tone. Just ask anyone!! #MAGICAL
Talking about Careys Pickups I put a set of his Single coil Fender 5 sized Pups and it turned a Cheap Ol Squire Affinity 5 into a amazing sounding bass that can compete with many of my High end basses sound wise !! Oh and not to derail thread I love my new M2500 !!! God is this thing loud,fast,and everything else and you really have to be careful with the volume knob !
 
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Talking about Careys Pickups I put a set of his Single coil Fender 5 sized Pups and it turned a Cheap Ol Squire Affinity 5 into a amazing sounding bass that can compete with many of my High end basses sound wise !! Oh and not to derail thread I love my new M2500 !!! God is this thing loud,fast,and everything else and you really have to be careful with the volume knob !
In my very small test area, with a Fearful F112 about almost touching my shoulder, I powered up a M2500 and found the volume pot had been wired in reverse. Full volume instead of Off. Very uncomfortable experience. Yes. The M2500 can be a whole lot of volume.
 
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Am I just imagining this or does my Monique M700 sound better when it's hot?

Used to switch it off between sets, but
I've been letting it run continuously for 4.5 hrs at gigs (turn down volume for set breaks) and it breaks up nicely with heavy string attack on my passive P bass w/ Roto SS rounds. Very nice!!

Top of amp is rather warm to touch and took a while to cool down (until I pointed a portable fan on it). The internal fan is on but takes ages to completely cool down at end of night.

D97614D8-280D-4A9C-8D7C-848B5E7C61E1_zpsvgnp8gyp.jpg

Fdeck @50hz & Tuner on top.
 
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Am I just imagining this or does my Monique M700 sound better when it's hot?

Used to switch it off between sets, but
I've been letting it run continuously for 4.5 hrs at gigs (turn down volume for set breaks) and it breaks up nicely with heavy string attack on my passive P bass w/ Roto SS rounds. Very nice!!

Top of amp is rather warm to touch and took a while to cool down (until I pointed a portable fan on it). The internal fan is on but takes ages to completely cool down at end of night.

D97614D8-280D-4A9C-8D7C-848B5E7C61E1_zpsvgnp8gyp.jpg

Fdeck @50hz & Tuner on top.
......with Berg!!
 
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Am I just imagining this or does my Monique M700 sound better when it's hot?

Used to switch it off between sets, but
I've been letting it run continuously for 4.5 hrs at gigs (turn down volume for set breaks) and it breaks up nicely with heavy string attack on my passive P bass w/ Roto SS rounds. Very nice!!

Top of amp is rather warm to touch and took a while to cool down (until I pointed a portable fan on it). The internal fan is on but takes ages to completely cool down at end of night.

D97614D8-280D-4A9C-8D7C-848B5E7C61E1_zpsvgnp8gyp.jpg

Fdeck @50hz & Tuner on top.
I never thought about it, but I keep my amp on during breaks and maybe it does sound better when left running.

In any case, Monique/Bergs sound amazing always IME.
 
Am I just imagining this or does my Monique M700 sound better when it's hot?

Used to switch it off between sets, but
I've been letting it run continuously for 4.5 hrs at gigs (turn down volume for set breaks) and it breaks up nicely with heavy string attack on my passive P bass w/ Roto SS rounds. Very nice!!

Top of amp is rather warm to touch and took a while to cool down (until I pointed a portable fan on it). The internal fan is on but takes ages to completely cool down at end of night.

D97614D8-280D-4A9C-8D7C-848B5E7C61E1_zpsvgnp8gyp.jpg

Fdeck @50hz & Tuner on top.
This is one of those areas (better over time) that is often rabidly discussed. Some say there can be no difference. Some swear by improvements in tone and playing characteristics that show up only after long "ON" times. I stay out of rabid discussions as a rule, but I have learned some things I will share.

I do understand that having tubes on long enough so that they run hot is going to give us improved characteristics. It is real. One of the good people I worked with in the past designed his tube gear purposely confining the tubes so that they ran physically hot. My 100 watt guitar amplifier, The Praxis, will char the inside of the wooden enclosure. All in the quest of tone.

The tubes themselves, the inner bits, being steel and precious metals in a vacuum, change shape over time. This is primarily a result of the heat generated by the filament in the vacuum (or near vacuum). That red glow (the filament) runs at about 1200 degrees centigrade. That's over 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. Just think about metal and 2000 degrees for a minute and it gets pretty interesting. The only reason the internal bits do not melt is the vacuum. This heat related change of shape is part of the explanation of the grumbles and strangeness we sometimes hear in the first few minutes with most tube gear. The other part is manufacturing techniques.

If you can give the Monique side of your Monique 700 Rack Mount some time to warm up, that is a good thing. As for how long, it only depends on how long you have available. Often we are not given the opportunity to warm things up, the performance is all that matters, but if time is available it is a good idea.

The other side of your Monique 700, the Class D Amplifier does not benefit from extended warm-up time. The amplifier part of your Rack Mount Monique 700 is going to sound exactly the same cold as it does warm. I recommend turning the amplifier OFF and leaving the Monique side ON between sets. That is why I put separate power switches on your Monique side and your Amplifier side.

As for the heat you feel in the top of the chassis, that is a good thing. The standalone M700 gets pretty toasty on top too. That is heat that has been removed from your 700 watt amplifier. There is a pretty gnarly aluminum heat sink added to your amplifier in addition to the fan to keep your amp cool. For the M2500, the heat sink is 6 inches wide. This is significantly more cooling than Hypex (the amplifier manufacturer) requires.

"Cool" means under the boiling point of water, 100C or 212F. If the vents are blocked and the fan is off, your amp can generate enough heat by itself to get too hot. If it does so, it quietly turns off and waits until it is cool enough to operate again. No damage done, unless we are in the middle of a performance.

In summary:
More warmup time for Monique is a good thing.
More warmup time for the amplifier adds nothing to the performance, except a slightly warmer stage.
 
COLD.

If your Monique 700 or 2500 amplifier or any other Class D amplifier is stored very cold, (Like in the back of a van in Buffalo in the Winter ;)) you need to be careful that moisture is not condensing on it before you turn it on. A very wise customer contacted me when he realized that water droplets were forming on his amp. "Is it OK to turn on?." NO.

Don't turn any electronic gear on if water is condensing on it. Warm it up slowly, maybe a fan to speed the process up, before powering up.
 
I recommend turning the amplifier OFF and leaving the Monique side ON between sets. That is why I put separate power switches on your Monique side and your Amplifier side.
Thanks for your very detailed reply Jule. From now on I will start using the power amp switch instead. :thumbsup:
(I'm guessing that won't mute the DI Out or Line Out though. No problem - sound desk always muted on breaks anyway).
 
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IMG_0274.JPG
This is one of those areas (better over time) that is often rabidly discussed. Some say there can be no difference. Some swear by improvements in tone and playing characteristics that show up only after long "ON" times. I stay out of rabid discussions as a rule, but I have learned some things I will share.

I do understand that having tubes on long enough so that they run hot is going to give us improved characteristics. It is real. One of the good people I worked with in the past designed his tube gear purposely confining the tubes so that they ran physically hot. My 100 watt guitar amplifier, The Praxis, will char the inside of the wooden enclosure. All in the quest of tone.

The tubes themselves, the inner bits, being steel and precious metals in a vacuum, change shape over time. This is primarily a result of the heat generated by the filament in the vacuum (or near vacuum). That red glow (the filament) runs at about 1200 degrees centigrade. That's over 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. Just think about metal and 2000 degrees for a minute and it gets pretty interesting. The only reason the internal bits do not melt is the vacuum. This heat related change of shape is part of the explanation of the grumbles and strangeness we sometimes hear in the first few minutes with most tube gear. The other part is manufacturing techniques.

If you can give the Monique side of your Monique 700 Rack Mount some time to warm up, that is a good thing. As for how long, it only depends on how long you have available. Often we are not given the opportunity to warm things up, the performance is all that matters, but if time is available it is a good idea.

The other side of your Monique 700, the Class D Amplifier does not benefit from extended warm-up time. The amplifier part of your Rack Mount Monique 700 is going to sound exactly the same cold as it does warm. I recommend turning the amplifier OFF and leaving the Monique side ON between sets. That is why I put separate power switches on your Monique side and your Amplifier side.

As for the heat you feel in the top of the chassis, that is a good thing. The standalone M700 gets pretty toasty on top too. That is heat that has been removed from your 700 watt amplifier. There is a pretty gnarly aluminum heat sink added to your amplifier in addition to the fan to keep your amp cool. For the M2500, the heat sink is 6 inches wide. This is significantly more cooling than Hypex (the amplifier manufacturer) requires.

"Cool" means under the boiling point of water, 100C or 212F. If the vents are blocked and the fan is off, your amp can generate enough heat by itself to get too hot. If it does so, it quietly turns off and waits until it is cool enough to operate again. No damage done, unless we are in the middle of a performance.

In summary:
More warmup time for Monique is a good thing.
More warmup time for the amplifier adds nothing to the performance, except a slightly warmer stage.
Thanks Jule, really helps explain how my perception of Monique progresses throughout the night. I'm a set and forget kinda player, but my ears definitely hear a difference in response and tone as the night goes on. In a good way!
 
Thanks for your very detailed reply Jule. From now on I will start using the power amp switch instead. :thumbsup:
(I'm guessing that won't mute the DI Out or Line Out though. No problem - sound desk always muted on breaks anyway).
Correct. That leaves the DI and Line Out live. Only shuts off the amp.