So last week I decided I wanted a new bass. Better Quality then the ones i have. So I set out and Sold My B4R head, My Td-3's, and My Ampeg 410HE. Hahahaha All sold in the matter a 3 days. So for Three days straight I went to music store after music store, then pawn shop after pawn shop. I narrowed it Down to a Dingwall Combustion, a Lakland 5501 and the Lakland DJ. So Friday a friend of mine and i went back again. After 2 hours of playing I had it down to the Laklands. I had enough money for whatever I wanted, and an hour after that, I walked out with a Lakland 55-01. Amazing quality and Amazing neck. Im in Love with how great it looks and How fast the neck is. SOLD on Lakland for a while now. Now I need to go buy a new Amp. Hahahaha Totally Worth it.
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LAKLAND OWNERS GROUP #48
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
- Start date
- Status
Congrats 5501 is my first Lakland it is a great bass, sounds killer recorded and live!
The body's solid underneath. I'm not sure if it's just mine, but front pickup rout is about 4mm too wide, so there is a bit of a gap. The paintwork's so superb though, that you actually have to stand quite close to notice!
Any road, the DJ looks great with the pickguard off - I've unscrewed mine several times (because I'm indecisive), which may have been a mistake - every so often now, one of the screws works a little bit loose and makes the most annoying buzzing noise whenever I play certain notes!No biggie though - just need to retighten the screw.
Hope this helps!
Cheers, SoundSupport
PS: dunno if this affects you, but the control cavity (under the chrome) IS front-routed.
that answers my question, i really appreciate it!
second lakland on the way....
my first was # 189, a fretless in cherry burst that i got from
a fellow tb'er.
shoulda never let that one go.
Is there any way to 100% confirm that the 2005 US Lakland Glaub I own is, in fact, legit? Maybe I'm spooked by the whole Ritter thread 
I bought it used off eBay. It didn't come with the original case, the guy was selling it for a friend, (I found out about both of these points after I bought it), and other information was not exactly easy to extract after the sale. I talked with Brian at Lakland, he looked at some pics and seemed to think it looked right, but I'm still curious.
All that said, I really don't have a solid reason to think it's not legit, I'm just making sure so that when I insure all my equipment I'm not committing fraud
I bought it used off eBay. It didn't come with the original case, the guy was selling it for a friend, (I found out about both of these points after I bought it), and other information was not exactly easy to extract after the sale. I talked with Brian at Lakland, he looked at some pics and seemed to think it looked right, but I'm still curious.
All that said, I really don't have a solid reason to think it's not legit, I'm just making sure so that when I insure all my equipment I'm not committing fraud
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,456
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
Is there any way to 100% confirm that the 2005 US Lakland Glaub I own is, in fact, legit? Maybe I'm spooked by the whole Ritter thread
I bought it used off eBay. It didn't come with the original case, the guy was selling it for a friend, (I found out about both of these points after I bought it), and other information was not exactly easy to extract after the sale. I talked with Brian at Lakland, he looked at some pics and seemed to think it looked right, but I'm still curious.
All that said, I really don't have a solid reason to think it's not legit, I'm just making sure so that when I insure all my equipment I'm not committing fraud
Biggest giveaway should be the serial number.
Is it stamped or in ink?
Post a picture here, we'll help.
Bone Nut, Punched S/N, BEM Dots on RW board, US style tuners...
I'd say you have a US Lakland Bass, Sir.
BTW - Early US Lakies came with non-Lakland cases. If it's a tan G&C case, I'd say that's the correct case.
I'd say you have a US Lakland Bass, Sir.
BTW - Early US Lakies came with non-Lakland cases. If it's a tan G&C case, I'd say that's the correct case.
He didn't have the original case, unfortunately. I bought a new cream case from Lakland, however. It just seemed like the right thing to do!
Thanks for the info, I do love this bass. Best P bass I've ever played, bar none, not even vintage.
Thanks for the info, I do love this bass. Best P bass I've ever played, bar none, not even vintage.
Great, now put it back in the case and don't lean it against anymore cinder-block walls. Ouch! j/k
It's sweet! Play it like you stole it.
Enjoy it!
It's sweet! Play it like you stole it.
Enjoy it!
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,456
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
Thanks everyone, I appreciate it! Oh, and I pretty much did steal it, I got it for $1500.
But I promise, no more cinder blocks.
But I promise, no more cinder blocks.
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,456
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
Alright this is getting sickening!!!!
This is the third person in two days on TB that has come up with .....incredible......stupid good...... deals!!!!!
What the funk!!!!!! Where do people find these deals?!?!?!
.....Sorry...Congrats
Just lucky, it was listed on eBay as a Lakland Bob Gluab, so it may not have turned up in a lot of people's searches. The starting bid was $1500, I bid, no one else did, I just lucked out. Probably a bad economy victim...
Now you understand why I was a little concerned about something shady though
Here it is in the case I bought from Lakland, it just looks right in there, doesn't it?
Now you understand why I was a little concerned about something shady though
Here it is in the case I bought from Lakland, it just looks right in there, doesn't it?
John, you got your US Glaub with a Dark Star and matching headstock (two costlier items over a regular US Glaub) for how much?Alright this is getting sickening!!!!
This is the third person in two days on TB that has come up with .....incredible......stupid good...... deals!!!!!
What the funk!!!!!! Where do people find these deals?!?!?!
.....Sorry...Congrats
Just lucky, it was listed on eBay as a Lakland Bob Gluab, so it may not have turned up in a lot of people's searches. The starting bid was $1500, I bid, no one else did, I just lucked out. Probably a bad economy victim...
Now you understand why I was a little concerned about something shady though
Here it is in the case I bought from Lakland, it just looks right in there, doesn't it?
Just beautiful! It's a twin of my BG 115 I bought a few months ago, except mine is a PJ. Enjoy it!
as some of you guys know I've been looking for '"my" kind of sound with ChiSonic singles. I like the punchy sound of the neck pickup but the bridge pickup is close to useless for me, only good as a "mix-up" to the neck one (again, that is for me). As Bo Pirruccello (president of Hanson pickups) answered to my request, the lack of highs on CS pickups is inherent in their concept, but a preamp might help bring up some of the highs.
Ok, so I just tried former Nessie (now fretted alder/maple 55 JJ CS) with the Sadowsky pre/DI pedal that I borrowed from a pal of mine. I have a 30Wt Torque (the older one, made in Britain) at home, so I started there.
The reviews (and specs) say it is a 2-band boost-only pedal. However, I found that the bass knob when below appr. @10 o'clock cuts the natural lows of the bass. How's that happening? Interesting. I fiddled with the treble knob and it does the same, but at a different point.
I found a balance niche where volume, bass and treble were at the same levels with the preamp on or bypassed. It is pretty close but not identical - obviously because the frequency points of the preamp are different from those of the bass. So when I tap the pedal, the effect is something like you get with the -94/-02 coil tap switch, only the difference is not so notable.
I quickly found that cutting the lows instead of boosting the treble is not something I wanted, because the bass looses its unique character. So I increased the treble and tried the effect at several levels thereof.
As I wrote before, the notes on this bass, when run in passive mode, jump out just outstandingly throughout the fretboard. It is a machine gun of a bass. Any rock/metal band would appreciate it in its lineup.
But wait, let's add highs on the Saddy with both pickups full open. Wow, now that's even better! The notes come out fruity and pulsing, and the meaty lower strings are not hindered. Soloing above the 12th fret is as good as in the passive mode, only different. The active is more "in your face".
Now let's try the bridge pickup with the pedal on. Nah, that is not so good. At its best, it resembles the plastic highs of a 2-band Zon Sonus (Polyfusion? I think that's the make of their pre). As much as I prefer Lakland LH-3 to the Bartolini used on the -94, as much the Bartolini's treble is more pleasant and natural than this. In fact, with the bridge pup soloed, it sounds better in the passive mode. Still, no resemblance of a J-bass.
To put it short: by the end of the day, I like what the pedal does when both pickups are on, the neck pup (knobs are V/V/T) being @8 o'clock and up. But I also like the bass all passive with the same settings, so would I pay $130+ plus shipping (appr. $40) for the difference? I don't think so.
However, the combo is not at all impressive, so tomorrow I'll be checking with my Ampeg B200r and maybe a Markbass head that my other pal has. I'll also try my 55-94 fretless with the pedal.
Stay tuned!
D.
Ok, so I just tried former Nessie (now fretted alder/maple 55 JJ CS) with the Sadowsky pre/DI pedal that I borrowed from a pal of mine. I have a 30Wt Torque (the older one, made in Britain) at home, so I started there.
The reviews (and specs) say it is a 2-band boost-only pedal. However, I found that the bass knob when below appr. @10 o'clock cuts the natural lows of the bass. How's that happening? Interesting. I fiddled with the treble knob and it does the same, but at a different point.
I found a balance niche where volume, bass and treble were at the same levels with the preamp on or bypassed. It is pretty close but not identical - obviously because the frequency points of the preamp are different from those of the bass. So when I tap the pedal, the effect is something like you get with the -94/-02 coil tap switch, only the difference is not so notable.
I quickly found that cutting the lows instead of boosting the treble is not something I wanted, because the bass looses its unique character. So I increased the treble and tried the effect at several levels thereof.
As I wrote before, the notes on this bass, when run in passive mode, jump out just outstandingly throughout the fretboard. It is a machine gun of a bass. Any rock/metal band would appreciate it in its lineup.
But wait, let's add highs on the Saddy with both pickups full open. Wow, now that's even better! The notes come out fruity and pulsing, and the meaty lower strings are not hindered. Soloing above the 12th fret is as good as in the passive mode, only different. The active is more "in your face".
Now let's try the bridge pickup with the pedal on. Nah, that is not so good. At its best, it resembles the plastic highs of a 2-band Zon Sonus (Polyfusion? I think that's the make of their pre). As much as I prefer Lakland LH-3 to the Bartolini used on the -94, as much the Bartolini's treble is more pleasant and natural than this. In fact, with the bridge pup soloed, it sounds better in the passive mode. Still, no resemblance of a J-bass.
To put it short: by the end of the day, I like what the pedal does when both pickups are on, the neck pup (knobs are V/V/T) being @8 o'clock and up. But I also like the bass all passive with the same settings, so would I pay $130+ plus shipping (appr. $40) for the difference? I don't think so.
However, the combo is not at all impressive, so tomorrow I'll be checking with my Ampeg B200r and maybe a Markbass head that my other pal has. I'll also try my 55-94 fretless with the pedal.
Stay tuned!
D.
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