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Lakland Owners Group #54

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#361
mumar_kalabaw said:
2. Followed the guide and used the credit card technique (using a 0.008 feeler gauge instead of a credit card). What i did was i put a capo on top of the first fret and put my thumb between the 12th and 13th frets and inserted the feeler gauge and made sure that the gauge was able to go through the gap on the 7th fret without the strings moving excessively
Click to expand...

Hey there, well I usually capo the first and hold down the E at the last fret, then use a feeler gauge at the 7th or 8th fret to check the neck relief. I usually use a feeler gauge around .010". This technique allows me to get to 4/64 across the board.
 
#363
Kinetic Shadow said:
Hey there, well I usually capo the first and hold down the E at the last fret, then use a feeler gauge at the 7th or 8th fret to check the neck relief. I usually use a feeler gauge around .010". This technique allows me to get to 4/64 across the board.
Click to expand...

Oww. Ok, well i'll try that maybe tomorrow, hopefully i can find a 64ths ruler. i only have 32nds =(

Thank you very much!

I'll report back if this solves my issue
 
#364
NAtterberry said:
Anyway we can get a better picture of that neck? Even from that distance it is beautiful

edit: Wow my iPhone messed that up. That was to chuck-o-funk
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply. I had this pic in my photobucket account.
nkclose.jpg
 
#368
mumar_kalabaw said:
Good day Lakland Community =) Greetings from the Philippines!

I just wanted to ask for your help guys! I recently followed the setup guide by Carl Pedigo via youtube. I did this because my 5501 had some fret buzz and intonation problems after 5 years of actively using it using the stock setup.

Here are the things that i did:
1. Replaced all the strings with D'Addarrio XL String Though Body. (0.45 - 0.130)

2. Followed the guide and used the credit card technique (using a 0.008 feeler gauge instead of a credit card). What i did was i put a capo on top of the first fret and put my thumb between the 12th and 13th frets and inserted the feeler gauge and made sure that the gauge was able to go through the gap on the 7th fret without the strings moving excessively

3. Adjusted the string height via the bridge. I only increased the height of each string up until there were no "serious" buzz on all the frets (fretted and open string). I had no ruler that measured by 64ths of an inch

4. Intonated that bass per string.

Problem:

My problem is i think the string height is not as low as i remember the original setup of the 5501. but when i try to lower it a little bit, there would be a serious fret buzz when i fret from 12th to about 15-16th fret. I also tried to to reseat the frets on those areas by using a hammer wrapped with thick cloth as i've read that an unseated fret could cause this. Right now there is still a noticeable buzz and i'm afraid that this could be more serious (Fret levelling or replacement).

There are a lot of guitar experts here in our country but i am trying to put it back to its original setup by myself to save money and learn how to do basic setups too so that i don't have to go to experts everytime.

Please let me know what you think. I'll try to post pics of my bass (action) in the coming days for your reference. Thanks in advance people!!!
Click to expand...
I need to know if a fret can be hammered back in because i found one that is on an angle & it buzzes when i hit it hard ?
What do i do ?
 
#370
Kinetic Shadow said:
Hey there, well I usually capo the first and hold down the E at the last fret, then use a feeler gauge at the 7th or 8th fret to check the neck relief. I usually use a feeler gauge around .010". This technique allows me to get to 4/64 across the board.
Click to expand...

I talked w/ Carl (the "man" at Lakland---- for those who don't know) on the phone once after I received an unplayable bass from him.... dang humidity in east TN and drastic temp changes in transit from Chi-town were the culprit.

He told me to do basically the same thing... only (per his instructions) I hold the A string down at the 1st fret (left hand) and at the 17th-19th w/ my rt hand thumb. Then I reach up w/ my middle or index finger of my rt hand, and test the relief around the 7th fret. Carl told me that the truss basically only affects the neck between (don't quote me) the nut and the 12th fret, so the 7th is a good testing area. I've found my 55-94s playable even when the strings are laying on the frets, but I prefer a smidge of relief because I don't like excessive fret noise (ala Flea on some recordings). :)
 
#374
CTC564 said:
Hi all...quick question

Will turning DOWN the volume of my internal preamp have any adverse effect (other than the volume)?

I'm looking to equalize the volume between active and passive mode as well as use an Aguilar Tone Hammer pedal without clipping it and my 55-94 seems so loud...
Click to expand...

not that I would notice. I used to do this on my 55-94 before. Only active with all eq pots centered is a but louder anyway, but then again you can cut the frequencies a bit. Also, the output volume in passive is quite low. But, as the 94 is dead quiet, this is not a problem - boosting the gain or overall volume on the amp solves the problem

P.S. I have this setting on the stompbox LH-3 preamp currently
 
#379
Hey LOG :)
I'm soon to be one of you again. Unfortunately I've had to sell some basses off but thankfully that puts me closer to saving for a Lakland :)
I had a 99 Special Edition Emerald one that I absolutely L O V E D.

Here's my question: Who owns a MacFarland Lakkie? Is it worth tracking one down? How is the neck any different from other Lakkie necks?

There's one on eBay right now for 4K. Personally I think that's quite steep, but if the neck is worth it, who knows?
THANKS IN ADVANCE! Lakland owners, IMO, are the frendliest and most willing to share info on their instruments :)
 
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