• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Lakland Owners Group #54

Status
Not open for further replies.
#341
OK, 'out there' question time. Has anyone ever taken the time to put a little extra effort into polishing the inlay fretboard blocks? On my 2 JJ5's they are a bit dull or matte and with some shiny new pick guards in place and the frets all polished up they are now looking just a bit lost in the mix. I think a little shine on them would make the whole package even more visually spectacular!

Does anyone know what the inlay material is? Plastic? I had a couple Spectors with inlays and they had some real visual depth. I don't believe those are plastic though. I think these could look as good. I have no problem masking them off and putting a little elbow grease to them but would like to know what I am working with to approach them with the correct tools. If they are plastic I think a little Novus polish could get me there. Otherwise some 3M micromesh pads could do the trick. Because the fretboards are finished maple I want to stay off that material as much as possible and hit only the inlay if possible
 
#342
hahaha ya sound like me.
A visual perfectionist!
I am not sure if they are the real deal holyfield ( aka mother of pearl)???
Or just good ole plastic?
I am sure one of the Lakland guru's here will have your answer for sure :D
Good luck spiffing those babies up!
Worth the effort, they are great looking basses! :bassist:

nervous said:
OK, out there question time. Has anyone ever taken the time to put a little extra effort into polishing the inlay fretboard blocks? On my 2 JJ5's they are a bit dull or matte and with some shiny new pick guards in place and the frets all polished up they are now looking just a bit lost in the mix. I think a little shine on them would make the whole package even more visually spectacular!

Does anyone know what the inlay material is? Plastic? I had a couple Spectors with inlays and they had some real visual depth. I don't believe those are plastic though. I think these could look as good. I have no problem masking them off and putting a little elbow grease to them but would like to know what I am working with to approach them with the correct tools. If they are plastic I think a little Novus polish could get me there. Otherwise some 3M micromesh pads could do the trick. Because the fretboards are finished maple I want to stay off that material as much as possible and hit only the inlay if possible
Click to expand...
 
#343
Mrfstop said:
hahaha ya sound like me.
A visual perfectionist!
I am not sure if they are the real deal holyfield ( aka mother of pearl)???
Or just good ole plastic?
I am sure one of the Lakland guru's here will have your answer for sure :D
Good luck spiffing those babies up!
Worth the effort, they are great looking basses! :bassist:
Click to expand...
Yeah, they both already play great and sound great (in fact my second East DJ-Retro should be here any day). The string situation is just about sorted for me and I am on one of them every day practicing anyway but they are just good looking enough for me to see if I can squeak a little more magic out of them. :)
 
#344
JEDI BASS said:
Yeah! And what's the story of the jazz neck on her?
Click to expand...

It is a Decade neck. Here's the story - not my words, but a little cut and paste from different posts about the bass.

…a warehouse in Nashville, where many pros store their gear, was flooded and most of the instruments were either lost or damaged. This bass was a US made Lakland belonging to Tim Marks. It's body and knobs were all that was salvageable due to severe water damage. The guys at Lakland agreed to refurbish it and give it a new lease on life...

...Her beautiful Burgundy Mist alder body & knobs are all that made it through the devastation.

With a little help from Leo, Bo & Carl at Lakland she’s been given a makeover & a 2nd breath of life.

Retrofitted with a Skyline neck (same year as the body ’08), Hanson Vintage P pickup, new pots, pickguard, used bridge & finished off with a set of US all chrome Ultralites.

She’s super light weighing in at 8.3 lbs on the digital scale, but doesn’t sound like a feather weight at all, big beefy classic P bass tone with all the trimmings.

All the superficial battle scars were left for character & tribute....

Spec recap:
US Alder body in Burgandy Mist
Skyline Decade neck 1.5" Jazz (Plek’d!)
Hanson Vintage P pickup
US Hipshot Ultralites & D-Tuner (all chrome)
New passive electronics
Weight 8.3 lbs.
Click to expand...
 
#347
Texan said:
Please take more pics of Misty in the Norwegian scenery...I REALLY miss Norway. I keep trying to get transferred to Stavanger.
Click to expand...

Hi Texan.

A bit cold over here, but anyway here's a few pics of the bass in Norwegian scenery. :D:p

bass1.gif


bass2.gif


bass3.gif
 
#351
Hi all...quick question

Will turning DOWN the volume of my internal preamp have any adverse effect (other than the volume)?

I'm looking to equalize the volume between active and passive mode as well as use an Aguilar Tone Hammer pedal without clipping it and my 55-94 seems so loud...
 
#353
Hi all, can anyone tell me with certainty which color lead is + and - on the Aero Jazz pickups? I had assumes black was ground but when I opened up my DJ5 I found both white wires soldered to the case backs and the black wires to the center lugs. That should tell me the story but I just want to confirm that there's not some odd, proprietary DJ wiring scheme before committing to the DJ-Retro installation. I checked the Aero site but didn't find what I needed yet.Thanks
 
#354
nervous said:
Hi all, can anyone tell me with certainty which color lead is + and - on the Aero Jazz pickups? I had assumes black was ground but when I opened up my DJ5 I found both white wires soldered to the case backs and the black wires to the center lugs. That should tell me the story but I just want to confirm that there's not some odd, proprietary DJ wiring scheme before committing to the DJ-Retro installation. I checked the Aero site but didn't find what I needed yet.Thanks
Click to expand...

I had this same question when putting Audere pre's in 2 of my DJ's & found both wired diffeently, so I asked the fine folks at Aero & this is what they had to say:

Thank you for contacting Aero. As long as you're consistent it doesn't matter which way you wire the pickups.
Aero uses white (+), black (-) because from this orientation the analog signal will rise when you strike a string.
This is also the correct orientation based upon engineering convention for what is positive.

Anyway... both wiring systems will work correctly. Lakland, against our advice, liked to use black as (+).

Hope this helps!
 
#355
If they look like mother of pearl they ARE mother of pearl (really). That is one of the cool things about lakies....even the "imports" use real deal materials (mop blocks, ebony boards on fretless etc)

The exception is that the black blocks on skylines are plastic...not ebony as on the us models.....but still....they ARE inserts and not just painted!

nervous said:
OK, 'out there' question time. Has anyone ever taken the time to put a little extra effort into polishing the inlay fretboard blocks? On my 2 JJ5's they are a bit dull or matte and with some shiny new pick guards in place and the frets all polished up they are now looking just a bit lost in the mix. I think a little shine on them would make the whole package even more visually spectacular!

Does anyone know what the inlay material is? Plastic? I had a couple Spectors with inlays and they had some real visual depth. I don't believe those are plastic though. I think these could look as good. I have no problem masking them off and putting a little elbow grease to them but would like to know what I am working with to approach them with the correct tools. If they are plastic I think a little Novus polish could get me there. Otherwise some 3M micromesh pads could do the trick. Because the fretboards are finished maple I want to stay off that material as much as possible and hit only the inlay if possible
Click to expand...
 
#356
Hey all, just checking in to say hello, been out of the picture for a while with work and family matters. Rest assured though Black Bart is still on the ride. Quite a lot of nice pics have been posted in my absence, very nice indeed to see such a variety - although there was one black Glaub that really caught my eye. ;)
 
#357
Mr Matt said:
I had this same question when putting Audere pre's in 2 of my DJ's & found both wired diffeently, so I asked the fine folks at Aero & this is what they had to say:

Thank you for contacting Aero. As long as you're consistent it doesn't matter which way you wire the pickups.
Aero uses white (+), black (-) because from this orientation the analog signal will rise when you strike a string.
This is also the correct orientation based upon engineering convention for what is positive.

Anyway... both wiring systems will work correctly. Lakland, against our advice, liked to use black as (+).

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
Exceptionally helpful and thanks very much! That's the answer I was looking for.

And, to their point, here it is:

Link Removed
 
#358
basspraiser said:
If they look like mother of pearl they ARE mother of pearl (really). That is one of the cool things about lakies....even the "imports" use real deal materials (mop blocks, ebony boards on fretless etc)

The exception is that the black blocks on skylines are plastic...not ebony as on the us models.....but still....they ARE inserts and not just painted!
Click to expand...
Excellent. Now to learn the most effective way to put a light polish on MOP. Thanks.
 
#359
Heyyyy Black Bart brotha.
Good your back in the saddle my friend.
:ninja:
Kinetic Shadow said:
Hey all, just checking in to say hello, been out of the picture for a while with work and family matters. Rest assured though Black Bart is still on the ride. Quite a lot of nice pics have been posted in my absence, very nice indeed to see such a variety - although there was one black Glaub that really caught my eye. ;)
Click to expand...
 
#360
Good day Lakland Community =) Greetings from the Philippines!

I just wanted to ask for your help guys! I recently followed the setup guide by Carl Pedigo via youtube. I did this because my 5501 had some fret buzz and intonation problems after 5 years of actively using it using the stock setup.

Here are the things that i did:
1. Replaced all the strings with D'Addarrio XL String Though Body. (0.45 - 0.130)

2. Followed the guide and used the credit card technique (using a 0.008 feeler gauge instead of a credit card). What i did was i put a capo on top of the first fret and put my thumb between the 12th and 13th frets and inserted the feeler gauge and made sure that the gauge was able to go through the gap on the 7th fret without the strings moving excessively

3. Adjusted the string height via the bridge. I only increased the height of each string up until there were no "serious" buzz on all the frets (fretted and open string). I had no ruler that measured by 64ths of an inch

4. Intonated that bass per string.

Problem:

My problem is i think the string height is not as low as i remember the original setup of the 5501. but when i try to lower it a little bit, there would be a serious fret buzz when i fret from 12th to about 15-16th fret. I also tried to to reseat the frets on those areas by using a hammer wrapped with thick cloth as i've read that an unseated fret could cause this. Right now there is still a noticeable buzz and i'm afraid that this could be more serious (Fret levelling or replacement).

There are a lot of guitar experts here in our country but i am trying to put it back to its original setup by myself to save money and learn how to do basic setups too so that i don't have to go to experts everytime.

Please let me know what you think. I'll try to post pics of my bass (action) in the coming days for your reference. Thanks in advance people!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back