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Lakland Owners Group #69

IIRC, the Aeros will have a nice tight twist on the pick up wire, Fralins are not twisted from the factory. Also I think if you lift the pick up covers, Aeros have reddish insides, Fralins are black.

Thank you sir. I just installed a new switchcraft jack and noticed the pup wires were multistrand, not twisted.
I will check the underside of the pups tomorrow with a string change. :thumbsup:
 
To match the black pickguard and mother of pearl inlay blocks on the fretboard, I made Ebony knobs with mother of pearl inlay dots. The pick doesn't pickup the pearl well, but it looks killer! My next mod will be to make a new black control plate.

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Those look killer!!!! A black control plate would be awesome!!!
 
My US Lakland is in the local repair shop again..

The bass had no sound despite new batteries so they repaired it with a few new components on the preamp circuit board.

I did about 6 gigs with the bass in a 1-2 week period and on the last gig, there was a loud high pitched squeal coming from it.

The squeal doesn't react to the volume control but it seems to react to the treble and mid pots.

If I let the bass rest for a bit and try again, it plays for about 5-10 mins and starts squealing again.

Hopefully they are able to figure out and fix the repair..
Anyone got any clues to what might be the problem? :(

It pains me to not be with my bass!
 
My US Lakland is in the local repair shop again..

The bass had no sound despite new batteries so they repaired it with a few new components on the preamp circuit board.

I did about 6 gigs with the bass in a 1-2 week period and on the last gig, there was a loud high pitched squeal coming from it.

The squeal doesn't react to the volume control but it seems to react to the treble and mid pots.

If I let the bass rest for a bit and try again, it plays for about 5-10 mins and starts squealing again.

Hopefully they are able to figure out and fix the repair..
Anyone got any clues to what might be the problem? :(

It pains me to not be with my bass!

Not entirely sure, but if it's only reacting to adjusting frequency controls, I would venture it's a component on the preamp circuit board (LH3?) that is shorted and overheating going by your description of letting the bass rest or "cool down".

Doesn't sound that big of a deal, I'm sure Lakland will get it sorted, probably just replace the board. Fear not :)
 
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Agreed. If anyone else here wants to humor me with some more simple measurements for statistical data I'd be much obliged! I think pickups "center-to-center" seems the easiest. Also whether it is a Skyline or US model. For reference again, 70s spacing should be about 1/4" farther apart...

Mine is a DJ5, so a Skyline. Comes in at 3 ⅝".
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Well dang it, I'm out. Sold my '07 Skyline JoBo5, 3Tbrst,tort gard, rosewood, all stock with LH3 pups. And now, after also selling my much missed, '02 Cherryburst/Maple 55-02D, I am Lakland-less. :crying:

Upside, I sold the JoBo5 to a TX TBer. Nice meeting you Jim, thanks for lunch and the trip down this way. I had a hard time thinking of selling the JoBo, as its also the last of my rosewood board basses. So I'm all maple, ebony boards now. But though some may disagree here. After recently finding a Carvin SB5000, 3Tbrst/Maple w/TC-passive pull knob on Ebay with a pristine HS Carvin case n candy, at a very nice price. I doubt I'd ever pick up the JoBo5 again. So off she went.

But I declare now, I wont remain Lakland-less for too long. Always wanted to try a DJ5. And as much as I love my '08 Am St P5, cola/maple, I know how well Lakland builds their Fender copies, so maybe a Lakland P5 at some point.

Finally, I'd also like to try a new Lakin designed J bass. They making 5 stringers yet? So I'll prolly now be on the FS threads looking for a nice priced, 55-02D or DJ5 or other Skyline to get back in the LOGs' good-graces again. :smug:
Peace Y'all, ernie
 
Rustoleum make a version of plastidip in others colors, just FYI.

I did the pickguard about an hour ago and like the result. The black control plate, pickguard and Ebony knobs really made dramatic change in the look of the bass.
 
You're right. Think I'll take it down to the car wash in a bit...:p

I was actually noticing how dirty the fretboard was and that it's probably time for a fresh set of Elixirs. Outdoor gigs over the past couple of weeks have funked the DJ5 up a bit :bassist:

I thought it was on purpose...

Try Gorgomyte, best I've found for cleaning up frets.

So, plasti-dip works very well for blacking out control plates. It's easily removed with wd40 if you don't like it. I just cleaned the chrome control plate with Windex and sprayed two coats in the plate. I'm very happy with the result. I may do the pick guard as well to get an exact match.

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Looks nice, of course I like the satiny black and the soft feel of the Plasti-dip is pretty cool as well.

One note, I've found that it comes off pretty easily on smooth surfaces that haven't been prepared or roughed up first.
 
I thought it was on purpose...

Try Gorgomyte, best I've found for cleaning up frets.

I think the shadows/camera filter (I used an "enhance" filter) make it look way dirtier than what it really is - no doubt it needs a bath though. I normally give the frets a hit with steel wool when they get cruddy, I'll give that a try. Thanks for the info!
 
Rustoleum make a version of plastidip in others colors, just FYI.

I did the pickguard about an hour ago and like the result. The black control plate, pickguard and Ebony knobs really made dramatic change in the look of the bass.

It's not a Lakland, but you've sparked a Plasti Dip project with my Fender Precision V (modded to a PJ). I've never used the stuff before, but we'll see how it turns out. If I don't like it, I'll just tear it off.
 
I think the shadows/camera filter (I used an "enhance" filter) make it look way dirtier than what it really is - no doubt it needs a bath though. I normally give the frets a hit with steel wool when they get cruddy, I'll give that a try. Thanks for the info!

No worries. I usually get it at Stewmac, but I think you can buy it directly as well. Also, I use spent dryer sheets to absorb/remove the oxidized residue and buff the frets to a shine.
 

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