• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Lakland Owners Group #69

Yes a strap is in order. He knocked it out of the park on my strap, love it.
Show a pic!

Here’s the latest one I got just a few days ago. Ostrich leg used for the insert. So cool!
BEBA50CE-529D-41EE-B41C-31EF54BDB422.jpeg
 
Hi Lakland gurus/owners!

I hate the B string on my Peavey Grind. It seems that anything more than barely a finderpad playing the string, and its attack-city. I've tried 3 different strings types and brands, rewired pickups/switches/etc. Pretty sure its just how that bass plays.

Everyone raves the B string on a Lakland is amazing. So my question is, how is the playability in terms of attack on the 44/55 series (~600-800$ used)? Is it the same, where you have to feather it so light its like you barely played it so you dont get insane attack? Or are you able to actually play it without crazy attack at the slightest touch?

I'd love to be able to play one, unfortunantly no one around me has one available, so I'd have to buy unplayed.

Thanks for any input!
 
Hi Lakland gurus/owners!

I hate the B string on my Peavey Grind. It seems that anything more than barely a finderpad playing the string, and its attack-city. I've tried 3 different strings types and brands, rewired pickups/switches/etc. Pretty sure its just how that bass plays.

Everyone raves the B string on a Lakland is amazing. So my question is, how is the playability in terms of attack on the 44/55 series (~600-800$ used)? Is it the same, where you have to feather it so light its like you barely played it so you dont get insane attack? Or are you able to actually play it without crazy attack at the slightest touch?

I'd love to be able to play one, unfortunantly no one around me has one available, so I'd have to buy unplayed.

Thanks for any input!
I don't know what scale your Grind is and I once owned a Cirrus that I really wanted to love but it was just such a dead fish it was quickly gone. And I'll add that I have owned a few 5 strings over the years, and the 35" scale covers Lakland (all Skyline), Spector, Modulus and Dingwall. I am not one to assign magical properties to such things, and I honestly can't give you a best. But what I can tell you is that cross the 8-10 Skylines I have owned, most loaded with Nordstrand and my current 55-94 with stock Lakland electronics (generally through GK and Bergantino gear with DR or Lakland SS or nickel rounds) I have not had one that disappointed me. Nothing orgasmic or epiphinal but rock solid with NONE of the attack issues you describe, ever. If I had to say I think the Dingwall, then Modulus were my faves, and teh Spector and Lakland an equak and very close second, but thats nit-picking. And for me, it's not just B but more often the C I use a lot in the modern country I occasionally play now and it delivers the requisite impact I look for and I rarely baby the attack down there. The issues you describe are not anything I have ever experienced. I am pretty sure you would not be disappointed with the low range of these. The greater issue is if YOU like how they play, feel and sound. I have owned more Lakland than any other brand in my lifetime so I keep gravitating back.
 
Hi Lakland gurus/owners!

I hate the B string on my Peavey Grind. It seems that anything more than barely a finderpad playing the string, and its attack-city. I've tried 3 different strings types and brands, rewired pickups/switches/etc. Pretty sure its just how that bass plays.

Everyone raves the B string on a Lakland is amazing. So my question is, how is the playability in terms of attack on the 44/55 series (~600-800$ used)? Is it the same, where you have to feather it so light its like you barely played it so you dont get insane attack? Or are you able to actually play it without crazy attack at the slightest touch?

I'd love to be able to play one, unfortunantly no one around me has one available, so I'd have to buy unplayed.

Thanks for any input!


I've never had an issue with attack on the B string.... And I've owned ( own) a few Lakie 5ers.

Best B in the industry imho
 
Guessing you like the FretFx(?) leds? I ordered an F-Bass with luminlays in it, and got some glow in the dark stickers for some basses (haven't tried them yet), glad to see there are aftermarket options for playing in low light.
Yes FretFx are the best and most affordable LED option. I have luminlay in the Warwick and glow dot stickers on my Lakland 5er. But, having a powerful flashlight and time to charge them at a show, is a pain! I’ll be wearing shades tonight and won’t have any issues knowing where my notes are.
 
If by attack, are you meaning the B is smacking the frets? Cause, I’ve never heard of an issue quite like what you describe.

As for best B, Laklands are great, MTD and Peavey Cirrus even better (in my experience), Dingwall (@ 37”) have the best B out there hands down. BUT, Laklands suit me better in every way. Dingwalls won’t work for me because I’ve been playing parallel fret basses too long and I can’t and won’t switch.

A better B does not trump the total Lakland package.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MAXSPINRUN
Wall of sound!:bassist:
Yup :-)

For anyone that’s interested... GET A DUAL P!!! There’s no words to describe how much I enjoyed that bass last night! Forgive me if I’ve said this stuff before, cause I’ve talked about this build on several threads. But.... Carl describes it as a “Better J bass” cause the pickups are close to J bass location. But, my original plan was to have both pickups reversed w/ the bridge pickup in the Stingray location, and the neck pickup as close to the neck as possible, like where the Scheff pickup is. But, Carl and I didn’t want the two P pickups being too close to each other. So, the bridge pickup was moved back some, very close to where a 44-94 humbucker is. And the neck pickup couldn’t be reversed because I slap occasionally and the lower half would be in the way. The end result was magical! The neck pickup at 100%, bridge at 80% and tone 100% = perfection!!
 
Yup :)

For anyone that’s interested... GET A DUAL P!!! There’s no words to describe how much I enjoyed that bass last night! Forgive me if I’ve said this stuff before, cause I’ve talked about this build on several threads. But.... Carl describes it as a “Better J bass” cause the pickups are close to J bass location. But, my original plan was to have both pickups reversed w/ the bridge pickup in the Stingray location, and the neck pickup as close to the neck as possible, like where the Scheff pickup is. But, Carl and I didn’t want the two P pickups being too close to each other. So, the bridge pickup was moved back some, very close to where a 44-94 humbucker is. And the neck pickup couldn’t be reversed because I slap occasionally and the lower half would be in the way. The end result was magical! The neck pickup at 100%, bridge at 80% and tone 100% = perfection!!


Double P basses are my main studio axe for the past couple years now. I have Gary Lunn to thank for the intro to them and now full blown addiction.

FF36D121-F656-4166-BE31-3CE467FF9F4A.jpeg
 
Double P basses are my main studio axe for the past couple years now. I have Gary Lunn to thank for the intro to them and now full blown addiction.

View attachment 3525428
I found those Alien Audio basses after we started the build. I like what they offer and the pickup placement is really close to what mine has. Mine is passive though. Do you use the preamps much?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MAXSPINRUN