Come visit again and you can feel 1) tru oil and wax over what was raw wood, 2) tru oil and wax where poly used to be, and 3) tung oil where poly used to be.
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From what I notice the fretboard has a wear stain around the upper frets under the G string. I bought a used 55-01 here and it showed up with the same issue in a different spot. I took it to a luthier who told me there was nothing to be done about it. Oil and dirt from fingers get into the grain. Unless you like a worn look it's probably a deal killer.
Well I am officially a member now. Thanks to consultation from this thread. Ordered one of these on Reverb this weekend.
I really like that color combo. Congratulations, beautiful. Welcome.
Oh my, another trip to JJ’s candy store! I’m down for that!
CAR is always a fave. So beautiful! Congrats!
Thanks, I'm always a sucker for red and maple. And the block inlays are icing on the cake.
short answer: yes
longer answer: Tru oil provides a harder finish (IME) than mineral oil/beeswax blend that I use (Howards), but will get you in the same non-sticky ball park versus a gloss poly finish.
This is such a looker! So a 5 string 34” PJ. Great choices to make it your own!
Hey all! I just joined the club by picking up a 55-14 on a trade with a forum member. I'm really liking it.
I was looking at the FAQ on the official Lakland website and I see they recommend orange oil and clear paste wax or bowling alley wax for maintaining the neck. Are there specific products that you all use? I'm looking at Amazon and a lot of the clear paste wax comes in large containers that are like 30 bucks. Is beeswax the same thing or a good substitute? I see that comes in small containers.
Thanks!
I was looking at the FAQ on the official Lakland website and I see they recommend orange oil and clear paste wax or bowling alley wax for maintaining the neck. Are there specific products that you all use? I'm looking at Amazon and a lot of the clear paste wax comes in large containers that are like 30 bucks. Is beeswax the same thing or a good substitute? I see that comes in small containers.
Thanks!
I have a 55-02, and I won't be much help on your passive tone wiring question, but from playing in a church setting I have had the same "brittle" tone issue. I could tell as soon as I un-boxed it and played it unplugged that it was much brighter than the other basses I've played (old Fender PB 4 and a Modulus 5). First 5-6 times at church (contemporary PW w some modern gospel mixed in), I never got it dialed in, just a bad mix of bright top-end and a thin low-end (we play direct, no amps). Breakthrough for me was to set up my Helix Stomp XL for an Ampeg B-15 preamp, add some EQ for some extra low-end and mids, then on the bass roll the bass knob in active mode up 0-30% (depending on song and the overall mix) roll the treble off 20-30% and leave the mid flat. This gave me the fat bottom end that the FOH guy wants but still enough high-end for definition and have it sit up in the mix a bit. If that had not worked I was going to try flats instead of rounds, I was that desperate. But, works great now, and that Lakland low B is so sweet when you need it!
The first thing I did when I got my 55-02 was to put flats on it. Very pleased with the way it sounds and plays.
ptidwell
Commercial User
Can anyone tell me what year Lakland changed the toggle switch on the 55-XX series? The older fat one is bulletproof. I've had to change the newer one on two different basses.
Just wondering why.
Just wondering why.
They changed it when they moved from the Bartolini preamp to their own electronics.
Sort of. I agree with @Holdsg that Howard’s Feed n Wax is a closer feel to a US neck.
I use Howard’s Feed n Wax
