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Let's See Your Hot-Rodded Cheapo Basses!

@diablo_man

I put a KA on my 32” scale Warmoth P. Like the Hamer the bridge holes are right up against the butt of the bass. The bridge end is dead even with the end of the bass. (looks long in this shot):

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That said it beats the bent bridge in adjustability, the positions stay put once they’re adjusted, and, there aren’t saddle screws digging into my hand when I palm mute (which I do a lot).
 
Yeah i was a little concerned about the length of the KA, but the edge of the body is 1.25" from the existing screws, and the KA extends back 1.06" from the holes. So it should fit. But since my existing bent bridge doesnt have a 5 hole fender layout(its 4 holes, one at each corner) I will be filling the existing holes anyways and drilling new ones.

Given how much adjustability range(2" intonation apparently) the KA has, it could likely be shifted a little forward if it needed to and still intonate fine.
 
But since my existing bent bridge doesnt have a 5 hole fender layout(its 4 holes, one at each corner) I will be filling the existing holes anyways and drilling new ones.
If the KickAss bridge covers up the existing holes, why bother with filling them? It'd be a lot of work and, assuming they'd remain unseen, the only appreciable outcome would be ensure that you can no longer drop the original bridge back in should you ever feel the need…at least, not without drilling them out again. :confused:
 
When I put this bass together I got the body for free. The neck was from a $50 P bass copy from the 70s and the pick ups and electronics I took out of an old 70s MM stingray. Sanded the finish down on the body and routed new holes for the pickups, new custom pick guard and used the control plate of the old stingray as well.

Before:
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After:

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This is a fairly low priced build. The body is an inexpensive used lightweight Warmoth that I bought right here on Talkbass. It was already sufficiently beat up when I bought it. The Mexican P neck I had laying around as well as the control plate and pots and knobs. The Dimarzios were new. I couldn't resist the unusual pickguard which I also bought right here on Talkbass. The result is a relatively inexpensive 8 pound bass that can hang with the high-price spread.
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This is a fairly low priced build. The body is an inexpensive used lightweight Warmoth that I bought right here on Talkbass. It was already sufficiently beat up when I bought it. The Mexican P neck I had laying around as well as the control plate and pots and knobs. The Dimarzios were new. I couldn't resist the unusual pickguard which I also bought right here on Talkbass. The result is a relatively inexpensive 8 pound bass that can hang with the high-price spread
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Se-eh-eh-exxxy! That's cool good sir.
 
This is a fairly low priced build. The body is an inexpensive used lightweight Warmoth that I bought right here on Talkbass. It was already sufficiently beat up when I bought it. The Mexican P neck I had laying around as well as the control plate and pots and knobs. The Dimarzios were new. I couldn't resist the unusual pickguard which I also bought right here on Talkbass. The result is a relatively inexpensive 8 pound bass that can hang with the high-price spread.
View attachment 3507099 View attachment 3507100 View attachment 3507101 View attachment 3507102 View attachment 3507103

Very cool! :cool: Does it growl like a gator?
 
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If the KickAss bridge covers up the existing holes, why bother with filling them? It'd be a lot of work and, assuming they'd remain unseen, the only appreciable outcome would be ensure that you can no longer drop the original bridge back in should you ever feel the need…at least, not without drilling them out again. :confused:


Well the laurel burl veneer is actually going to cover over all the holes regardless, but the back two holes are close but not quite the spacing for the outer two holes on the KA bridge. So, talking to luthier friend he suggested filling them so the new drill/screw hole doesnt bust through one of the old ones, off to the side, etc.

We will see, once i get the new bridge delivered we will figure the best place to put it.
 
Well the laurel burl veneer is actually going to cover over all the holes regardless, but the back two holes are close but not quite the spacing for the outer two holes on the KA bridge. So, talking to luthier friend he suggested filling them so the new drill/screw hole doesnt bust through one of the old ones, off to the side, etc.

We will see, once i get the new bridge delivered we will figure the best place to put it.
Well, that makes a ton of sense. Carry on, sir! :thumbsup:
 
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Anyone ever try the Lace Aluma Bass Bar pickups?

Was at my luthier friend's (he is doing some hole filling, nut work, etc on my Hamer ) and he had a pair of bass bar 4's(typically meant for a 5 string) that dropped perfectly into the overly large soapbar routes for the 4 string hamer. Thinking of swapping those in while Im going to all this effort modding.
 
Anyone ever try the Lace Aluma Bass Bar pickups?

Was at my luthier friend's (he is doing some hole filling, nut work, etc on my Hamer ) and he had a pair of bass bar 4's(typically meant for a 5 string) that dropped perfectly into the overly large soapbar routes for the 4 string hamer. Thinking of swapping those in while Im going to all this effort modding.
I have them in a Spector Legend 5 Classic. I prefer them to the stock SSDs or EMG-HZs or whatever came with the instrument, which seem like all boom and sizzle, particularly with the Tone Pump Jr preamp. I think Alumitones have a warm overall character with a wide frequency response. The innate chime-y top end of the Spector doesn't really suit my style as it turns out, but it's a perfectly good sound.

Weren't you going to start a separate thread for your work in progress?
 
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