On the 4-in-line or the 2x2? I presumed the 2x2 wouldn’t dive at all. My ATKs (2x2 and 2x3) (and stock!) have the big clover keys and don’t dive at all.
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Let's See Your Hot-Rodded Cheapo Basses!
- Thread starter Riff Ranger
- Start date
The body is fairly light and the OEM tuners were heavier than the Gotohs. Bonus is the Gotohs are very smathooooth.
How about an in progress hot rodding?
copying from my post on the Hamer club thread.
Been after a 30" bass for a while, found a Slammer SB4F-CS for 190$ canadian that I really enjoyed the sound/playability on. Way cheaper than most of my guitars/basses(Kiesel, Carvins, Japanese Ibanez, etc), but this has a dead straight neck, good fretwork, really good tuning stability and great tone. And since its cheap, I wont feel too bad making some major changes!
Ok, as for what I have planned: I'll be adding a forearm cut/bent Laurel burl veneer top, probably a belly cut and burl veneer back as well. Will be doing a PRS style lower horn bevel so I can reach a few of the higher frets. Likely using leftover burl veneer and removing/replacing the black painted headstock/slammer logo. Unsure if I will do an oil finish on the body afterwards or try a gloss.
Really like how it plays, but with a tendonitis issue in my right arm going on 2 years recovering, the slab sided body is really uncomfortable. This was the first thing that made me want to modify it at all, that and I find having 3-4 of the high frets being nearly unusable to be annoying. While it will change the look significantly, the photoflame top is something I dont mind losing, and I tend to prefer less thick/opaque translucent finishes, or just the plain wood look.
Here is a picture of the veneer tops I have ordered. 15"x28"x1/42", big enough to do a single piece over the body without bookmatching, I got 4 pieces coming. One for top and bottom and two leftover for practicing the veneering method and testing finishes.
So far I intend to leave the electronics as is, though I may swap down the road if I find a good set that fits the same routes. the Chrome bridge is pretty chintzy, so Im open to suggestions for upgrades to that, preferably that use the same mount holes. the plastic nut is kind of beat up, may have a luthier friend replace that with something better.
the PRS style cutaway ( https://www.12fret.com/wp-content/uploads/ngg_featured/PRS-Custom-24-25th-cutaway-1.jpg ) should also get rid of a really visible finish defect in that area. looks like a spot of wood filler maybe 2cm across visible through the gloss.
This is the thread that made me think of doing a veneer top/back. HAMER SLAMMER BASS
Thoughts?
copying from my post on the Hamer club thread.
Been after a 30" bass for a while, found a Slammer SB4F-CS for 190$ canadian that I really enjoyed the sound/playability on. Way cheaper than most of my guitars/basses(Kiesel, Carvins, Japanese Ibanez, etc), but this has a dead straight neck, good fretwork, really good tuning stability and great tone. And since its cheap, I wont feel too bad making some major changes!
Ok, as for what I have planned: I'll be adding a forearm cut/bent Laurel burl veneer top, probably a belly cut and burl veneer back as well. Will be doing a PRS style lower horn bevel so I can reach a few of the higher frets. Likely using leftover burl veneer and removing/replacing the black painted headstock/slammer logo. Unsure if I will do an oil finish on the body afterwards or try a gloss.
Really like how it plays, but with a tendonitis issue in my right arm going on 2 years recovering, the slab sided body is really uncomfortable. This was the first thing that made me want to modify it at all, that and I find having 3-4 of the high frets being nearly unusable to be annoying. While it will change the look significantly, the photoflame top is something I dont mind losing, and I tend to prefer less thick/opaque translucent finishes, or just the plain wood look.
Here is a picture of the veneer tops I have ordered. 15"x28"x1/42", big enough to do a single piece over the body without bookmatching, I got 4 pieces coming. One for top and bottom and two leftover for practicing the veneering method and testing finishes.
So far I intend to leave the electronics as is, though I may swap down the road if I find a good set that fits the same routes. the Chrome bridge is pretty chintzy, so Im open to suggestions for upgrades to that, preferably that use the same mount holes. the plastic nut is kind of beat up, may have a luthier friend replace that with something better.
the PRS style cutaway ( https://www.12fret.com/wp-content/uploads/ngg_featured/PRS-Custom-24-25th-cutaway-1.jpg ) should also get rid of a really visible finish defect in that area. looks like a spot of wood filler maybe 2cm across visible through the gloss.
This is the thread that made me think of doing a veneer top/back. HAMER SLAMMER BASS
Thoughts?
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Epiphone EB3's
Both purchased used for under $200.00
Black EB3
Replaced stock three point bridge with a babicz bridge $180.00
Replaced tuners with Grover tuners $45.00
Replaced sidewinder pickup with DiMarzio Will power pickup $99.00
Eliminated 1 tone control and installed a latching kill switch $17.00
Cherry EB3
Replaced stock 3point bridge with a hipshot
bridge. $90.00
Replaced tuners with Grover Turner's $45.00
Replaced sidewinder pickup with DiMarzio will power pickup $99.00
Eliminated 1 tone control and installed latching kill switch $17.00
These bass's are great now. Fast necks.
Look cool. Take a set up great. I love them
Both purchased used for under $200.00
Black EB3
Replaced stock three point bridge with a babicz bridge $180.00
Replaced tuners with Grover tuners $45.00
Replaced sidewinder pickup with DiMarzio Will power pickup $99.00
Eliminated 1 tone control and installed a latching kill switch $17.00
Cherry EB3
Replaced stock 3point bridge with a hipshot
bridge. $90.00
Replaced tuners with Grover Turner's $45.00
Replaced sidewinder pickup with DiMarzio will power pickup $99.00
Eliminated 1 tone control and installed latching kill switch $17.00
These bass's are great now. Fast necks.
Look cool. Take a set up great. I love them
Attachments
- Apr 20, 2009
- 2,101
- 929
- Disclosures
- I'm the Squier of Fenderbirds
Here's my 4th Fenderbird--I'd say it's pretty hotrodded what with bolting a fender neck (among other things) to an Epiphone Elitist (set neck) Body.
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Just got my veneer pieces in, for the Hamer Shortscale. Look pretty nice! Doing them on front and back.
I'll probably start a separate thread when I get around to really working on it.
I'll probably start a separate thread when I get around to really working on it.
finished my rough in on the body mod bevels. Used a Flapper wheel on a angle grinder, had some masking tape to help with layout, but ended up mostly free handing.
Already a major improvement in ergos with the belly cut and the arm bevel, and the cutaway bevel now allows me to get at the top frets relatively easily, which was essentially impossible beforehand.
Already a major improvement in ergos with the belly cut and the arm bevel, and the cutaway bevel now allows me to get at the top frets relatively easily, which was essentially impossible beforehand.
Here’s mine: An Ibanez SR205 with a high mass bridge off eBay and Schaller strap locks. The bridge was a big improvement in every way - it increased the string spacing from 15mm to 17mm, cured the neck dive it used to have, and kicked sound quality up a notch or two. That might also have something to do with a new set of D’addarios. It may get one of those Seymour Duncan pres at some stage...
Nice bridge! Im trying to find a replacement for the one in my Hamer above you, 4 string, think 18mm spacing
Thanks! You shouldn’t have any problems finding one on eBay. They’re affordable too, mine was $20 or so including shipping
If you're looking for something of a High-Mass persuasion, allow me to suggest something like this…
Brass Bass Bridge - High Mass - Jazz, Precision and Jaguar Basses - No Drilling
Link Removed
You might be able to tighten up the string placement to something close to, if not spot on, the spacing you desire. Obviously, it's not going to be a direct, drop-in replacement, but for some reason, I suspect you're okay with the idea of adding a few screw holes.
thats definitely kind of what Im after, though Id prefer one i can confirm is either 18mm or has finely adjustable spacing. And yeah part of the best thing about doing the laminate top is i get a fresh slate for new screw holes.
The heatgun took the finish right off the Hamer on the top, just peeled up and flaked off no problem. Probably because it was over top of a paper photoflame layer, because the side and back are NOT budging at all. Even stripper barely made a dent on this thick epoxy like coating. Not looking forward to sanding it.
Fantastic
Im thinking a Hipshot Kickass might be the best bridge for me. Seems to have the largest adjustability range for height and intonation, can handle 18mm spacing(SO many 4 string bridges are 19 or 20), and is one of the cheaper brand name offerings out there.
Thoughts? Also, I'm thinking a move to black hardware on the bridge might be a good look over the burl top, but Im not sure yet.
Thoughts? Also, I'm thinking a move to black hardware on the bridge might be a good look over the burl top, but Im not sure yet.
That’s a sweet looking pair
Thanks I can’t believe How truly sweet this setup is and for next to nothing!
I have played bass for 57 years and owned over 300 basses and I’m blown away by this bass and cheap amp!
