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Low Down Sound 15/6.5 Cab

#621
Yea that's exactly what I had going on. I called Don and he sent me out a bundle of 1 and 1/4" standoffs to replace the 1" standoffs, and no more grill thwack.

I also ordered a high pass filter pedal from Guttermouth electronics - even with the 1" standoffs, no issues with that. But I don't want the cabinet dependent on a pedal to function so I got it squared with the 1 and 1/4" standoffs.

Just take the grill off, replace the standoffs, done.

One thing to bear in mind: Exceeding if you're hitting the grill with 1" standoffs, you could potentially be damaging your driver if you go much beyond that. That's right around where you exceed Xmax. However, from what I can tell, this driver has an xlim nearly twice its xmax, so it's not that big of a deal.

IIRC, I measured and it's about 3/8" of an inch from the speaker surround to the grill with 1" standoffs. So right around 10mm excursion I believe.
 
#623
You could do that too but then you have two parts to fall off if you take the grill off. They're just held on by pressure from the screw.

The standoffs are basically 1 1/4" tall rubber stoppers with holes in them.

You could always glue 1/4" rubber washers onto each standoff I guess :)

I always wondered why the standoffs were not attached to the grill personally. I really am not a fan of the stoppers as you have to arrange them pretty precisely and carefully line up the screw with the hole underneath, etc. They are basically just screwed into the baffle.
 
#628
billhilly66 said:
Cool, I'll stop off at the hardware store and see about something I can shim it with. ....
Click to expand...

A stack of steel fender washers wrapped in black electrical tape and placed between the rubber spacer and the baffle would work and be pretty invisible. You'll want the rubber spacer to contact the grille.

Edit: In case you're not familiar with the term, a fender washer is a large diameter washer with a small diameter hole in the middle. Matching the outer diameter to the rubber spacer and the inner diameter to the grille screws will help keep them centered on the screw.
 
#631
billhilly66 said:
500 bucks for the Carvin and then you have to replace the drivers. Seems like it'd be cheaper to have one built.
Click to expand...

The thing is the Carvin comes with two decent midranges, a decent horn and a decent quality crossover. Getting two 18 sound 6nd410s a horn and the box (his shipping is going to be a lot more than carvin's 50 also), and the coating, etc, would get very expensive.

It definitely would not be cheaper to have it built, but it would be better, since Don's would be to fEarful specs.

You're probably right :)
 
#633
There's an LSX1523 b-stock on the Ebay for 400 now too, really tempting. :)

I think you would probably need to modify the high pass up to 3.5k for bass but I dunno. tough to say. I tend to dial the treble from my amp and don't really miss having a tweeter on my cab.
 
#634
Chef said:
take the head out as well. if you've got flip out side handles, those can be a problems as well.
Click to expand...

I can try removing the head, and my cab doesn't have flip out handles.

rpsands said:
Take the grill off and see if you still have it. I switched my grill to 1 1/4" standoffs per don's recommendation and there is no longer any noise or grill thwackin etc.

Because it's on the low notes I'd think grill is the most likely, unless it resonates to B/C on the higher strings too. So check that as well.
Click to expand...

I may try removing the grill. The only problem I have with that is it isn't really easy to find the screw holes when I screw it back on. :o Also, the buzzing occurs on the B-C notes on the A and G strings. I wasn't even referring to the lower notes on my 5-string.
 
#635
I solved the ellusive screw hole deal with toothpicks. Put a toothpick in the screw holes as you remove the screws. You can then remove the grill and leave the toothpicks sticking out of the holes. When you go to put it back on, lay the grill down over them and pull em out one at a time when you replace the screws.
 
#636
billhilly66 said:
I solved the ellusive screw hole deal with toothpicks. Put a toothpick in the screw holes as you remove the screws. You can then remove the grill and leave the toothpicks sticking out of the holes. When you go to put it back on, lay the grill down over them and pull em out one at a time when you replace the screws.
Click to expand...

Good tip. Might have to buy some toothpicks...
 
#638
bassplayer7770 said:
I can try removing the head, and my cab doesn't have flip out handles.



I may try removing the grill. The only problem I have with that is it isn't really easy to find the screw holes when I screw it back on. :o Also, the buzzing occurs on the B-C notes on the A and G strings. I wasn't even referring to the lower notes on my 5-string.
Click to expand...

Did you try it with the head separately?

I actually sent my Iamp 800 to EA to be checked out because something inside the amp was resonating to A/Bb/B - as well as the lid. Both the lid and a heat sink were resonating.

Turned out to be a coil inside and the lid, which they fixed.
 
#639
rpsands said:
Did you try it with the head separately?

I actually sent my Iamp 800 to EA to be checked out because something inside the amp was resonating to A/Bb/B - as well as the lid. Both the lid and a heat sink were resonating.

Turned out to be a coil inside and the lid, which they fixed.
Click to expand...

I might try removing the head first, then the grill if the head isn't the issue...
 
#640
BillyB_from_LZ said:
A stack of steel fender washers wrapped in black electrical tape and placed between the rubber spacer and the baffle would work and be pretty invisible. You'll want the rubber spacer to contact the grille.

Edit: In case you're not familiar with the term, a fender washer is a large diameter washer with a small diameter hole in the middle. Matching the outer diameter to the rubber spacer and the inner diameter to the grille screws will help keep them centered on the screw.
Click to expand...

See this thread for more on Fender washers: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=553102&highlight=fender+washer

Thanks again, Leo.
 

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