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Mesa Boogie Walkabout Mega-thread Part 10

Question for those of you that have replaced your cooling fan -

I put the Silenx fan in and, when I first powered it up, the fan didn't want to turn. I started it by hand and then it ran fine. I measured voltage at the wire splices and got a bit more than 9 volts with the fan spliced in and 12 when the fan was removed. Is this normal? Does the load of the fan draw down 3 volts?

It now runs fine and is indeed silent but I have to wet my finger and hold it over the vent on the amp face to feel the air moving. I haven't had any thermal issues and don't feel much if any heat after a two hour practice but this doesn't seem quite right to me.

What model fan is it? I used one with a thermal sensor that I attached to the heat sink. It will vary the fans speed depending on the heat the sensor senses. Also, did you soldier the fan directly to the board? If you simply cut the wires and connected the new fans wires to the old ones there may still be a voltage dropping resister in line. I had to bypass this resister and soldier the Silenx fan wires directly to the board.
 
Thats one of the things that i was worrying about... SBS or Stacked with that passive radiator..
I Usually like SBS on my gigs.. Good floor coupling .. I run DI so room is not a issue..I currently have one Walkabout combo.. but i LOVE the tone of that head..
Thinking of maybe getting another combo then one extra 112 cab to run... So it would be 3 112s total... Modular and loud enough for just about anything.. mmmmm

My experience:
Stacked - better/clearer on-stage monitoring (ear proximity?)
S.B.S. - better low end projection (ports coupling with floor?)
 
What model fan is it? I used one with a thermal sensor that I attached to the heat sink. It will vary the fans speed depending on the heat the sensor senses. Also, did you soldier the fan directly to the board? If you simply cut the wires and connected the new fans wires to the old ones there may still be a voltage dropping resister in line. I had to bypass this resister and soldier the Silenx fan wires directly to the board.

Did you remove the resistor that was in place on the board where the red wire solders onto? I did the mod but snapped the old wires and connected them to the new fans wires. I'm using a Noctua fan.
 
I finally scored an 8 ohm extension cab and I'm looking to change the driver in my combo from 4 ohm to a matching 8 ohm.

Mesa tells me this is the current 8 ohm driver for the 12" combo:
12” Ceramic 8ohm Bass Speaker (767345)

I though that was an error, but I guess not. Apparently they switched over to ceramic (though they have a lot of 4 ohms neo still in stock).

Has anyone already gone through this? I like the light weight and tone of the combo with the existing driver. I'd like to match it as best I can.
 
Craig;

I'd wager you could put an Em 2512 in there and have that work out pretty well.
In fact, I think someone in here did that, for just the reason you decribe; not wanting the weight gain of the ceramic driver.
 
Wow, thanks for all the help guys. It's really appreciated.

I don't actually have the extension cab yet - it's being shipped. So I'm not sure which driver it has.

Does anyone have any opinions on the tone differences between the neo and the ceramic?

Or any opinions on how important it is for me to match the drivers?
 
Did you remove the resistor that was in place on the board where the red wire solders onto? I did the mod but snapped the old wires and connected them to the new fans wires. I'm using a Noctua fan.

Yes I removed the resister and connected my fan directly to the board. This will send the full 12V to the fan, otherwise it won't run at full speed with the resister in there.
 
What model fan is it? I used one with a thermal sensor that I attached to the heat sink. It will vary the fans speed depending on the heat the sensor senses. Also, did you soldier the fan directly to the board? If you simply cut the wires and connected the new fans wires to the old ones there may still be a voltage dropping resister in line. I had to bypass this resister and soldier the Silenx fan wires directly to the board.

It's the Silenx EFX-08-15 - no thermal sensor. I did just cut the wires and connect the new fan. However, when I measured the voltage of just the cut wires before connecting the fan, it read 12 volts so I'm thinking there was no resistor.

Did you remove the resistor that was in place on the board where the red wire solders onto? I did the mod but snapped the old wires and connected them to the new fans wires. I'm using a Noctua fan.

I did not think to look for a resistor since I was getting 12 volts from the wires prior to connecting the fan. Sounds like I need to get back in there.

Thanks for the help.
 
What cab paired with the walkabout will get me tonally closest to the B-15N? I have a '64 B-15N (double baffle) that I love and would like a louder more portable version of. Or am I barking up the wrong tree with the walkabout?
 
A B15 cab is a real UNIQUE sounding cab.... Fliptops.net sells New but empty or loaded B15 double baffle cabs,,
The Mesa PH115 would be nice but wont be like a B15,, But It will be way more potent .. I use Genz Uber115s and a pair of them with the WA head is fairly stout.
I seriously want to get a Mesa sealed 410 cab
 
It's the Silenx EFX-08-15 - no thermal sensor. I did just cut the wires and connect the new fan. However, when I measured the voltage of just the cut wires before connecting the fan, it read 12 volts so I'm thinking there was no resistor.



I did not think to look for a resistor since I was getting 12 volts from the wires prior to connecting the fan. Sounds like I need to get back in there.

Thanks for the help.

You read 12V because there was no current draw. Once the fan was running there was a V drop across the resister hence the remaining 9V on the fan when its running.

Take that resister out and connect the fan right to the board.
 

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