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I have had this problem with a Fathom I have and will no longer use the DI will use my Radial JDI instead.Called Mesa and they say they have never heard this problem but believe there are more people with this but not saying anything ?Anyone experience any issues with the DI on the M6/Fathom. I played a gig last weekend where I had some crazy line noise. Lifted the ground and still no go. The stage tech changed out the XLR cable... Still there.
It's usually a 50/50 chance with it and I have no idea why. Now i just use the DI on my Darkglass B7K.I have had this problem with a Fathom I have and will no longer use the DI will use my Radial JDI instead.Called Mesa and they say they have never heard this problem but believe there are more people with this but not saying anything ?
+1, I've never had an issue with my M3, M6 or M9 DI or the DI on any Mesa amp.I used the di on my fathom, m6 and m9 and never had this (or any) issue with any of their di's
Sounds like you stripped the screw holes in the chassis. That's a tough fix if you don't have access to some specific tools (specifically an 82 degree countersink) and some 8-32x1/4" TRUNCATED flat-head phillips (self tapping) replacement screws. You will need to open the countersunk hole in the top a little bit to match the new screws. The stripped hole should be exactly the right diameter for the replacement screws to re-thread. Replace all of the cover screws this way.So it's come to pass that 3 of the 6 tiny screws that hold the metal top cover to the chassis on my M6 no longer tighten all the way down. As a result, there is a crazy loud buzzing sound as they vibrate while i play. As a temporary fix i've been putting the end covers from the rack mount between the head and cab, but I'd like to fix the problem for real. Anyone else have this issue, or can suggest what to do? Just get new screws?
Sounds like you stripped the screw holes in the chassis. That's a tough fix if you don't have access to some specific tools (specifically an 82 degree countersink) and some 8-32x1/4" TRUNCATED flat-head phillips (self tapping) replacement screws. You will need to open the countersunk hole in the top a little bit to match the new screws. The stripped hole should be exactly the right diameter for the replacement screws to re-thread. Replace all of the cover screws this way.
As a general note, I have seen this problem in a lot of products (not just Mesa and Genz Benz), and it is caused by 2 things... the first is over-tightening. Snug is good, there is no need to tighten the snot out of these screws. The second cause is that the screw is not started in the existing threads correctly which causes the screws to recut the threads. After a few times, there's nothing left to recut. When installing any sheet metal or machine screw, turn the screw counter-clockwise until you feel it drop down into thread path and then tighten. Done properly, the threads will last well beyond the life of the product.
You are close enough to Petaluma that the factory service guys should be able to help. Give customer service a call.Thank you agedhorse for your quick reply, and thank you kindly for sharing your time and expertise. What size head diameter to use for the countersink? I will look into doing this myself, but just in case, is there a shop in or near SF that you might recommend to do the job?
Ok perfect, I'll start w a call to cs and go from there. I love a trip to P town (great pool hall downtownYou are close enough to Petaluma that the factory service guys should be able to help. Give customer service a call.
The head diameter can vary by vendor, but it's critical to get the truncated (under-cut) type screws. Otherwise the screw will bottom out in the hole without tightening the cover down.
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If you look closely, the "H" dimension is thinner because the bottom by the screw thread is undercut. The screws in your amp are 6-32 undercut flat heads as well.