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Modulus Mob

I have been commissioned to design a pickguard for a standard fleabass, I also have to make it but I can't find any measurements at all, could anyone on here with a flea bass help me out, I need the distance between the string saddle and the pickup, the distance between the pickup and the start of the fret board and the length and width of the pickup. Help would be majorly appreciated, thankyou!!
 
I need the distance between the string saddle and the pickup
This distance depends on 2 things:
1) Type of bridge installed - it can be gotoh or badass 2
2) Saddles are not in line, because you need to adjust them to get good intonation. So you can't measure from the saddle.
the distance between the pickup and the start of the fret board
On fleabass, fretboard is longer than the neck - so you should measure from the pickup to the actual beginning of the neck.
 
I was just wondering; you guys with Fleabasses, how do you keep the neck, trussrod-wise? I´m doing pretty much a neutral trussrod setting, the strings position a bit away from the fretboard around 15.th fret and up, or so
Also, I fitted the bass with Power Slinky strings, I´m wondering if the added extra thickness of the strings is just enough to keep the strings from falling into the nut grooves. -I can´t help but feel that the E and A strings are a bit high below 5.th fret, and I can´t see how the neck adjustment can have anything to do with that
I´m thankful for any constructive input here
 
Just in case anyone is interested...

After having a satin finish neck on a VJ, I just wasn't digging the feel of the gloss on my FU, so I sent the neck to Pat Wilkins (who incidentally supplies(ied) the product that Modulus used for their finishes) to have him do a satin refinish and it came out just perfect. Feels just like the VJ did and is smooth as silk.
 
Just in case anyone is interested...

After having a satin finish neck on a VJ, I just wasn't digging the feel of the gloss on my FU, so I sent the neck to Pat Wilkins (who incidentally supplies(ied) the product that Modulus used for their finishes) to have him do a satin refinish and it came out just perfect. Feels just like the VJ did and is smooth as silk.

Nice, when i bought my bass, they said that it had a satin finished neck. But it hadn't... :(
 
I was just wondering; you guys with Fleabasses, how do you keep the neck, trussrod-wise? I´m doing pretty much a neutral trussrod setting, the strings position a bit away from the fretboard around 15.th fret and up, or so
Also, I fitted the bass with Power Slinky strings, I´m wondering if the added extra thickness of the strings is just enough to keep the strings from falling into the nut grooves. -I can´t help but feel that the E and A strings are a bit high below 5.th fret, and I can´t see how the neck adjustment can have anything to do with that
I´m thankful for any constructive input here

I would give that trussrod a clockwise 1/2 or full turn. Tightening it is only one way to lower the action, and if the strings have less tension that the previous set of strings, tightening the truss rod will be necessary to get the action as low as it was before the string swap.


Just in case anyone is interested...

After having a satin finish neck on a VJ, I just wasn't digging the feel of the gloss on my FU, so I sent the neck to Pat Wilkins (who incidentally supplies(ied) the product that Modulus used for their finishes) to have him do a satin refinish and it came out just perfect. Feels just like the VJ did and is smooth as silk.

I played an outdoor gig on a humid night a few weeks ago with my Q5 and I was thinking about asking you about this. How much did he charge you?
 
I would give that trussrod a clockwise 1/2 or full turn. Tightening it is only one way to lower the action, and if the strings have less tension that the previous set of strings, tightening the truss rod will be necessary to get the action as low as it was before the string swap.

Wouldn't it be the other way around? If the strings have less tension, then the neck will straighten out or back bow, requiring a loosening of the truss rod to get the strings up off the frets.

Conversely, where the strings have more tension, such as potentially in this case, the neck will bow more, requiring the tightening of the truss rod. I wish my 1991 TBX had a truss rod.
 
Wouldn't it be the other way around? If the strings have less tension, then the neck will straighten out or back bow, requiring a loosening of the truss rod to get the strings up off the frets.

Conversely, where the strings have more tension, such as potentially in this case, the neck will bow more, requiring the tightening of the truss rod. I wish my 1991 TBX had a truss rod.

Yup, that's what happens when I post right after I wake up!

But then again, the action should not be higher when he replaced the strings....so maybe its not a truss rod adjustment thats needed. Maybe those 2 strings are larger than the ones that were previously installed causing then to sit higher in the nut.
 
That seems like a reasonable price to me. Did you take the neck off and just ship the neck?

That's what I thought considering the benefits.

Yes, remove the hardware and the neck and send it to Pat. Give him a call or send an email first to give him a heads up. He'll also quote you a price at that point.

You can send in the whole bass and have him do the disassembly and assembly, but that adds to the shipping cost and there is a fee for that service.
 
Yup, that's what happens when I post right after I wake up!

But then again, the action should not be higher when he replaced the strings....so maybe its not a truss rod adjustment thats needed. Maybe those 2 strings are larger than the ones that were previously installed causing then to sit higher in the nut.

I always thought Modulus neck action was pretty impervious to things like string gauge change, but that hasn't been my experience at all. I have to choose strings very carefully to balance the ability of the neck to hold the tension and remain in a playable shape. It's a PITA, to be honest. DR Sunbeams 30-120 seem to be the best choice for keeping the neck with good relief, although I do love the strings. I'd just like to be able to experiment with other options. No truss rods mean no go.
 
Agreed, Edwin. I had a Q5 with no truss rod and I could not use my favorite Lo-Riders because the tension was too high and pulled the neck so I could never get the action low enough for my taste, so off it went.

That's too bad. I'm hoping that Modulus gets their act together and can service my bass and get it right. I wonder if it's possible to add a truss rod after the fact?
 
Martone/Edwin, my Q5 was similar. I had a buzz a few years back...I thought the neck was bowing.....went on for a few months....no truss rod....was about to send it in and JP asked me to change the strings before sending it to him. I put D'Addario XLs, which is what Modulus puts on them.....no issues after that.
 
But then again, the action should not be higher when he replaced the strings....so maybe its not a truss rod adjustment thats needed. Maybe those 2 strings are larger than the ones that were previously installed causing then to sit higher in the nut.

The Elixir sat on the bass when i got it, so i´m not sure what the guages were, but there were´nt any noticeable differences with strings sitting higher, the problem was more low attack below 5.th fret.
I just tweaked a bit on the the rod and action, and now she sounds and plays great. -Zingy and crispy tops when I dig in a bit, clear and everlasting at normal playing.

-Also, I´m thinking the low tones on the E string may have been a problem due to me playing on a Warwick amp, somehow when I went to rehearsal with my Eden Metro and freshly tweaked bass, all was well.
All is good, that ends well, apparently :bassist:
 
Can someone (sleepy?) confirm that this is the set they ship with? My Q5 is long overdue, and this thread just reminded me of that fact...

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I'm not sure on the exact set, but if you want to save a few bucks, buy them from Invalid Link Removed.

And if you sign up as a VIP member by providing your TalkBass username, you can save a little more. Not affiliated, just a happy customer for the last couple of years.