Oops, not fretless, I meant with an F hole
Haha! Oh ok. Then yeah I never see those, lol. But if I come across one ill be sure to let you know!
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Oops, not fretless, I meant with an F hole
This distance depends on 2 things:I need the distance between the string saddle and the pickup
On fleabass, fretboard is longer than the neck - so you should measure from the pickup to the actual beginning of the neck.the distance between the pickup and the start of the fret board
Just in case anyone is interested...
After having a satin finish neck on a VJ, I just wasn't digging the feel of the gloss on my FU, so I sent the neck to Pat Wilkins (who incidentally supplies(ied) the product that Modulus used for their finishes) to have him do a satin refinish and it came out just perfect. Feels just like the VJ did and is smooth as silk.
I was just wondering; you guys with Fleabasses, how do you keep the neck, trussrod-wise? I´m doing pretty much a neutral trussrod setting, the strings position a bit away from the fretboard around 15.th fret and up, or so
Also, I fitted the bass with Power Slinky strings, I´m wondering if the added extra thickness of the strings is just enough to keep the strings from falling into the nut grooves. -I can´t help but feel that the E and A strings are a bit high below 5.th fret, and I can´t see how the neck adjustment can have anything to do with that
I´m thankful for any constructive input here
Just in case anyone is interested...
After having a satin finish neck on a VJ, I just wasn't digging the feel of the gloss on my FU, so I sent the neck to Pat Wilkins (who incidentally supplies(ied) the product that Modulus used for their finishes) to have him do a satin refinish and it came out just perfect. Feels just like the VJ did and is smooth as silk.
I played an outdoor gig on a humid night a few weeks ago with my Q5 and I was thinking about asking you about this. How much did he charge you?
I would give that trussrod a clockwise 1/2 or full turn. Tightening it is only one way to lower the action, and if the strings have less tension that the previous set of strings, tightening the truss rod will be necessary to get the action as low as it was before the string swap.
Wouldn't it be the other way around? If the strings have less tension, then the neck will straighten out or back bow, requiring a loosening of the truss rod to get the strings up off the frets.
Conversely, where the strings have more tension, such as potentially in this case, the neck will bow more, requiring the tightening of the truss rod. I wish my 1991 TBX had a truss rod.
It was a buck and a quarter, plus shipping both ways. To some it might seem a little steep, but it is definitely worth it IMO.
That seems like a reasonable price to me. Did you take the neck off and just ship the neck?
Yup, that's what happens when I post right after I wake up!
But then again, the action should not be higher when he replaced the strings....so maybe its not a truss rod adjustment thats needed. Maybe those 2 strings are larger than the ones that were previously installed causing then to sit higher in the nut.
Agreed, Edwin. I had a Q5 with no truss rod and I could not use my favorite Lo-Riders because the tension was too high and pulled the neck so I could never get the action low enough for my taste, so off it went.
But then again, the action should not be higher when he replaced the strings....so maybe its not a truss rod adjustment thats needed. Maybe those 2 strings are larger than the ones that were previously installed causing then to sit higher in the nut.

Can someone (sleepy?) confirm that this is the set they ship with? My Q5 is long overdue, and this thread just reminded me of that fact...
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