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Modulus Mob

Sweet! Any idea what else is in the electronics package? Looks like a pair of stacked knobs towards the back, plus that 5th knob which presumably is for the piezo...some mid-sweep action going on there perhaps?

@Bob_Ross if is the normal EMG with BQC System yes, Volume, Balance, Mid with variable frequency stacked and Treble/Bass Stacked, I also believe the 5th knob is for the piezo.
 
I'm gassing for a Funk Unlimited- Daphne blue or shell pink? MM or P?
I personally don’t like P’s. The pick up is right where I like to play, so I hit it a lot with my fingers. Therefore, I’m biased against them.

I will say that I feel the FU should always be MM. Maybe Jazz style, but I kind of like the VJ for that more.

Shell pink looks nicer to me, as well. Never really been a massive fan of blue, though.
 
^ Cool. I've never bought an instrument BECAUSE my heroes play it, but my heroes are M. Gordon, Dave Schools, Phil Lesh, and Otiel Burbridge, and I play a Quantum. Coincidence?

On that note, it just occurred to me that maybe the only other modulus bass I have ever played in my life was one of Oteil's. It was a Q6 that he had given to a killer player from North Carolina named Taylor Lee, who lived down the hall from me freshman year. Maybe if I keep at it, I can get my hands on the Modulii of Phil and Schools!
 
Sweet! Any idea what else is in the electronics package? Looks like a pair of stacked knobs towards the back, plus that 5th knob which presumably is for the piezo...some mid-sweep action going on there perhaps?
@Bob_Ross if is the normal EMG with BQC System yes, Volume, Balance, Mid with variable frequency stacked and Treble/Bass Stacked, I also believe the 5th knob is for the piezo.
i was wondering about the layout also. maybe one of the stacked pots are the piezo volume/piezo tone?

or maybe the layout is like a peavey b-quad which was:

1. master volume
2. stacked neck volume/bridge volume
3. stacked bass/treble
4. piezo volume
5. piezo tone

guess stu can enlighten us when that beast shows up!
 
I'm gassing for a Funk Unlimited- Daphne blue or shell pink? MM or P?

I've answered the siren call of pastel Moduli.

20140608_102708_zpsff4e52b1.jpg
 
i dont believe it to be a 2001 but it doesnt matter. Sick score. Are you a mike gordon fan?

It's not a 2001, serial number indicates '98. The strange thing is that I received a certificate of authenticity with a completely different serial number on it. I wonder if this is in fact the bass he intended to sell, or if some kind of mistake happened. I've got a message in on Reverb to figure that one out.
 
I received the Mike Gordon bass today. To be honest, I'm looking into returning it. It came with Ken Smith Slickrounds on it, and terribly high action. I tried a set of brand new DR high beams I had laying around and even with those on, the neck has .045" of relief in it. Most of my basses are set up .008" to .010". If I kept this, it would have the worst action of any thing I own. Can any of you Modulus owners out there comment on neck relief? Is this typical?

Neck aside, the tone of this thing is incredible. The TBX rings clear and true, the low end is like the voice of God.
Beyond the neck, I am waiting to hear back from them on why the certificate of authenticity has a completely different serial number (SN for a 2001 bass) on it than the bass (SN for 1998) does...
 
I have had extensive work on my preTBX neck thru. Complete fret job and actually had to have the bridge inset into the body to be able to get the proper height on the strings. One of my best playing basses!! When I bought mine it had been defretted with a flat blade screwdriver.. It was horrible. Unplayable. A couple of weeks with my master luthier and it plays better than new and you can only tell anything is up (it has 2 string retainers to help with the headstock angle) and if you get really close, you can see where the neck has been filled to clean it up. These are 100% repairable and for not a extreme amount. But, since you are neck deep in it (no pun here), it will be a hard choice to sink more into it, but again it is MIKE GORDON's bass!!
 
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I received the Mike Gordon bass today. To be honest, I'm looking into returning it. It came with Ken Smith Slickrounds on it, and terribly high action. I tried a set of brand new DR high beams I had laying around and even with those on, the neck has .045" of relief in it. Most of my basses are set up .008" to .010". If I kept this, it would have the worst action of any thing I own. Can any of you Modulus owners out there comment on neck relief? Is this typical?

Neck aside, the tone of this thing is incredible. The TBX rings clear and true, the low end is like the voice of God.
Beyond the neck, I am waiting to hear back from them on why the certificate of authenticity has a completely different serial number (SN for a 2001 bass) on it than the bass (SN for 1998) does...


Those necks definitely move. Thing probably sat unplayed for at least a decade. How is the yellowing? Feel free to pm me some pics or post here. If you’re returning it because of those issues I may take a stab at it. It likely could use a fretboard planing and a refret to get the action back in order.
 
I received the Mike Gordon bass today. To be honest, I'm looking into returning it. It came with Ken Smith Slickrounds on it, and terribly high action. I tried a set of brand new DR high beams I had laying around and even with those on, the neck has .045" of relief in it. Most of my basses are set up .008" to .010". If I kept this, it would have the worst action of any thing I own. Can any of you Modulus owners out there comment on neck relief? Is this typical?

Neck aside, the tone of this thing is incredible. The TBX rings clear and true, the low end is like the voice of God.
Beyond the neck, I am waiting to hear back from them on why the certificate of authenticity has a completely different serial number (SN for a 2001 bass) on it than the bass (SN for 1998) does...
That amount of bow could easily be taken care of by a good refret job - just need to level the fingerboard under a tiny bit of induced front bow. With the old frets removed, you basically clamp the bass on the workbench and place appropriate shims under the neck, then level it like fretless. Pop in new frets and finish the job as usual. Any good luthier could do this, and probably has already done it many times to normal wood basses and guitars. It's really not that different, you just don't have the built in "tool" of a truss rod to help manipulate the neck.

You ought to negotiate with the seller to see if they'll pay for the work, or at least part of it.
 
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