Oh, and just an FYI - My '93 TBX neck lays dead flat with the strings off, and has a very tiny bit of relief under string tension. I never measured it, though.
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Modulus Mob
- Thread starter rockstarbassist
- Start date
The problem your having with that TBX is the phenolic fingerboard has shrunk and is putting relief on the neck, honestly you would need to have the fingerboard replaced.
Sadly you say this. I dinged my FU4 just yesterday was wondering myself how to fix or prevent any possible chipping.
Okay Mr. Expert, I've had adleast 7 or 8 Quantums go bad on me due to the phenolic board shrinking and either I had the board replaced like on a TBX I once had and that took a year roughly to get back and that phenolic board shrank as well causing major relief on the neck and the other Quantums I had the necks totally replaced with another Quantum neck or I sold the instrument if there was a problem with relief and that was also including necks with truss rods.
Yeah, their customer service did get pretty bad.
Even if that was the fix that Modulus recommended, in my opinion replacing a fingerboard to fix .035" of excess relief is crazy. I would guess most luthiers that are in the repair business would agree. Leveling a fingerboard is a common procedure for any experienced repair luthier. I mean, think about it - it's a lot easier to block-sand 1/32 of an inch out of a fingerboard than to replace it. Also consider that when your classic '66 Les Paul has a relief problem, you don't rip the original fingerboard off unless there is absolutely no other option.
It's a common repair.
And on top of all that - you still need to do leveling when you replace a fingerboard!
It's unfortunately a fairly common problem that most manufacturers are not very well equipped to do repairs - that's not really their business. Not saying that's right, but it's true.
Nothing really special to repair - it's a polyester clear coat, can be repaired by sanding/repainting, or do a "fill and sand/polish" using clear epoxy or cyanoacrylate.
See this thread, which includes advice from Modulus guys (Geoff Gould and Jerry Dorsch), as well as Pat Wilkins (guitar finishing expert).
Edit - sorry, left out the link........
Modulus Graphite Neck Peeling
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I think people get way too freaked out over carbon fiber when it comes to repairs. Yeah, it ain't wood, but just take a breath and understand that 95% of the procedures you'd use are the same as working with a wood neck, including fixing clear coat chips, refretting, leveling, etc.
As far as "no truss rod anxiety".......... understand that most classical guitars don't have 'em either, and repair luthiers have been dealing with them for the last century or so.
And all stringed orchestral instruments........
It's not rocket surgery.
Neck jig. Sanding block.
Also keep in mind that a less experienced luthier may have "tunnel vision" as far as having/needing a truss rod to use as a tool when fingerboard and fret leveling, but a neck jig is a very common luthierie tool. If a luthier doesn't have a neck jig, or especially if they haven't even heard of one, I wouldn't let them work on any neck I own, carbon fiber or wood.
And all stringed orchestral instruments........
It's not rocket surgery.
Neck jig. Sanding block.
Also keep in mind that a less experienced luthier may have "tunnel vision" as far as having/needing a truss rod to use as a tool when fingerboard and fret leveling, but a neck jig is a very common luthierie tool. If a luthier doesn't have a neck jig, or especially if they haven't even heard of one, I wouldn't let them work on any neck I own, carbon fiber or wood.
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I really don't understand the warm and fuzzy feeling some people get with "truss rods" in these. Someone correct me if I am misinformed, but my understanding is that they add zero stability to the neck. As a matter of fact, Modulus was consistently calling them "adjustment rods". They don't actually move or straighten the neck, they put tension on the bottom of the fingerboard to push it upwards. The tradeoffs are, different neck profiles (I like the pre-rod profiles much better) and reported different response and sound. That was my experience with both, however I did not have them side by side for a fair comparison. My 97 FB4 has no truss. It also has action of about 1/16" at the twelfth fret across the board.
In summary: Marketing move to please those who don't understand how these work and why a truss rod in one is mostly worthless IMO
In summary: Marketing move to please those who don't understand how these work and why a truss rod in one is mostly worthless IMO
I agree, mostly worthless, but for different reasons. I'm not that picky about action and relief. But I'm also not a 3000 notes-per-second kind of bass player, either. I can play plenty fast on any bass with reasonable action/relief, and actually prefer action a little on the high side for cleaner tone.
I think many players spend way too much time obsessing over mechanics instead of musicianship. But those players buy instruments, so I can't fault a builder for catering to them.
Not much to add to the discourse here on the truss rod/relief contro,
any more than to thank JD or "JC" in whoever case endowed me with
the '98 Q5 that has no relief buzzing fret problems since I purchased
new in that year. And no truss rod. Appears (line of sight) perfectly straight
with low 7/64 action and has played like greased lightnin' for 10+ years
in every imaginable freezing/ bleeding hothumid environment w/o the first setup.
Sure I'm therefore blessed 'cept for the link thread re: poly breakdown.
Which I've decided to live with till I locate a graphite- knowledgeable local guy.
Especially given the discussion, I'm leery of neck removal awa accepted "CA fill" fix.
It's easy to give (well- founded) advice, till you're the one guy where it, "didn't work".
Till then, the recent MMSR5 Piezo covers. But the Q is still #1.
any more than to thank JD or "JC" in whoever case endowed me with
the '98 Q5 that has no relief buzzing fret problems since I purchased
new in that year. And no truss rod. Appears (line of sight) perfectly straight
with low 7/64 action and has played like greased lightnin' for 10+ years
in every imaginable freezing/ bleeding hothumid environment w/o the first setup.
Sure I'm therefore blessed 'cept for the link thread re: poly breakdown.
Which I've decided to live with till I locate a graphite- knowledgeable local guy.
Especially given the discussion, I'm leery of neck removal awa accepted "CA fill" fix.
It's easy to give (well- founded) advice, till you're the one guy where it, "didn't work".
Till then, the recent MMSR5 Piezo covers. But the Q is still #1.
Appreciate it. Although I dinged the body not the neck. Still applies or just chalk it up as a beauty mark.
Need a NAMM report! One of those twin TBXs sold already... Modulus posted a picture before the show of them with black knobs, now the sold one has wooden knobs, ala Mike after he switched them on his main go-to TBX. Wonder if he's ordered yet another one? Or if someone built a replica?
One of these days, I'll be able to play one and feel/hear the difference. I am 99% tone happy (more ham I ever thought possible). That said, I remember a Phish show a couple or three years ago where Mike played a bolt on and his TBX, and I couldn't hear a lick of difference in the mix. Even relistening!
Still wanting a 6, and still wanting a TBX. Guess my dream bass will have to be both!
One of these days, I'll be able to play one and feel/hear the difference. I am 99% tone happy (more ham I ever thought possible). That said, I remember a Phish show a couple or three years ago where Mike played a bolt on and his TBX, and I couldn't hear a lick of difference in the mix. Even relistening!
Still wanting a 6, and still wanting a TBX. Guess my dream bass will have to be both!
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