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Modulus Mob

#8,421
“So here is a new Modulus Bass for Mike Gordon of Phish.
It'll be fun to find if Mike can hear and feel the difference.

Ask master builder Joe Perman how he feels about Tempered Basswood body wings on this bass - or his Tempered Swamp Ash body / Tempered Maple neck bolt-on build.

More NAMM stuff.”
 

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#8,424
iriegnome said:
Another question for the Moddy fam... I want to change the Bart pickup out of my Vertex. Anyone have any drop in suggestions? EMG HZ? Seymour Duncan SSB-4B? Nordstrand Dual Coil?
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BadWithNames said:
Quick question for anyone who can compare: how does the B string on a FU/FB 5 compare to the B on a Q5?

I’m kind of looking for a 5-string Modulus to pair with my Quantum 4, and there’s some “very low” priced FU/FB 5s for sale right now. I’ve heard that a 35in scale is much better for the B, though.
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IME tit for tat. Both equally excellent. I have a 97 FB4 and may consider a Q5 in the future (backwards of you). I have owned a Q6 and a FB5 in the past and all have been tremendous instruments.
 
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#8,426
FB837C5F-210C-46B4-B211-EED41F24D0AB.jpeg
Loving this Genesis I just received. I’ve played it at 2 rehearsals this week (with both of my bands) and it’s phenomenal. Very fast attack with a clear deep/wide sound that just envelops the room and mix. I also own a ‘90 Q5 that I love...with the exception of the narrower string spacing. I’m always on the lookout for a 19mm Q5 for this reason.
 
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#8,428
phillipkregg said:
These look amazing!

Surprised I'm not hearing more about these basses on here. I only knew because a friend who was at NAMM told me about them.

It would take a lot to steer me away from Sadowsky, but these GJ5s sure do hit the spot visually.
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Yeah, Modulus is in an odd spot since they’re only sold at Planet Bass, and they don’t seem like they do a ton of advertising. I also think they’re priced way too high, but ...
 
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#8,429
chaosmic said:
View attachment 2900340
Loving this Genesis I just received. I’ve played it at 2 rehearsals this week (with both of my bands) and it’s phenomenal. Very fast attack with a clear deep/wide sound that just envelops the room and mix. I also own a ‘90 Q5 that I love...with the exception of the narrower string spacing. I’m always on the lookout for a 19mm Q5 for this reason.
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I would prefer 19mm spacing but I have learned to use the 17mm on my Q6. I really love wide spacing. Most of my other basses are 20mm, 19mm and I have a 7 string that is 18mm. I even found the 21mm Q5 Wide very playable! I would love to have one one day. Almost felt like and upright string spacing..lol
 
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#8,432
here's a 'science-y' question for those in the know...

what would you use to patch up holes in the kld/graphite/resin portion of a modulus?

contemplating swapping bridges on my tbx which means filling in the original screw holes from the original bridge.

epoxy? something else? inquiring minds'd like to know... thanks! :)
 
#8,433
I'd use epoxy with black pigment additive.

I don't have a ton of experience with this, but I've done some stuff with West System 105 resin/207 hardener and it sets up about as hard as you could want; nearly glass-like, BUT I would give it two weeks to make sure it's absolutely, positively, fully cured before sanding it level and buffing it. It will sand and buff well after 24 hours, and you'll see some folks doing the fretless epoxy-coat thing going at it that soon, but I've found that it can still lose a little volume beyond that time. So if you're filling a hole by slightly over-filling and sanding back to flush, it can leave you with a tiny little bit of a divot instead of a perfectly flush fill after some time passes. Best to wait.

West System makes a black pigment for their stuff, but I saw Invalid Link Removed where they found that a lot of epoxy pigments will end up more gray-ish if you do any sand/buffing. Best results were had using One-Shot brand sign lettering enamel as pigment. This is paint that professional sign painters use, stuff that can bake in the sun for decades without fading.
 
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#8,434
BruceWane said:
I'd use epoxy with black pigment additive.

I don't have a ton of experience with this, but I've done some stuff with West System 105 resin/207 hardener and it sets up about as hard as you could want; nearly glass-like, BUT I would give it two weeks to make sure it's absolutely, positively, fully cured before sanding it level and buffing it. It will sand and buff well after 24 hours, and you'll see some folks doing the fretless epoxy-coat thing going at it that soon, but I've found that it can still lose a little volume beyond that time. So if you're filling a hole by slightly over-filling and sanding back to flush, it can leave you with a tiny little bit of a divot instead of a perfectly flush fill after some time passes. Best to wait.

West System makes a black pigment for their stuff, but I saw Invalid Link Removed where they found that a lot of epoxy pigments will end up more gray-ish if you do any sand/buffing. Best results were had using One-Shot brand sign lettering enamel as pigment. This is paint that professional sign painters use, stuff that can bake in the sun for decades without fading.
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thanks!

guess color-matching is a non-issue since the epoxy-filled holes will be hidden beneath the new bridge.

guess i'm just looking for the best 'patch' to fill up the screw holes.

if it was wood, would just use a dowel, glue, and putty. since the kld/graphite portion of the neck-thru is involved, just wanted to make sure i use the right material the first time...
 
#8,437
StuFordBass said:
On that note, it just occurred to me that maybe the only other modulus bass I have ever played in my life was one of Oteil's. It was a Q6 that he had given to a killer player from North Carolina named Taylor Lee, who lived down the hall from me freshman year. Maybe if I keep at it, I can get my hands on the Modulii of Phil and Schools!
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I met Taylor at a Jeff Sipe Trio gig he was playing on. One of the must humble bassists ever. He was willing to share a lot of knowledge with me, including the story of how he got his Mod. At the time, he was having his Fodera built by the team in NY. Taylor also played a Squier CV P on the gig and slayed with it. Hands down, probably one of the best bassists I've ever seen live, and I think he is my age. If I recall correctly, he took lessons from Steve Bailey when he was younger. He offered to give me lessons way back then. I should probably see if he's still available...
 
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#8,438
carsbybigd said:
Any good epoxy will do , black pigment is a +, if you have access to any kind of glass or carbon , cut up a small amount and mix it in as well . Do you have access to the back side of the hole ?
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don't think so. i'm assuming there's a block of wood under the area where the bridge meets graphite/kld.

will double check when i look at it with the pickups removed.
 
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