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My cab and amp stink, how can i remove it?

Ofactory receptor stimulation is discussed here:

Invalid Link Removed

According to the paper:

Vertebrate olfactory receptor neurons (ORNs) are stimulated in a rhythmic manner in vivo, driven by delivery of odorants to the nasal cavity carried by the inhaled air, making olfaction a sense where animals can control the frequency of stimulus delivery. How ORNs encode repeated stimulation at resting, low breathing frequencies and at increased sniffing frequencies is not known, nor is it known if the olfactory transduction cascade is accurate and fast enough to follow high frequency stimulation. We investigated mouse olfactory responses to stimulus frequencies mimicking odorant exposure during low (2 Hz) and high (5 Hz) frequency sniffing. ORNs reliably follow low frequency stimulations with high fidelity by generating bursts of action potentials at each stimulation at intermediate odorant concentrations, but fail to do so at high odorant concentrations. Higher stimulus frequencies across all odorant concentrations reduced the likelihood of action potential generation, increased the latency of response, and decreased the reliability of encoding the onset of stimulation. Thus an increase in stimulus frequency degrades and at high odorant concentrations entirely prevents action potential generation in individual ORNs, causing reduced signalling to the olfactory bulb. These results demonstrate that ORNs do not simply relay timing and concentration of an odorous stimulus, but also process and modulate the stimulus in a frequency-dependent manner which is controlled by the chosen sniffing rate.


In other words, the fidelity of a smell is sniff dependent. It helps to hold your nose. Back to square one for a solution.



Brought to you by funding provided to the NIH.
 
I start by cleaning inside the chassis with an electronics cleaner such as Safety Wash. Q-tips, cotton makeup removing pads, and pipe cleaners soaked in the wash will clean organic smells, including nicotine. It’s amazing how yellow the inside of some amps can get due to smoke and other things.

93E85D7D-EB84-4848-96F1-0CA69F70488E.jpeg



For the cabinet, start with mild soap and warm water. Be careful, water can get into seams in vinyl covering and release the adhesive. It depends on the glue that the manufacturer used. As mentioned, a gritty Borax solution can help with smells. There are also products that work on pet smells. They are available from pet stores. I’ve used Odormute.

It takes time and patients. What you don’t want is the original smell with a perfume on top. If all else fails, you can recover the cabinet.
 
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Ofactory receptor stimulation is discussed here:

Invalid Link Removed

According to the paper:

Vertebrate olfactory receptor neurons (ORNs) are stimulated in a rhythmic manner in vivo, driven by delivery of odorants to the nasal cavity carried by the inhaled air, making olfaction a sense where animals can control the frequency of stimulus delivery. How ORNs encode repeated stimulation at resting, low breathing frequencies and at increased sniffing frequencies is not known, nor is it known if the olfactory transduction cascade is accurate and fast enough to follow high frequency stimulation. We investigated mouse olfactory responses to stimulus frequencies mimicking odorant exposure during low (2 Hz) and high (5 Hz) frequency sniffing. ORNs reliably follow low frequency stimulations with high fidelity by generating bursts of action potentials at each stimulation at intermediate odorant concentrations, but fail to do so at high odorant concentrations. Higher stimulus frequencies across all odorant concentrations reduced the likelihood of action potential generation, increased the latency of response, and decreased the reliability of encoding the onset of stimulation. Thus an increase in stimulus frequency degrades and at high odorant concentrations entirely prevents action potential generation in individual ORNs, causing reduced signalling to the olfactory bulb. These results demonstrate that ORNs do not simply relay timing and concentration of an odorous stimulus, but also process and modulate the stimulus in a frequency-dependent manner which is controlled by the chosen sniffing rate.


In other words, the fidelity of a smell is sniff dependent. It helps to hold your nose. Back to square one for a solution.



Brought to you by funding provided to the NIH.


Sooo, what you are seminating is that a dry cleaner bag over the head can block them Ornie bulb thangs...

:bag:
 
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Cleaning an amp can be theraputic.

It can also be very enlightening in more ways than one....

I have a cable here at the shop with gators on the ends and a very high Ω resister in the middle covered in heat shrink...
It hangs within reach on my bench light. Comes in handy for preventing that "enlightening" part...

Has to do with that 63.2% stuff.... 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th usually ain't the problem. It's that first one that's really the bitch...

Them Notferfingerpoken soup cans can light you up....
 
I start by cleaning inside the chassis with an electronics cleaner such as Safety Wash. Q-tips, cotton makeup removing pads, and pipe cleaners soaked in the wash will clean organic smells, including nicotine. It’s amazing how yellow the inside of some amps can get due to smoke and other things.

View attachment 3040297


For the cabinet, start with mild soap and warm water. Be careful, water can get into seams in vinyl covering and release the adhesive. It depends on the glue that the manufacturer used. As mentioned, a gritty Borax solution can help with smells. There are also products that work on pet smells. They are available from pet stores. I’ve used Odormute.

It takes time and patients. What you don’t want is the original smell with a perfume on top. If all else fails, you can recover the cabinet.

More info on the MG Chemicals electronic cleaner:

4050 - Safety Wash
Safety Wash™ is a liquid all-purpose electronics cleaner made from high purity ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, and a touch of ethyl acetate. It is safe on plastics and effectively dissolves oils, inks, and flux residues.

Consumer Product VOC Dilution Requirements
Residential or institutional users in California and other states (IL, IN, MI, OH, CT, DE, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT, VA, DC, UT) with similar 75% VOC limits on Electronic Cleaners must dilute the product 3:1 with water or acetone prior to use.

Catalog Number Sizes Available Description
4050-1L 1 Litre (33oz) Liquid
4050-4L 4 Litres (1 gallon) Liquid
4050-20L 20 Litres (5 galons) Liquid

Features Applications Removes:
  • Plastic Safe
  • Good cleaning strength
  • Moderate evaporation rate
  • Zero residue
  • CARB (California Air Resources Board) compliant when diluted 25%*
  • * Dilute with dionized water or acetone (don't use acetone to keep plastics safe)
  • * Use in ventilated area if not diluted with dionized water
  • De-energized electronics components and equipment
  • Printed circuit boards
  • Fiber Optic connectors
  • Electrical assemblies
  • Relays
  • Semi-conductors
  • Cold dip and rinsing
  • Oils
  • Rosin and non-rosin Flux residues
  • Ink
  • Organic contaminants
 
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More info on the MG Chemicals electronic cleaner:

4050 - Safety Wash
Safety Wash™ is a liquid all-purpose electronics cleaner made from high purity ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, and a touch of ethyl acetate. It is safe on plastics and effectively dissolves oils, inks, and flux residues.

Consumer Product VOC Dilution Requirements
Residential or institutional users in California and other states (IL, IN, MI, OH, CT, DE, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT, VA, DC, UT) with similar 75% VOC limits on Electronic Cleaners must dilute the product 3:1 with water or acetone prior to use.

Catalog Number Sizes Available Description
4050-1L 1 Litre (33oz) Liquid
4050-4L 4 Litres (1 gallon) Liquid
4050-20L 20 Litres (5 galons) Liquid

Features Applications Removes:
  • Plastic Safe
  • Good cleaning strength
  • Moderate evaporation rate
  • Zero residue
  • CARB (California Air Resources Board) compliant when diluted 25%*
  • * Dilute with dionized water or acetone (don't use acetone to keep plastics safe)
  • * Use in ventilated area if not diluted with dionized water
  • De-energized electronics components and equipment
  • Printed circuit boards
  • Fiber Optic connectors
  • Electrical assemblies
  • Relays
  • Semi-conductors
  • Cold dip and rinsing
  • Oils
  • Rosin and non-rosin Flux residues
  • Ink
  • Organic contaminants

Do not use this stuff on anything that has pots, switches or relays as there are lubricants that you don't want washed away, inhibited or to migrate.
 
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Note that the parts used by Tektronics are generally quite different than those used in MI equipment manufacture. Especially pots, switches and relays.

Also, industry uses de-ionized water to eliminate minerals present in normal water as the smaller spacing and modern lead seals benefit from reducing the mineral contamination. This is all standard PCB assembly techniques.
 
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Reactions: Stumbo
Consumer Product VOC Dilution Requirements
Residential or institutional users in California and other states (IL, IN, MI, OH, CT, DE, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT, VA, DC, UT) with similar 75% VOC limits on Electronic Cleaners must dilute the product 3:1 with water or acetone prior to use.

There’s a mistake in their document.

Diluting with water to reduce VOC’s is understandable. Diluting with acetone to reduce VOC is nuts. Acetone is highly volatile and the fumes are more dangerous than the alcohols in the formulation. In addition, acetone can harm components.

With any electronics cleaner, it is important to follow the directions. One reason why the liquid is better to use than the sprays is that you can avoid getting it into pots, switches, and relays. Spot test component marking such as resistor color bands. Most products are resistant to these solvents.

I see the value of a cleaner like this is cleaning boards and components that are covered with dirt, smoke deposits, old flux, and buildup of sprays that techs use to ruin amps. Some of these contaminants can be conductive and affect the performance of the amps.

People restoring some military equipment literally hose them off. This sounds counterintuitive, especially since they are not using deionized and distilled water, but it doesn’t seem to harm the equipment. Not something that I would do to an amp.
 
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People restoring some military equipment literally hose them off. This sounds counterintuitive, especially since they are not using deionized and distilled water, but it doesn’t seem to harm the equipment. Not something that I would do to an amp.
It does harm the equipment, which is why all mil spec PCB processing requires a DI water rinse unless using a solvent based system.