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Nash vs Vintage P

#61
Haven’t played a vintage, but I’ve played a few Nash basses in the past, owned a JB63 and still own a PB63. No idea why I sold the JB since it played like a dream and sounded great. The PB63 has a great feeling neck. Mine had the Dimarzio pickup which I swapped for a Duncan Steve Harris model. The PB63 has lasted the longest in my collection. I can’t offer you a comparison but I can tell you I’m a happy owner of what I have.
 
#62
If your bank account can stand it , maybe also take a look at Olinto basses . Got to play one when I was in NY from the shop where they are made and they are great basses . As much as I like Nash , I might have to go with Olinto $$$$$$$$ .
 
#63
KellyC said:
I am a boutique P bass chaser, and my advice would be to be very picky in selecting a vintage style pbass because the heel access truss rod is a pain to deal with if the neck isn't rock solid.
Click to expand...

Sometimes I think I should make a demonstration video.

It takes me more time to confirm that four strings are seated back exactly where they belong on threaded bridge saddles (Fender vintage style) while re-tensioning them and then re-tuning.
 
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#65
You know what OP, the more Im reading the responses in the thread the more I think that you’d enjoy a parts build. You can get REALLY dang close with a lot of stuff out there these days.

Im doing a 65 jazz bass build, basing it off of previous real 65’s I’ve had using parts such as a musikraft neck, vintage hardware etc found on reverb. Going with mjt as finisher. I’ll post a thread on how it turns out.

After everything I should be set back about $1800-1900, and thats WITH a spitfire guard. Less than an american reissue, yet you can get closer to the real thing than the reissues are.
 
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#66
Grinderman said:
Sometimes I think I should make a demonstration video.

It takes me more time to confirm that four strings are seated back exactly where they belong on threaded bridge saddles (Fender vintage style) while re-tensioning them and then re-tuning.
Click to expand...
You really should. I am so afraid that I'm going to strip out a neck bolt tap on a $3k+ bass that I really don't want to deal with the stress of it all :cautious:.
 
#67
I have nearly pulled the trigger on a light relic Nash build several times after hearing such great reports about their necks, but Nash’s ‘belt sander’ relics look horrendous and I wonder what a final order would look like on delivery. Some of their relic work looks completely phoned in. Not a fan of the Microsoft Word headstock logo either.

I think keeping an eye open for a good secondhand CS is the way to go - there a few out there for less than $3k. Still more money out the door than for a new Nash but I think Fender’s relic work is generally better (whether light, medium or heavy relic).
 
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#68
KellyC said:
I am a boutique P bass chaser, and my advice would be to be very picky in selecting a vintage style pbass because the heel access truss rod is a pain to deal with if the neck isn't rock solid.
Click to expand...

Grinderman said:
Sometimes I think I should make a demonstration video.

It takes me more time to confirm that four strings are seated back exactly where they belong on threaded bridge saddles (Fender vintage style) while re-tensioning them and then re-tuning.
Click to expand...

Yep. Instructions from Fender back in their stone age:
Fender truss rod adjustment instructions.jpeg


IMG_20240305_185255.jpg


It's true, particularly with so many copies and model variations, that some don't align correctly but on probably 90% the truss rods can be adjusted without removing or loosening the neck.
 
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#70
This may sound like a crazy choice, but the Yamaha Attitude Limited has the same neck profile as a 1951 PBass. That’s how Billy Sheehan spec’ed it. And when you solo the DiMarzio split-coil, it sounds like the best PBass you’ve ever played.

I’ve had maybe a dozen 1st generation Attitude Limiteds. They’re very consistent with first-rate fit and finish. The neck joint is rock solid. They feel perfect if, like me, you prefer the big neck of a ‘50s Precision.

The only downside (for me) is that they look very “modern” in a ‘90s kind of way. So, I sent one of mine to MJT to be refinished in aged shell pink with a moderate relic job.

IMG_1518.jpeg
IMG_1522.jpeg
IMG_1520.jpeg
IMG_1524.jpeg
 
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#71
Which brings me to my next point. A PBass is such a classic and simple design, that you could easily put one together.

Pick a one-piece alder or ash body from Warmoth and a big ‘50s neck from any of the suppliers. Stick in the pickup of your choice (I still like Lindy Fralin the best). Then send it off to MJT to be finished in nitro +/- relic treatment. They can also assemble it, level/finish the frets, and do a setup for you.
 
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#72
Dynacord said:
Yep. Instructions from Fender back in their stone age:
View attachment 5375557

View attachment 5375558

It's true, particularly with so many copies and model variations, that some don't align correctly but on probably 90% the truss rods can be adjusted without removing or loosening the neck.
Click to expand...

Unless the neck needs to fully come off due to a non-routine issue, I always loosen strings, partly back out the neck screws (not remove), and tilt the neck to adjust the truss rod.

No big deal... the neck screws, the tilt, and putting that all back takes about 60 seconds with a clutched electric screwdriver with the correct Phillips tip.

Zip, zip, zip, zip. Tilt.
 
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#75
KellyC said:
You really should. I am so afraid that I'm going to strip out a neck bolt tap on a $3k+ bass that I really don't want to deal with the stress of it all :cautious:.
Click to expand...

KellyC said:
No, I'm very comfortable adjusting the truss rod. It's loosening and re-tightening the neck bolts that gives me anxiety. My Moollon requires the neck bolts to be loosened, and every custom shop I've considered purchasing is the same.
Click to expand...

It takes a whole lot of careless loosening and tightening of neck screws to do that and even if that does happen it's the easiest thing to fix. Unless an ape has radically destroyed the screw holes in the flat butt of the neck, the fix can be completely invisible. If the holes are extremely damaged it's still most likely--we can't 100% account for all of the damage anyone or everyone might inflict--else an easy repair.

Not maintaining truss rod adjustment for proper neck relief is a much greater long-term risk to the health of any neck than the risk of damaging mounting screw holes.
 
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#76
Grinderman said:
Unless the neck needs to fully come off due to a non-routine issue, I always loosen strings, partly back out the neck screws (not remove), and tilt the neck to adjust the truss rod.

No big deal... the neck screws, the tilt, and putting that all back takes about 60 seconds with a clutched electric screwdriver with the correct Phillips tip.

Zip, zip, zip, zip. Tilt.
Click to expand...

For routine truss rod adjustments I usually just loosen the strings and use a small flathead at an angle. Still, I've encountered some where one either had to remove the guard or tilt the neck.

Have had and worked on plenty of 50's and 60's Fenders and neck screw holes getting stripped has been very rare. Very easy fix, if so.
 
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#77
LanEvo said:
This may sound like a crazy choice, but the Yamaha Attitude Limited has the same neck profile as a 1951 PBass. That’s how Billy Sheehan spec’ed it. And when you solo the DiMarzio split-coil, it sounds like the best PBass you’ve ever played.

I’ve had maybe a dozen 1st generation Attitude Limiteds. They’re very consistent with first-rate fit and finish. The neck joint is rock solid. They feel perfect if, like me, you prefer the big neck of a ‘50s Precision.

The only downside (for me) is that they look very “modern” in a ‘90s kind of way. So, I sent one of mine to MJT to be refinished in aged shell pink with a moderate relic job.

View attachment 5375559 View attachment 5375560 View attachment 5375561 View attachment 5375562
Click to expand...
dc-upright said:
I was not aware of MJT, what a great service!
Click to expand...
MJT has done 3 projects for me and all turned out exactly as I requested.
 
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#78
Dynacord said:
For routine truss rod adjustments I usually just loosen the strings and use a small flathead at an angle. Still, I've encountered some where one either had to remove the guard or tilt the neck.

Have had and worked on plenty of 50's and 60's Fenders and neck screw holes getting stripped has been very rare. Very easy fix, if so.
Click to expand...

I mean, if you can then you can. You'd be luckier than me though. ;)
 
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