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New Avatar Crossovers!!!

#61
Here is a photo of it mounted to the flange I cut from the Foster horn.
I cut the flange right behind it then used a file to open the hole slightly where the Peerless 811647 magnet would fit through. I then used RTV to seal and hold it to the flange. Once dry, I drilled a small pilot hole for the 4 mounting screws (black sheetmetal or wood screws) to further hold it to the flange. I then mounted the unit with the 4 screws from the mount of the Foster horn to the cab. NOTE: I backed the Peerless screws out some so the flange would mount flush, put the 4 flange mounting screws in and tightened. I then tightened the 4 mounting screws for the peerless into the cab also.
 
#63
On a related note. I don't like the sound of tweeters. I usually turn them off, but this thread got me to thinking.

Could I bypass the tweeter on my older B210 Delta so that the speakers will get more of the full range and not be cut off around 4khz by the crossover? I know it drops off somewhere after that point anyway but I would like to run the 10's full range without the crossover or the tweeter.

Where and what do I cut? BTW my control plate looks similiar to the pic posted earlier except I do not have a speakon connection.
 
#64
I'm also running the Peerless together with the 4th order high pass filter. The combination works very well, much smoother than stock, really helped turn my Avatar SB112 into a keeper. I've never liked the sound of piezo tweeters, so the idea of retiring one was tempting.

I was really close to sacrificing the horn as well, but made a spacer out of 1/2" MDF instead. The "pizza" tweeter is now serving duty as a pencil holder.
 
#65
I sent Dave an email at Avatar and asked him about the phasing of the tweeter with the new network. He did not have an answer. He told me to try it both ways and go with what sounded better. So there's a chance that the tweeter phase detail dropped between the cracks when Avatar put the new crossover boards in. I have not pulled the grill and speakers to verify where the + and - marks are at on the speakers though.

After talking with Gary about how to identify + and - from the back of the tweeter I concluded I have my 4th order network out of phase with the speakers getting a full range signal. I swapped the tweeter leads and I think the sound was fuller. But who knows... I know I just got done playing an outside gig and for the first time in forever I am very happy with my rig and my sound (Avatar B210 Neo, 10s get full range, stock tweeter with 4th order 3.3 kHz Linkwitz-Riley).

As a side note, the 4th order high pass Linkwitz-Riley has a 180 degree phase shift at the corner frequency.

Dave
 
#67
Petebass said:
Not according to my crossover design software. It's telling me "normal" polarity.
Click to expand...

I simulated the two inductor, two capactior network with an 8-ohm resistor at the output using PSPICE which is a common simulation tool used for circuit design.

I suspect your SW assumes one is using a 4th order hi pass and low pass network. Both networks have the same phase change so the relative phase difference is zero. However at the cross over frequency, both networks have shifted things 180 degrees. So if you remove the low pass network and run the woofers full range, there will be a 180 deg phase shift between the full range woofers and the 4th order tweeter.

Dave
 
#69
Could I bypass the tweeter on my older B210 Delta so that the speakers will get more of the full range and not be cut off around 4khz by the crossover?
Click to expand...

It's not necessary as that model does not have a crossover, it has a 1st order high pass filter for the tweeter that has no effect on the woofer signal.


DeadRBassistNJ said:
So if I'm running the woofers full range and the tweeter on the 4th order high pass is it necessary to reverse the leads on the tweeter? The black w/white stripe is the positive lead right?
Click to expand...

Maybe, maybe not. Try it both ways, you may not hear any difference. One of the advantages to a 4th order slope is that there's not much driver overlap. The tweeter isn't going to extend down into the woofers range by much, and since the woofers are rolling off acoustically even without an LP section they won't do much to the tweeter signal, quite possibly not enough to be audible. Even if the outputs of the two drivers is 180 out of phase you can't hear it unless the outputs overlap each other enough to affect each other and create a response hole. With a 2nd order crossover that situation is pretty much assured.
 
#72
billfitzmaurice said:
A clean installation, but I don't suggest trashing Foster tweets to do this, as you can buy ABS sheets that would do the job. Another cool trick is to make bezels out of transparent acrylic sheet painted black on the reverse side.
Click to expand...


Your absolutely right Bill. I contemplated doing just that with a clear sheet of ABS that I had. Should have taken the time to do just that. Also, you are very correct about the atributes of the Peerless being due to the lower output. I can hear the distortion when I get my ear close to it but far away it is nice sounding. I did find that a 4.7-6.8mfd single cap worked best for the Peerless as it provided more volume than the 4th order high pass filter. Funny, the distortion level appeared to be the same with the single cap or the 4th order but you got more volume vs. distortion (SlN ratio) with the single cap.
 
#75
I wouldn't go to extreme lengths to try and eliminate all noise and distortion from the tweet. If you have a traditional bass amp you'll never get it dead quiet, as instrument amps just aren't built to that high a standard. Now if you were to hook it up to a high quality power amp like a QSC or Crown you should be able to have one of those wide open (with no input) and have it dead quiet. I replaced all the chips in my 3500 and it still required the addition of a noise gate to shut the thing up when muted. But with my PA that I drive with Carvers you can't tell if it's on even with your ear jammed into a tweeter.
 

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