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New Bass. (16 Pics)

#25
Overflow said:
Only thing I dislike about the bass is the fact you need to unbolt the neck to adjust the truss rod.
Click to expand...

I might be all wrong about this on your bass, but on my Jazz Bass with the heel adjustment, my tech just cut a small semicircular hole out of the pickguard. It's just large enough that an adjustment can be made without removing the neck or the pickguard...
 
#27
Engine207 said:
I might be all wrong about this on your bass, but on my Jazz Bass with the heel adjustment, my tech just cut a small semicircular hole out of the pickguard. It's just large enough that an adjustment can be made without removing the neck or the pickguard...
Click to expand...

Overflow

Very nice bass :) and a great choice BTW. Now about the neck adjustment thing. It's a pain to have to bevel those aluminum PG's to gain access for adjustments.


I've played P's forever and here's how I can do minor adjustments "without" having to remove the neck, PG, or even beveling the PG for that matter.

I find a good quality flat blade screwdriver and then file the edges to make the flat blade narrower where I can slip it in the slot and get about a 1/4 turn at a time without hitting the PG. Sometimes I cut the length back somewhat so the blade end is thicker and just fits snugly in the slot. No play that way and you won't slip or mar up the slot. I go with a slight angle on the screwdriver and it works just fine. I always loosen the strings for neck adjustments so the nut turns easily.

If I have a Fender bass with a vintage adjustment screw at the heel, and it's one of those necks that I need to adjust constantly, there's another way I do it.

I shim up the back of the neck pocket "slightly" to raise the end of the neck up and gain more access to the nut using the above mentioned modified screwdriver. For me the shim is usually about as thick as a business card or just a little less and as wide as the pocket and runs from the back of the neck pocket to just shy of the two back neck screws.

I use brass shim material that comes in various thicknesses that you can get at most model or craft stores.

You will have to do a complete setup after you shim because you're changing the neck angle somewhat. It's really not a big deal. If you don't feel comfortable doing your own setups, any competent shop can do it for you.

Keep Low :bassist:
 
#28
I ordered this model P bass from MF a few months ago. Mine's black and looks better than the pics on Fender's website. Great wood and flawless build. It's a real player too. All the old-school P-bass mojo you need at a reasonable price. I did replace the tuning machines with 3 Hipshot HB3's and a BT3 extender key on the low E. These machines are a direct replacement for this bass, but they're much smoother and lighter. I now have the extended range and no neck dive. Bonus. Did my first recording session with this bass the other day, it sits in the mix perfectly. I'm loving mine, enjoy yours.
 
#29
Grissle said:
"Very classy, although I'd personally prefer a Satin finish on the neck. Enjoy!"

Luckily a satin finish is just a little steel wool or scotch brite pad and few seconds of work!
Click to expand...

What exactly is a satin finish?

60bass said:
Overflow

Very nice bass :) and a great choice BTW. Now about the neck adjustment thing. It's a pain to have to bevel those aluminum PG's to gain access for adjustments.


I've played P's forever and here's how I can do minor adjustments "without" having to remove the neck, PG, or even beveling the PG for that matter.

I find a good quality flat blade screwdriver and then file the edges to make the flat blade narrower where I can slip it in the slot and get about a 1/4 turn at a time without hitting the PG. Sometimes I cut the length back somewhat so the blade end is thicker and just fits snugly in the slot. No play that way and you won't slip or mar up the slot. I go with a slight angle on the screwdriver and it works just fine. I always loosen the strings for neck adjustments so the nut turns easily.

If I have a Fender bass with a vintage adjustment screw at the heel, and it's one of those necks that I need to adjust constantly, there's another way I do it.

I shim up the back of the neck pocket "slightly" to raise the end of the neck up and gain more access to the nut using the above mentioned modified screwdriver. For me the shim is usually about as thick as a business card or just a little less and as wide as the pocket and runs from the back of the neck pocket to just shy of the two back neck screws.

I use brass shim material that comes in various thicknesses that you can get at most model or craft stores.

You will have to do a complete setup after you shim because you're changing the neck angle somewhat. It's really not a big deal. If you don't feel comfortable doing your own setups, any competent shop can do it for you.

Keep Low :bassist:
Click to expand...

That's a great idea, thanks! I guess setups shouldn't be too hard, but I'd be more comfortable giving it to a shop, at least until there are a few dings on this thing. :)
 

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