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Double Bass NEW Euphonic Audio iAMP Doubler

#423
the doubler looks great. I just got a pair of vl108's(thanks Peter) and the iamp 800 is kinda big sitt'in on top of those speakers. Looks like the tower could fall over. I think a doubler would sit a little better than the iamp 800. Although i'm looking for a acme b2 to pair with the vl108's for electric gigs. The iamp would sit a little better with that stack. Having both the doubler and the iamp 800 wouldnt be a bad idea either.
 
#424
bass dan said:
the doubler looks great. I just got a pair of vl108's(thanks Peter) and the iamp 800 is kinda big sitt'in on top of those speakers. Looks like the tower could fall over. I think a doubler would sit a little better than the iamp 800. Although i'm looking for a acme b2 to pair with the vl108's for electric gigs. The iamp would sit a little better with that stack. Having both the doubler and the iamp 800 wouldnt be a bad idea either.
Click to expand...

I sold my iAmp800 to get the Doubler and couldn't be happier.

They sound different though, so don't go doing anything rash until you get a chance to hear them for yourself.
 
#425
bass dan said:
the doubler looks great. I just got a pair of vl108's(thanks Peter) and the iamp 800 is kinda big sitt'in on top of those speakers. Looks like the tower could fall over. I think a doubler would sit a little better than the iamp 800. Although i'm looking for a acme b2 to pair with the vl108's for electric gigs. The iamp would sit a little better with that stack. Having both the doubler and the iamp 800 wouldnt be a bad idea either.
Click to expand...

Good luck with them, I really enjoyed using those cabs with the doubler..
 
#426
So I got my Doubler and am absolutely delighted with it; the only question I have though is about setting the input gain structure properly.

Is it better to set the gain on the trim pot wide open and then adjust the silver gain knob on the front wherever it seems best, or should I reduce the trim pot and use the silver knob as the main control, aiming for a noon position as recommended by EA, or does it even make a difference?

Also, just how much should the yellow LEDs be lighting up? Should they barely flicker when I hit a hard note, or is it okay for them to be pulsing to the beat as I play each note? Obviously, what I really need to avoid is overloading the input stage when I hit a note hard, but apart from that does it matter how much the LEDs are lighting up?

Cheers

Gareth
 
#431
Mike Dimin said:
Once you're there than you can adjust the trim pot accordingly. Please note that the trip pot will trim the signal as you turn it clockwise. To get more volume turn it counterclockwise
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, so set the gain wth the silver knob using the LED as a guide and then use the trim pot if more volume needed?

Two other things occured to me; is it possible to use headphones with the amp in the effects/tuner or di out, and can it be used with no speaker load present?

Sorry of these seem like banal questions; just want to make sure I get it right!
 
#433
Gareth
I was curious about the same thing. I took a passive bass with moderate output and turned the trimpot all the way counter-clockwise and set the master very low. With the gain knob at the point where the led is flashing with every note there is a fair amount of preamp overload present. Backing it off to the point where it flashes occasionally while playing at normal levels with a moderate flash on accented notes produces a clean overall signal. Proper gain structure is as important to the overall quality of an audio signal as well as for avoiding overload. Since the trimpot is obviously placed prior to the gain control in the circuit I have chosen the midpoint as my default setting (this was the factory default setting - the slot in the trimpot is straight up and down while referenced from the front panel). At this level with a P Bass I have the gain at 12 o'clock, a J Bass is at 1 o'clock and a Spector with 18 volt electronics it is at 10 o'clock. Unless you are always running a very high-output bass (ie. 18 volt pre or Kubicki X Factor I would set it at the default and use the gain in the 10 to 2 range. I also noticed that since the circuit is analog the overdrive is not harsh or brash. Some might even like to add a little "hair" from the preamp (although I wouldn't qualify it as "tube-like " warmth).
Just my two cents worth.
What have you other slab players found?
BTW: While I do own an upright I mainly will use this for AE and slab bass as the upright oriented features apply equally well to my big-bodied Tacoma Thunderchief
.
 
#435
I've got the newer micro. I thought you were supposed to set the trim pots to where the channel gain was a noon with minimal to no blinking. I've recorded to hear the DI and noticed some clip/noise when the lights flicker so I backed them off to only lighting up if I hit a note hard hard hard. In other words, they don't blink much if at all for me. If this is incorrect I'd love to know but my rig sounds good for DB and electric.
 
#436
Thanks, Mike and Stu Bass, for the comments.

My basses are all active:

Wal (9v with two mags)
Veillette (18v mag and piezo) - main bass
Brook ABG (9v piezo)
Aria EUB (9v mag and piezo)

I'll see where I need to set the trimpot to get me to around noon on the gain control with LED flashes as suggested.

Cheers all

Gareth
 
#437
Yes. clockwise is enabling the trim circuit = trimming the input. Turning it CCW would minimize the reduction = maximum gain before the gain control knob.
You are currently at minimum gain coming in to the gain control itself.
It is best to have a strong yet not overdriven level ai each gain stage (trimpot - gain control - eq - master). This will provide a fuller, warmer and more dynamic tone.
As a highly regarded Audio Engineer once told me "It's all about setting proper gain structure, then I twist knobs until it sounds good"
 

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