My understanding is that as long as you change them out in pairs and adjust the bias for each pair the amp is happy.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
New Traynor YBA 100!!
- Thread starter qwench
- Start date
Oddly enough, the EL34s also brought down the overall level, so for the 1 gig I did, I had to have the master dimed and the gain at Noon.
Honestly, this is my first all tube head.
I figured as long as I swapped them out in pairs, it'd be all right.
I'm putting the 6L6s back in anyway as I like that tone better, but it was a fun experiment.
I wonder if all four being ELs might bring the level back up to normal.
Anyway, I had a big problem haha. Hearing the gain and master cranked independently made me love both sounds & naturally I'll go ahead & assume that the ultimate setup would be to have TWO of em, one with the gain dimed, one the master. A compressor in the effects loop lets ya have both way up & control the overall volume from the compressor, pretty mean.
I'm sure this was thought of a long, long time ago ))
Anyway, I had a big problem haha. Hearing the gain and master cranked independently made me love both sounds & naturally I'll go ahead & assume that the ultimate setup would be to have TWO of em, one with the gain dimed, one the master. A compressor in the effects loop lets ya have both way up & control the overall volume from the compressor, pretty mean.
I'm sure this was thought of a long, long time ago ))
Finally - 1st Public appearance of my YBA100 Sunday.
Made in Canada; the amp, the acoustic guitars, and the artist!
(scattered showers moved us inside. Nice and cool, so I brought the Traynor and the '64 P)
Everybody was please with the tone!
Made in Canada; the amp, the acoustic guitars, and the artist!
(scattered showers moved us inside. Nice and cool, so I brought the Traynor and the '64 P)
Everybody was please with the tone!
Ahhh! Just got one. I needed it as much as I need a hole in the head… but it’s quite interesting how my brain find a good reason for a GAS purchase:
Last year, I used an YGL-3A MKIII as an all purpose amp at the school where I teach (with dedicated bass cab). I used it for keys, guitar and bass.
Now, I’ve found during summer break that the sound of some electric piano sample libraries (Rhodes, Wurly) were wonderful reamped through the YGL-3. Real reverb and tremolo adds some weight to the sound. Add to this that the YGL-3 combo, even emptied from OEM speakers, is quite a beast to lug around!
So, I was « absolutely » in need for something to replace the old beast. Enter the YBA-100. I’m sure it’ll do fine with a bass and a guitar (clean) through the two inputs (guess it’s possible to use the 0dB and -6dB at the same time?). Obviously, I won’t be able to run keys, guitar and bass at the same time but I’ll put the keys through the classroom Yorkville PA.
Still sitting in my home studio waiting for a test tomorrow or this week-end.
Last year, I used an YGL-3A MKIII as an all purpose amp at the school where I teach (with dedicated bass cab). I used it for keys, guitar and bass.
Now, I’ve found during summer break that the sound of some electric piano sample libraries (Rhodes, Wurly) were wonderful reamped through the YGL-3. Real reverb and tremolo adds some weight to the sound. Add to this that the YGL-3 combo, even emptied from OEM speakers, is quite a beast to lug around!
So, I was « absolutely » in need for something to replace the old beast. Enter the YBA-100. I’m sure it’ll do fine with a bass and a guitar (clean) through the two inputs (guess it’s possible to use the 0dB and -6dB at the same time?). Obviously, I won’t be able to run keys, guitar and bass at the same time but I’ll put the keys through the classroom Yorkville PA.
Still sitting in my home studio waiting for a test tomorrow or this week-end.
Very nice...what is this strange looking place you are playing in?Finally - 1st Public appearance of my YBA100 Sunday.
Made in Canada; the amp, the acoustic guitars, and the artist!
(scattered showers moved us inside. Nice and cool, so I brought the Traynor and the '64 P)
Everybody was please with the tone!
View attachment 4364115
Well, first impressions:
- my V4 and my YBA-3 are indeed a bit louder. Tested with master dimed and gain at 5. Over this, it’s a bit too much on the overdrive level (for my taste, depending on the bass used). However, it’s hard to really compare as the two old beasts don’t have master volumes. Not really a problem anyway as I won’t need to push it at this level in my normal playing…
- it switched in protection mode a couple of times. Once or twice only on one side and a few other times on the two pairs! A bit of tweaking with the bias level and it seems fine for now. Adding to much bass or cranking insane levels looked to trigger the protection circuit. It is set at 4 ohms with my 4 ohms cab BTW so it’s not a mismatch situation. I’ve simply adjusted the bias pots to slightly illuminates the blue (low) led. When running hard, the amber leds light up briefly on certain passages. Kind of normal as I’ve read. If the situation happens again (protection kicking), I’ll maybe ask for a replacement quad from Traynor. I also have a spare 6L6GC quad laying around and even a good used quad of EL34’s in case. Looks like the protection circuit is quite sensitive and (maybe) that the provided quad is quietly stabilizing after first uses?
- great sound and range of tones and colors available for my four tested basses: Gretsch G2220, Squier VM Jazz, Squier VM Fretless Jazz and Squier Precision ‘51.
To conclude, the only thing I should monitor is the bias and the quad of power tubes…
Patrice
- my V4 and my YBA-3 are indeed a bit louder. Tested with master dimed and gain at 5. Over this, it’s a bit too much on the overdrive level (for my taste, depending on the bass used). However, it’s hard to really compare as the two old beasts don’t have master volumes. Not really a problem anyway as I won’t need to push it at this level in my normal playing…
- it switched in protection mode a couple of times. Once or twice only on one side and a few other times on the two pairs! A bit of tweaking with the bias level and it seems fine for now. Adding to much bass or cranking insane levels looked to trigger the protection circuit. It is set at 4 ohms with my 4 ohms cab BTW so it’s not a mismatch situation. I’ve simply adjusted the bias pots to slightly illuminates the blue (low) led. When running hard, the amber leds light up briefly on certain passages. Kind of normal as I’ve read. If the situation happens again (protection kicking), I’ll maybe ask for a replacement quad from Traynor. I also have a spare 6L6GC quad laying around and even a good used quad of EL34’s in case. Looks like the protection circuit is quite sensitive and (maybe) that the provided quad is quietly stabilizing after first uses?
- great sound and range of tones and colors available for my four tested basses: Gretsch G2220, Squier VM Jazz, Squier VM Fretless Jazz and Squier Precision ‘51.
To conclude, the only thing I should monitor is the bias and the quad of power tubes…
Patrice
Paging @RoadRanger :
You mentioned IC’s in the phase inverter circuit and I can see them on the YBA300 schematic. The service manual has only the YBA300 schematics (one is Pre/PI/FX/DI and the other contains power section only).
As a lot of people already mentioned that the preamp of the 100 was the same as the 300, I guess it also includes IC’s in the PI too? What is their purpose in the YBA100? I understand having IC’s for bias circuit, DI and FX loop but not sure about what they are doing in the PI?
Opened mine to lightly clean the power tube sockets (in case it helps for protection kicking - didn’t happened again though) and saw JJ power tubes and Sovtek 12AX7’s. I’ll maybe try a 5751 or a 12AT7 in the first spot just to see if it changes something as the overdrive is already there at 4.5-5 gain level. Or even, swap all 12AX7’s with NOS in my tube stash…
You mentioned IC’s in the phase inverter circuit and I can see them on the YBA300 schematic. The service manual has only the YBA300 schematics (one is Pre/PI/FX/DI and the other contains power section only).
As a lot of people already mentioned that the preamp of the 100 was the same as the 300, I guess it also includes IC’s in the PI too? What is their purpose in the YBA100? I understand having IC’s for bias circuit, DI and FX loop but not sure about what they are doing in the PI?
Opened mine to lightly clean the power tube sockets (in case it helps for protection kicking - didn’t happened again though) and saw JJ power tubes and Sovtek 12AX7’s. I’ll maybe try a 5751 or a 12AT7 in the first spot just to see if it changes something as the overdrive is already there at 4.5-5 gain level. Or even, swap all 12AX7’s with NOS in my tube stash…
Ok, I was the owner of a new YBA100… for two days! I brought it back to Long and McQuade for a full refund today.
Main reason: I’m the opposite of « set it and forget » kind of guy. I like to solder/desolder/play under the hood and, obviously, this amp is not made for it
. All my other amps are tubed and old and only need a few screws removed to gain access to the guts. They are simple point to point designs and easily tweakable/repairable. The only two exceptions are:
- Ampeg V4: #$&*@ old PCB that I find hard to work on, particularly with my lack of, ahem, « finesse » in any handiwork department. I’m best (!) known to have repainted our Ford Focus Wagon (RIP) with paint cans back in 2010 or 2011 to the horror of my GF, the neighbors, my laughing friends and me!! It was horrible, like a military green camouflage car! Fortunately, a big raccoon shortened its breath in 2013, ´cause he didn’t saw the car while we were on the highway… Poor (RIP) raccoon…
- Fender Pro Jr: PCB, had to make a repair on the volume pot and almost destroyed it with my soldering pencil!!
Also, I was wary of the health of the power tubes facing my 7-8 events of circuit protection kicking. L&M or Yorkville would have probably exchanged the tubes easily if needed but I was going to the spiral of sending tubes/putting replacements/waiting/getting tubes. Then, being faced by a new dud quad, rinse and repeat…
**Unless you have the rear of the amp facing you, no way, except the sudden change in tone (overdrive increasing), to know that one pair has gone in protection mode. More obvious when it happens within the two pairs.
If something like this happens to my old boat anchors, I happily put the patient on the operating table and proceed to the butchery with a big smile and Satanic incantations. Yes, that’s me so this amp (very well laid out BTW) is the opposite of this. The nail in the coffin: all PCB’s so I wouldn’t be happy fast forward in 2041 to mess with it once the warranty will be a thing of the past.
To add to my story: it’s indeed less powerful than my other ~100 watts tube amps. The closest candidate in the loudness department would be my Traynor YGL3A MKIII.
And last but not the least, I was annoyed by the discovery that there was too much SS components in the tube path. I’m an OCD tube purist. SS phase inverter, oh no, not for me!
Ah, and let’s not forget that it was pure GAS without any common sense but fortunately, my brain reclaimed it’s loss brain cells yesterday!
However, for future buyers:
- lightweight;
- dead silent, no sign it’s on apart the led…
- you would probably like it as you’re not me
Patrice
Main reason: I’m the opposite of « set it and forget » kind of guy. I like to solder/desolder/play under the hood and, obviously, this amp is not made for it
. All my other amps are tubed and old and only need a few screws removed to gain access to the guts. They are simple point to point designs and easily tweakable/repairable. The only two exceptions are:- Ampeg V4: #$&*@ old PCB that I find hard to work on, particularly with my lack of, ahem, « finesse » in any handiwork department. I’m best (!) known to have repainted our Ford Focus Wagon (RIP) with paint cans back in 2010 or 2011 to the horror of my GF, the neighbors, my laughing friends and me!! It was horrible, like a military green camouflage car! Fortunately, a big raccoon shortened its breath in 2013, ´cause he didn’t saw the car while we were on the highway… Poor (RIP) raccoon…
- Fender Pro Jr: PCB, had to make a repair on the volume pot and almost destroyed it with my soldering pencil!!
Also, I was wary of the health of the power tubes facing my 7-8 events of circuit protection kicking. L&M or Yorkville would have probably exchanged the tubes easily if needed but I was going to the spiral of sending tubes/putting replacements/waiting/getting tubes. Then, being faced by a new dud quad, rinse and repeat…
**Unless you have the rear of the amp facing you, no way, except the sudden change in tone (overdrive increasing), to know that one pair has gone in protection mode. More obvious when it happens within the two pairs
.If something like this happens to my old boat anchors, I happily put the patient on the operating table and proceed to the butchery with a big smile and Satanic incantations. Yes, that’s me so this amp (very well laid out BTW) is the opposite of this. The nail in the coffin: all PCB’s so I wouldn’t be happy fast forward in 2041 to mess with it once the warranty will be a thing of the past.
To add to my story: it’s indeed less powerful than my other ~100 watts tube amps. The closest candidate in the loudness department would be my Traynor YGL3A MKIII.
And last but not the least, I was annoyed by the discovery that there was too much SS components in the tube path. I’m an OCD tube purist
. SS phase inverter, oh no, not for me!Ah, and let’s not forget that it was pure GAS without any common sense but fortunately, my brain reclaimed it’s loss brain cells yesterday!
However, for future buyers:
- lightweight;
- dead silent, no sign it’s on apart the led…
- you would probably like it as you’re not me
Patrice
Last edited:
Question closed anyway… as I’ve already bought another YGL3A MKIII today to replace the YBA100.
And yes, there was probably a bad quad (or unstable at least) in it. Anyways, I’m eager to open my « new » old beast to perform surgery
.
Hi all. So I recently acquired a yba 100. I installed some new TAD 6L6 red base tubes. Went to bias them and was able to turn the pot up CW so the amber LED just turns off, but I am unable to get the blue LED to light, run out of CCW adjustment. I assume it’s fine because the amp does not go into protection mode and it sounds great. Just wondering because I still have time to return the tubes under warranty. Any one else run into this? Thanks
Tubes too hot? I would return them and get another quad. If I remember correctly, blue is when they are biased cold. In your case, you cannot bias them colder with the actual system in the event one of them goes to red in full CCW.
On mine I've measured the bias currents and even with the amber just on the bias currents are low for 6L6GC tubes so no prob.
Just curious why you replaced the 6L6's? Mine have nice ones that should last years. It was the crappy 12AX7's that needed replacement.
Just curious why you replaced the 6L6's? Mine have nice ones that should last years. It was the crappy 12AX7's that needed replacement.
Last edited:
Hi, thanks for the info! One of the pairs that was in there kept going into protect mode, hence the new set. I have a bias meter, I think i’ll throw it in there and see where they are at. I forget, what is a good bias current for 6L6’s?
Are those flip top cabinets? If they are does/would the YBA fit inside (I have been thinking of getting a PF-210 cab for mine)?
Hi. I highly doubt it will fit, I have the early versions of this cab and it would not even fit the PF50 I once owned.
