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Ohms - Don't yell at me
- Thread starter seand123
- Start date
IT’S INFO LIKE THIS
IS VERY MISLEADING AND NOT NECESSARILY TRUE and YES I’m yelling! Listen to @ agedhorse!
20% more wattage isn’t a problem you should be concerned with unless you’re trying to keep up with extremely loud band members. I would still go with the 8 ohm cab. It’s a better choice because situations change and you never know when you might need to add a second cab.
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You can easily tell if you’re going over the speed limit. Not everyone has the sense to not overdrive their speakers.My car has a 300hp engine.
The speed limit between my house and the grocery store is always 45 mph or less.
Therefore it’s not safe for me to drive my car to the grocery store.
Did I get that right?
I’ve replaced a few blown speakers for friends that loved the bass knob on their PA speakers.
I love your analogy. Not quite spot-on but I believe it gets the point across.My car has a 300hp engine.
The speed limit between my house and the grocery store is always 45 mph or less.
Therefore it’s not safe for me to drive my car to the grocery store.
Did I get that right?
Please don’t try this but I once built a kinda combo amp made up of a Peavey MAX Preamp, a QSC RMX 2450 and two Madison Sound 10” drivers and bullet tweeter.
The speakers were rated a 400 watts RMS each and I bridged the amp at 2400 watts RMS. That is an accident waiting to happen. I sat it on a tall homemade table to get it up to my ears and had FOH support. I played it for 2 years and never blew the speakers. I was very careful but I wouldn’t do it again. I was young and dumb.
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Yes 500 watt Amp is cable of blowing up 400 watt Cab BUT it won't be the Amp that does the blowing up
The OP has his options and anything else at this point will either be redundant or wrong.Yes 500 watt Amp is cable of blowing up 400 watt Cab BUT it won't be the Amp that does the blowing up
@SharpCat @agedhorse Yes, exactly! No need for yelling! I’m on the same page as you guys!
I may have conveyed this wrong through text, but I knew “MPT” was just marketing jargon (mark proprietary technology) right when I went back and looked. To clarify, I think my ADD brain brushed over “MPT” and stored it as RMS in my memory, which is why I thought that originally.
Out of curiosity though, where are you seeing that the amp is RMS? I can’t find that anywhere and am genuinely curious.
You can never have too much horsepower! Even if it just leaves rubber on the roadMy car has a 300hp engine.
The speed limit between my house and the grocery store is always 45 mph or less.
Therefore it’s not safe for me to drive my car to the grocery store.
Did I get that right?
I just like that we still use "horsepower" as a unit of measurement. 
I just like that we still use "horsepower" as a unit of measurement.
The best part is that one horse has ~15 horsepower.
Ah - I found it and satisfied my own curiosity. It was buried in the user manual online. RMS confirmed@SharpCat @agedhorse Yes, exactly! No need for yelling! I’m on the same page as you guys!
I may have conveyed this wrong through text, but I knew “MPT” was just marketing jargon (mark proprietary technology) right when I went back and looked. To clarify, I think my ADD brain brushed over “MPT” and stored it as RMS in my memory, which is why I thought that originally.
Out of curiosity though, where are you seeing that the amp is RMS? I can’t find that anywhere and am genuinely curious.
Yes MarkBass since beginning in early 2000's have always been rated RMS along with all better Amp builders/Manufacturers
When you see Amps rated for 2000 watts and cost $199 maybe not
Bottom line: Your original plan was to get an 8 Ohm cab to allow for the possible addition of a second cab later. Your original plan was not flawed. Stick with the plan. You were sent the wrong cab. Send it back and get the right cab.
According to your original plan, power ratings are all peachy under all circumstances and you get the modularity options you wanted. Don't try to overthink it in order to make the wrong cabinet right for your needs. It's not. Get the cab you originally planned for.
According to your original plan, power ratings are all peachy under all circumstances and you get the modularity options you wanted. Don't try to overthink it in order to make the wrong cabinet right for your needs. It's not. Get the cab you originally planned for.
You went from being able to add to being stuck with that one cab. Exchange the cab.
I would exchange the cab for the one I ordered on principle alone.
Secondly, everyone is correct that your amp is more than capable of destroying your cabinet. A single 4 ohm 2x10 cab receiving 500w is not going to be much louder than an 8 ohm 2x10 receiving 300w., so you might as well play it safe. Adding a second 8 ohm cab to achieve a 4 ohm load will have much more volume and sound pressure than a single 2x10 at 4 ohms, especially if the 4 ohm cab can’t handle the full power of the amp.
Secondly, everyone is correct that your amp is more than capable of destroying your cabinet. A single 4 ohm 2x10 cab receiving 500w is not going to be much louder than an 8 ohm 2x10 receiving 300w., so you might as well play it safe. Adding a second 8 ohm cab to achieve a 4 ohm load will have much more volume and sound pressure than a single 2x10 at 4 ohms, especially if the 4 ohm cab can’t handle the full power of the amp.
