Speakers and cabs are enough to drive anyone nuts.
Again, sum of all parts.
I think the density and strength of the material, the joinery, the depth of the cab, open, ported, sealed all can affect the same speakers drastically.
You can also put lousy speakers in a great cab and be less than thrilled.
You can put very high quality speakers in the wrong cab with mixed results.
In all my messing around, I'm blending complimentary drivers for some spectacular results with guitar amps.
No crossovers, just letting them do their thing.
My British Jangle Cab - Oval Back solid cherry, dove tail joints, recessed handle 25 pound unloaded.
Toss in an 18 pound EVM-12L and a Fane AXA12 52 pounds loaded and it will beat the living snot out of a typical Greenback loaded 4X12.
My Reeves/Port City OS 2X12 is more like 70 pounds with the same two speakers, but I doubt the marine birch ply
has as much affect on the tone as the cab design with bottom porting.
I'm fine with my SVT 8X10 for bass, but an AlNiCo 8X10 also makes a remarkable guitar cab.
The sealed chamber design delivers a focused punchy sound, but the very low efficiency of those old CTS AlNiCos actually cuts volume by a good 30%.
If I needed to play a small club, the SVT cab would actually be the low volume rig.
My high efficiency 2X12's are rigged for recording and playing larger venues on guitar.
I helped Bad Cat Amps knock some serious weight off their very heavy cabs, suggesting 1" poplar with dovetail joints as opposed to much heavier marine birch ply.
I still haven't decided what I'm doing about a lighter bass cab.
Sound wise, I'm content, but it would be cool to have a 15"
FFTT If you dont mind entertaining one more question regarding "Old school vs. New school":
Do you feel that the sound quality of a cabinet is dependant on the weight?