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Double Bass Palatino Megathread part I
- Thread starter Nohandles
- Start date
- Status
Depends on the quality U buy. Cheapo ones are usually quite light & weak, good 'uns are heavy
, strong & will last for ever.
Buy the way Guys, I've ordered my Palatino thru the other Talkbasser on this thread that lives in MY state-Thanks John- & I cant wait to 1 get it.
2. learn to play it well enough to have it goin in our Jazz quartet!!!!!
3. Pay for it!
All in all tho CANT WAIT- HURRY UP!!!
2. learn to play it well enough to have it goin in our Jazz quartet!!!!! 3. Pay for it! All in all tho CANT WAIT- HURRY UP!!!
BTW again, sorry--- But a few weeks ago I picked up- for next to nothin $$- a Hondo P-bass style guitar. It has Grover Tuners-good cond.- string thru body! Chunky bridge! Sounded great as it was, but I had a set of Di Marzio P-bass p/ups lying round, so stuck 'em in & it sounds even better!!! Amazing-even tho the body is PLYwood!!!!:scowl: !!! Has a great P-bass thump- used it at at gig last w/end & nearly brought the house down! I thought even If I used all the parts &'d still come out on top.
She's an old '80's style -with pointy headstock
- weighs a ton, all black with a fair bit of wear marks on body-tho frets are surprisingly good!- Incredible! Tho one day I may get hold of an Alder body & use the lovely bridge-string thru 'ferrules'? GOOD IDEA??????????? What are ur thoughts? Cheers guys Rod
ps I'll be doing all the things suggested on this thread to the Pallatino when she arrives too- so a BIG aussie THANX to all who've suggested things/tried things & posted 'em. Thanx again, ROD
I thought even If I used all the parts &'d still come out on top. She's an old '80's style -with pointy headstock
- weighs a ton, all black with a fair bit of wear marks on body-tho frets are surprisingly good!- Incredible! Tho one day I may get hold of an Alder body & use the lovely bridge-string thru 'ferrules'? GOOD IDEA??????????? What are ur thoughts? Cheers guys Rodps I'll be doing all the things suggested on this thread to the Pallatino when she arrives too- so a BIG aussie THANX to all who've suggested things/tried things & posted 'em. Thanx again, ROD
T9c said:
The stand I have has a boom, but the boom arm fits straight down into the vertical tube so only the end sticks out. I've seen other boom stands do this, but I don't know if they all do.
I got my palatino, it was way better than I expected, seems very solid (for a 600 dollar EUB).
My old roomate works down at the local used instruments store, he took me up to the attic and they had like hundreds of old boom stands lying in a heap. (I guess they keep them to make repairs). He picked me out a good sturdy one, with boom arm, and I didn't even have to pay for it (plus I got to see the instrument graveyard upstairs).
The boom arm screwed right in, and it is fully adjustable, I would say the boom arm is a plus, because you can either play right on top of the tripod, or move the bass out about three feet away from it.
To anybody who is thinking bout buying a palatino, I recommend it. For the money you can't go wrong. I like to think of it as comparing an ibanez sound gear to an alembic. The ibanez will work for you, sound great, but you can spend 300% of the sticker price on an alembic and get maybe 10% better sound (which I have done by the way). If you are not and don't plan to be full time EUB player the palatino is great.
blah blah blah... I think I just like to see myself type....
My old roomate works down at the local used instruments store, he took me up to the attic and they had like hundreds of old boom stands lying in a heap. (I guess they keep them to make repairs). He picked me out a good sturdy one, with boom arm, and I didn't even have to pay for it (plus I got to see the instrument graveyard upstairs).
The boom arm screwed right in, and it is fully adjustable, I would say the boom arm is a plus, because you can either play right on top of the tripod, or move the bass out about three feet away from it.
To anybody who is thinking bout buying a palatino, I recommend it. For the money you can't go wrong. I like to think of it as comparing an ibanez sound gear to an alembic. The ibanez will work for you, sound great, but you can spend 300% of the sticker price on an alembic and get maybe 10% better sound (which I have done by the way). If you are not and don't plan to be full time EUB player the palatino is great.
blah blah blah... I think I just like to see myself type....
Just wanted to let you know that I received my new Palatino bass case from Colorado Case today. They made it from the pattern they had from making yours. It is a really great case. Extremely well made and very well padded. It almost stands on it own. I wanted to say thanks for posting the information about yours. I probably would not have known about these guys otherwise.
http://www.coloradocase.com/ It was 275.oo with shipping.DaBassman said:
I don't have any photos of it but you won't be sorry if you but one.
Will try to do some photos later. Coloradocase.com is website. Cost was $228.85 including shipping.
Thanks for case info!
What type of amps/cabs/preamps etc are you folks using with this bass? thanks
What type of amps/cabs/preamps etc are you folks using with this bass? thanks
Link Removed This is the preamp set up then I use core cables and a 120W Basic Black by SWR. With this I can get plenty of volume and drive.DaBassman said:
Great, I have the same one. I use it with either an Ampeg BA112 or a SWR 2004 head with an old 67 Bassman bottom. Hope to have my VE500 in a few weeks.
DaBassman said:
I really love this bass. Glad I waited a year until the bugs seemed worked out. So far I have tried using it with the stands but I like it best as is. I even removed the padding I made for the bar you rest on your body. You will have a lot of fun with this one. Enjoy and let us know your impressions when you get it.
DaBassman said:
I haven't got the amp yet, but I'm considering an old Ampeg flip-top . Probably a B-12N. I look for easy to carry amps.
So far I've just plugged into my SansAmp Bass DI straight into the A/D converters (recording lingo). It sounds great.
Last night I finally did the thin-rubber mod under the pickup and bridge feet and it evened out the string volumes. Before the mod the D was very weak (or maybe the E & A were very loud). Anyway it sounds a whole lot better. I used some of that craft foam in a 8x10 sheet from WalMart (or any crafts shop) - a whopping 33cents.
Getting ready to pull the trigger.... I'm a lefty and will switch it over. I "tried" one at a local shop (as best as I could backwards!). I didn't see too many issues that couldn't be solved. Any suggestions/advice/warnings from those of you already playing them???
Thanks
Thanks
DaBassman said:
Its not to hard to reverse an instrument. The hard part with the Palatino is the bridge since it not an off the shelf item. Call them and ask if they could get you a blank. I am going to produce some bridges but have so much repair work to do I am weeks behind. You might want to get a new piece of ebony for the nut or widen the low side and fill with a good hard epoxy with ebony dust ( Stewart McDonald ) and refile to the new sizes. Either way will be fine. In my mind the new ebony would probable be the best since its electric and the wood is softer than the epoxy. I have no exparence with electric until I got the Palatino. Post what you do and maybe I can help with the process. I just thought you might be able to raise the bridge and refile the slots for the reversed strings. Ijust depends on how high you like to play. Mine are 5/16 up at the and of the fret board. I like to slap the bass and need them low.
Got My Palatino/Riley- Thanx John! Seems pretty good! John put a thin strip of cork under bridge instead of the rubber U guys mentioned. I'll prob. try both. I just finished tuning & putting little 'dot marker' stickers on the side of the neck so I'll know where I am for the 1st few months. Haven't tried it out thru amp yet, only thru a V-AMP with crappy headphones- rolled all treble off & seemed to have a nice thump! More when I know mo'
RodI really like this bass, and I still use the stand pole as is, with my own stand I made. I can't see using a cymbal stand, The stand i made weighs about 4 or 5 pounds, and is VERY position-able and VERY stable, Let me tell you, when your off to play, the difference between 5 pounds versus 25 pounds can really make a gig go well.
Anyway, I just took apart the clamps on the back that batons down the stand pole to the bass.
I had been getting a vibe when I played an open E. I found the sleeves that hold the collets were loose. Upon taking the two off, I found that the 4 screws that hold the collet sleeve to the plate that is in turn is screwed to the back of the bass were ALL loose. EIGHT of them.
When I saw those screws all loose, I could just see my great bass just crashing to a hard gig floor with no warning!!!
My theory is that they were installed quickly, and not tight enough. As I played, these screws ( since they are at a place of optimum vibration on the bass), eventually vibrated more & more loose.
What I did- I wanted to isolate the vibration back into the bass as much as possible, so I took electrical tape, because it's very soft and very thin, and used the collet piece as a pattern for a cover on the mounting plate, then cut a second set for the bottom of the collet sleeve, to have two layers of padding.
I left all the holes covered so that the screws would drag some into the holes of the collet sleeve and perhaps act like teflon thread wrap/sealer, like plumbers use.
This took care of the vibration, and hopefully, any chance of these 8 crucial screws from vibrating out any longer, and halting any potential disaster. You all should check this out, especially if your getting another weird vibration.
Anyway, I just took apart the clamps on the back that batons down the stand pole to the bass.
I had been getting a vibe when I played an open E. I found the sleeves that hold the collets were loose. Upon taking the two off, I found that the 4 screws that hold the collet sleeve to the plate that is in turn is screwed to the back of the bass were ALL loose. EIGHT of them.
When I saw those screws all loose, I could just see my great bass just crashing to a hard gig floor with no warning!!!
My theory is that they were installed quickly, and not tight enough. As I played, these screws ( since they are at a place of optimum vibration on the bass), eventually vibrated more & more loose.
What I did- I wanted to isolate the vibration back into the bass as much as possible, so I took electrical tape, because it's very soft and very thin, and used the collet piece as a pattern for a cover on the mounting plate, then cut a second set for the bottom of the collet sleeve, to have two layers of padding.
I left all the holes covered so that the screws would drag some into the holes of the collet sleeve and perhaps act like teflon thread wrap/sealer, like plumbers use.
This took care of the vibration, and hopefully, any chance of these 8 crucial screws from vibrating out any longer, and halting any potential disaster. You all should check this out, especially if your getting another weird vibration.
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