I think you may be in error. The truss rod works in opposition to the pull of the strings. Tightening the rod would lower the action and increase the buzzing from a marginal fingerboard.
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Double Bass Palatino Megathread part II
- Thread starter bassbob
- Start date
I think it is close to the fingerboard and tightening it would bend the neck up/forward. But anyway I have tried both on the Stagg and nothing happened.
You might want to try both too, just in case I was right.
You might want to try both too, just in case I was right.
update on bridge replacement.
i'm altering a eminence bridge (from gollihur) to fit. it's quite a bit taller so a good deal of materials needs to be removed. here is a comparison with the stock bridge and an acrylic one made by a TB'er.
looks like i'll have to take off ~14mm
so, i decided i'd flatten the feet, which removes ~2mm. then i'll remove the feet and split the remaining 12mm off the top and bottom. below, is a pic of the new bridge with the outline of the original traced onto it. i guess i'll trim it close, then install and fine-tune.
any suggestions on how to do the alignment/adjustment of the string saddle area best?
i thought about taking some more off the feet but the screw adjuster sinks in pretty low and i didn't want to compromise the foot stability.
i made a sanding platform out of my son's skateboard.
and got to it. i held the bridge as steady as i could and swiped it back and forth. it too about 20 min to get it apparently flat. here's an in-progress shot showing the gap which indicates its not quite flat yet.
after being satisfied with flatness, i sanded the outer edges of the feet slightly (~1mm off each side) so it would fit in the bridge pocket on the bass. other users have popped open the pickup frame but i shortened the feet a touch instead.
next is getting rid of the remaining 12mm.
i'm altering a eminence bridge (from gollihur) to fit. it's quite a bit taller so a good deal of materials needs to be removed. here is a comparison with the stock bridge and an acrylic one made by a TB'er.
looks like i'll have to take off ~14mm
so, i decided i'd flatten the feet, which removes ~2mm. then i'll remove the feet and split the remaining 12mm off the top and bottom. below, is a pic of the new bridge with the outline of the original traced onto it. i guess i'll trim it close, then install and fine-tune.
any suggestions on how to do the alignment/adjustment of the string saddle area best?
i thought about taking some more off the feet but the screw adjuster sinks in pretty low and i didn't want to compromise the foot stability.
i made a sanding platform out of my son's skateboard.
and got to it. i held the bridge as steady as i could and swiped it back and forth. it too about 20 min to get it apparently flat. here's an in-progress shot showing the gap which indicates its not quite flat yet.
after being satisfied with flatness, i sanded the outer edges of the feet slightly (~1mm off each side) so it would fit in the bridge pocket on the bass. other users have popped open the pickup frame but i shortened the feet a touch instead.
next is getting rid of the remaining 12mm.
update on bridge replacement.
i'm altering a eminence bridge (from gollihur) to fit. it's quite a bit taller so a good deal of materials needs to be removed. here is a comparison with the stock bridge and an acrylic one made by a TB'er.
looks like i'll have to take off ~14mm
so, i decided i'd flatten the feet, which removes ~2mm. then i'll remove the feet and split the remaining 12mm off the top and bottom. below, is a pic of the new bridge with the outline of the original traced onto it. i guess i'll trim it close, then install and fine-tune.
any suggestions on how to do the alignment/adjustment of the string saddle area best?
i thought about taking some more off the feet but the screw adjuster sinks in pretty low and i didn't want to compromise the foot stability.
i made a sanding platform out of my son's skateboard.
and got to it. i held the bridge as steady as i could and swiped it back and forth. it too about 20 min to get it apparently flat. here's an in-progress shot showing the gap which indicates its not quite flat yet.
after being satisfied with flatness, i sanded the outer edges of the feet slightly (~1mm off each side) so it would fit in the bridge pocket on the bass. other users have popped open the pickup frame but i shortened the feet a touch instead.
next is getting rid of the remaining 12mm.
Awesome! And I totally dig the skateboard sanding table! Brilliant!
Please do let us know how it progresses and also what type of difference you may feel and hear, if any.
Sorry, I don't have any input as to how to proceed.
God dangit.. this showed up in the news-feed for latest DoubleBass posts..
That sure looks like the "stock Eminence" Bridge you got there to replace the Pally bridge buddy..
I'm just saying.
But good job on the do-it-yourself mentality..
I'd urge you to show it to a luthier as they know the measurements of string notches and how to file them correctly, apparently, there are a certain ways to not hinder the string from vibrating etc.. you might be in a lot of work ahead.. but you seem up to it.
I just was with my luthier and went through all this with my bridge on my Real Full-size bass.. there were things as important as to how the feet sit and distribution of pressure across each string evenly. Even to how the notches were filed from the top and bottom of the edges, and how deep you are supposed to make the string sit in the bridge.. Things like splitting the wood with those adjusters ha..
the feet part may be different as it's a magnet junk pickup flat piece you got there for it to sit on but..
Well, you know, my "unhelpful posts" here and my feelings about this.. so.. I don't want anybody from Jersey Shore calling out attitudes..
I'm out. Good luck.
That sure looks like the "stock Eminence" Bridge you got there to replace the Pally bridge buddy..
I'm just saying.
But good job on the do-it-yourself mentality..
I'd urge you to show it to a luthier as they know the measurements of string notches and how to file them correctly, apparently, there are a certain ways to not hinder the string from vibrating etc.. you might be in a lot of work ahead.. but you seem up to it.
I just was with my luthier and went through all this with my bridge on my Real Full-size bass.. there were things as important as to how the feet sit and distribution of pressure across each string evenly. Even to how the notches were filed from the top and bottom of the edges, and how deep you are supposed to make the string sit in the bridge.. Things like splitting the wood with those adjusters ha..
the feet part may be different as it's a magnet junk pickup flat piece you got there for it to sit on but..
Well, you know, my "unhelpful posts" here and my feelings about this.. so.. I don't want anybody from Jersey Shore calling out attitudes..
I'm out. Good luck.
Last edited:
Are you prepared to drill out and tap the body of the bridge without going through the side of the bridge? Once the leg is cut down the threaded portion is darned close to coming through if left full length. I think I'd grind off a portion of the unthreaded section of the adjuster and remove more from the feet - that hole is purely for alignment the shoulder does the supporting and take a portion off from the threaded portion as well. If at all possible keep as much of the wood above the heart of the bridge as possible, it isn't just thrown in to add height, but helps to keep string to string balance even.update on bridge replacement.
i thought about taking some more off the feet but the screw adjuster sinks in pretty low and i didn't want to compromise the foot stability.
and got to it. i held the bridge as steady as i could and swiped it back and forth. it too about 20 min to get it apparently flat. here's an in-progress shot showing the gap which indicates its not quite flat yet.
I'd also look at fitting the pickup mounting box to the top a bit better, and removing some thickness there as well. Take what you can get where you can get it so you can leave the bridge in a more optimal configuration.
good ideas carl. i actually forgot about removing the pickup to get a little height there. i'll probably be replacing the stock pickup anyway and that will save a me a couple mm's.
yeah, i've been scratching my head a bit about threading any additional hole depth i create. i actually wasn't sure how to drill the hole deeper without messing up the current threads. also, is it a problem to have the hole come all the way through?
yeah, i've been scratching my head a bit about threading any additional hole depth i create. i actually wasn't sure how to drill the hole deeper without messing up the current threads. also, is it a problem to have the hole come all the way through?
has anyone played around with placing the bridge directly on the body? of course, this requires a different pickup but it seems like the fewer links in the mechanical chain the better.
There's some videos on YouTube showing people doing that and switching out the electronics as welll. I'll try and send you the links.
Here are the vids I had bookmarked. If you search bobrbass on youtube, you might find more.
This is a very nice and detailed write up done by someone:
My Harley Benton EUB story
This is a very nice and detailed write up done by someone:
My Harley Benton EUB story
here's an update.
i sanded the eminence bridge feet flat on my skateboard sanding table, then made them fit the bass top by sticking sandpaper to the bass top. i used double sided tape instead of tape on top of the sandpaper because it seemed to hold the paper more closer to the shape of the bass top. i ended up cutting the unthreaded rod on the metal adjusters so i could remove more material from the feet. i didn't have to remove anything from the top of the bridge (besides string notches) or the threaded region where the adjuster goes in.
i removed the palatino pickup and black pickup holder like in the link from above.
My Harley Benton EUB story
so after shaping the bridge, i installed a SDT-1 piezo strip pickup (from Link Removed), placed it under the bass foot, routed the wire through the same hole the original pickup used, then soldered the cable to the standard jack.
now i just run an instrument cable from this jack to my k&k preamp which i plan to mount on the back of the bass and just use the preamp volume as a volume knob. so far it sounds pretty good though i do get a bit of high-end noise (finger sliding, etc). the pickup wire that's routed through the cavity certainly makes noise if you touch it but it doesn't seem to move around as i play so maybe it's ok.
i sanded the eminence bridge feet flat on my skateboard sanding table, then made them fit the bass top by sticking sandpaper to the bass top. i used double sided tape instead of tape on top of the sandpaper because it seemed to hold the paper more closer to the shape of the bass top. i ended up cutting the unthreaded rod on the metal adjusters so i could remove more material from the feet. i didn't have to remove anything from the top of the bridge (besides string notches) or the threaded region where the adjuster goes in.
i removed the palatino pickup and black pickup holder like in the link from above.
My Harley Benton EUB story
so after shaping the bridge, i installed a SDT-1 piezo strip pickup (from Link Removed), placed it under the bass foot, routed the wire through the same hole the original pickup used, then soldered the cable to the standard jack.
now i just run an instrument cable from this jack to my k&k preamp which i plan to mount on the back of the bass and just use the preamp volume as a volume knob. so far it sounds pretty good though i do get a bit of high-end noise (finger sliding, etc). the pickup wire that's routed through the cavity certainly makes noise if you touch it but it doesn't seem to move around as i play so maybe it's ok.
Hi there !!! what size of Allen Key did you use to tighten or loosen the Truss rod on the Palatino?
Another question for y'all !!!!
What about string tension on your Palatino basses? I know there are many factors involved like: nut height , curve fingerboard and so on but my fingerboard and nut seem to be fairly ok. My problem is that with a regular Double Bass, the strings for example I am using are Spirocore Thomastiks which on most double basses work great with not so much tension. The problem is having them on the Palatino bass since with the same strings, the tension is ridiculously rigid on the EUB bass. I've been playing Double Bass for over 30 years and so I know exactly how it is supposed to feel and on the Palatino, I have never in my life felt so much tension in pulling the strings. I'm thinking of raising the saddle where the tailpiece wire comes over the bass. I know that this has worked on regular double basses and so I'm hoping I can get this lower the string tension.
Anyone have alternative advice ?
What about string tension on your Palatino basses? I know there are many factors involved like: nut height , curve fingerboard and so on but my fingerboard and nut seem to be fairly ok. My problem is that with a regular Double Bass, the strings for example I am using are Spirocore Thomastiks which on most double basses work great with not so much tension. The problem is having them on the Palatino bass since with the same strings, the tension is ridiculously rigid on the EUB bass. I've been playing Double Bass for over 30 years and so I know exactly how it is supposed to feel and on the Palatino, I have never in my life felt so much tension in pulling the strings. I'm thinking of raising the saddle where the tailpiece wire comes over the bass. I know that this has worked on regular double basses and so I'm hoping I can get this lower the string tension.
Anyone have alternative advice ?
Another question for y'all !!!!
What about string tension on your Palatino basses? I know there are many factors involved like: nut height , curve fingerboard and so on but my fingerboard and nut seem to be fairly ok. My problem is that with a regular Double Bass, the strings for example I am using are Spirocore Thomastiks which on most double basses work great with not so much tension. The problem is having them on the Palatino bass since with the same strings, the tension is ridiculously rigid on the EUB bass. I've been playing Double Bass for over 30 years and so I know exactly how it is supposed to feel and on the Palatino, I have never in my life felt so much tension in pulling the strings. I'm thinking of raising the saddle where the tailpiece wire comes over the bass. I know that this has worked on regular double basses and so I'm hoping I can get this lower the string tension.
Anyone have alternative advice ?
What about string tension on your Palatino basses? I know there are many factors involved like: nut height , curve fingerboard and so on but my fingerboard and nut seem to be fairly ok. My problem is that with a regular Double Bass, the strings for example I am using are Spirocore Thomastiks which on most double basses work great with not so much tension. The problem is having them on the Palatino bass since with the same strings, the tension is ridiculously rigid on the EUB bass. I've been playing Double Bass for over 30 years and so I know exactly how it is supposed to feel and on the Palatino, I have never in my life felt so much tension in pulling the strings. I'm thinking of raising the saddle where the tailpiece wire comes over the bass. I know that this has worked on regular double basses and so I'm hoping I can get this lower the string tension.
Anyone have alternative advice ?
Another question for y'all !!!!
What about string tension on your Palatino basses? I know there are many factors involved like: nut height , curve fingerboard and so on but my fingerboard and nut seem to be fairly ok. My problem is that with a regular Double Bass, the strings for example I am using are Spirocore Thomastiks which on most double basses work great with not so much tension. The problem is having them on the Palatino bass since with the same strings, the tension is ridiculously rigid on the EUB bass. I've been playing Double Bass for over 30 years and so I know exactly how it is supposed to feel and on the Palatino, I have never in my life felt so much tension in pulling the strings. I'm thinking of raising the saddle where the tailpiece wire comes over the bass. I know that this has worked on regular double basses and so I'm hoping I can get this to lower the string tension.
Anyone have alternative advice ?
What about string tension on your Palatino basses? I know there are many factors involved like: nut height , curve fingerboard and so on but my fingerboard and nut seem to be fairly ok. My problem is that with a regular Double Bass, the strings for example I am using are Spirocore Thomastiks which on most double basses work great with not so much tension. The problem is having them on the Palatino bass since with the same strings, the tension is ridiculously rigid on the EUB bass. I've been playing Double Bass for over 30 years and so I know exactly how it is supposed to feel and on the Palatino, I have never in my life felt so much tension in pulling the strings. I'm thinking of raising the saddle where the tailpiece wire comes over the bass. I know that this has worked on regular double basses and so I'm hoping I can get this to lower the string tension.
Anyone have alternative advice ?
