What is a good price for a truss rod cover? I've seen a couple stock covers go for $45 and more. Should I try to jump one on or hunt for a cheap custom made cover?
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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
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I found one for about $15, but the seller wants $14 for shipping. No thanks!
Also, just out of curiosity, can anyone help me get this tone:
You don't see too many people slapping on these, but this guy sounds pretty good.
They may be using new/bright strings, too.
Also, just out of curiosity, can anyone help me get this tone:
You don't see too many people slapping on these, but this guy sounds pretty good.
They may be using new/bright strings, too.
I found they could get a great slap sound when I would just play them hard clacking off the last fret, but I didn't find much finger room to slap on it, so I tended to stay away from it.
Using pickups together with some volume emphasis on the bridge and tweaking around with the tone knobs got a good sound, but the strings make a big difference.
Using pickups together with some volume emphasis on the bridge and tweaking around with the tone knobs got a good sound, but the strings make a big difference.
I'm going to see if I can sucker my friend into picking it up and shipping it. She lives where that specific dude is shipping from.
Now I just need new strings and a few little tweaks to lower the action and such.
I'm not sure if I want to go with flats or something bright. I've got a list of strings I'd love to try on this thing, but I can't try 'em all at once! I've got DR Lowriders on my Spector but I feel like they would be too bright on it. I've got Labellas Deep Talkin' Bass strings on my trusty Yamaha which might sound pretty damn ballsy with lots of low end.
I'm hearing good things about Pyramids, TIs, and High Beams, though!
Now I just need new strings and a few little tweaks to lower the action and such.
I'm not sure if I want to go with flats or something bright. I've got a list of strings I'd love to try on this thing, but I can't try 'em all at once! I've got DR Lowriders on my Spector but I feel like they would be too bright on it. I've got Labellas Deep Talkin' Bass strings on my trusty Yamaha which might sound pretty damn ballsy with lots of low end.
I'm hearing good things about Pyramids, TIs, and High Beams, though!
Engine207
Losing faith in humanity...one call at a time.
Has anyone here tried cutting the red coil tap wire at the tone pot mod? I was reading about it on the enthusiast forum. Chip Todd actually recommends doing this mod and said something about finding the tone circuit they used embarrassing to him now. So anyone try it? I think I might today. I'll keep you guys in the loop.
I bought a pair of Pyramid Golds from lmfreeman9 for $35. I'll definitely be trying out the Coccos next.
I did it about a year ago. Haven't regretted it. You might as well give it a shot.
We've been with a set of of Circle K balanced tension .043 - .112 on one, and Roto sound flats on the other.
I much prefer LaBella flats. But only have the Jamerson set on one P Bass. Harder to play than my URB with Correlli's.
Etonem and Hollywars also like DR, Esp MM Fat Beams. Etonem may like Sadowky Blacks a lot too.
Expect to try many sets before the right ones strike you.
I'm getting closer to what I like but am not completey there. It's taken good number of years string and basses. Just to get me this far.
I much prefer LaBella flats. But only have the Jamerson set on one P Bass. Harder to play than my URB with Correlli's.
Etonem and Hollywars also like DR, Esp MM Fat Beams. Etonem may like Sadowky Blacks a lot too.
Expect to try many sets before the right ones strike you.
I'm getting closer to what I like but am not completey there. It's taken good number of years string and basses. Just to get me this far.
I really loved the GHS Precision flats on my T-40...but the labellas were really nice too... I have so many sets of strings I just keep swapping from bass to bass until I find the right combinations to unlock the best sounds 
Last night I was looking for an extra B string for one of my basses... turns out I have ONE extra set of strings. I thought had half a dozen. I found about three or four sets of brand new guitar strings, though...
I'm about to order a few sets of strings since I have a few basses and have only one extra set. For my T-40 I am going to try the R. Cocco and d'Addario Chromes. I've got the Pyramids coming in the mail so this should give me a bit of different taste.
EDIT: What exactly does the the tone pot modification do? Does it unleash even more magical powers from the T-40?
I'm about to order a few sets of strings since I have a few basses and have only one extra set. For my T-40 I am going to try the R. Cocco and d'Addario Chromes. I've got the Pyramids coming in the mail so this should give me a bit of different taste.
EDIT: What exactly does the the tone pot modification do? Does it unleash even more magical powers from the T-40?
I, too, am interested to know what this mod is supposed to do. Does it eliminate coil tapping?
I removed the phase switch from my project T-40, and am open to other suggestions to mod it further from my stock T-40.
Cutting the red wire will give a taste more highs. The tone controls will need to be rewired as normal tone controls. My favorite mod is cut the red wires and use the phase switch to coil tap the neck PU only. Bridge PU in HB and neck in SC is a good combo.
mech
mech
I like that idea even better. Is it tricky? Doesn't sound like it would be but I know the circuit is a little weird.
It's not too difficult if you are handy with a soldering iron and can work with the small plastic switches. These old switches won't take a lot of heat for any length of time so you may want to start with a new switch.
1. Cut all the wires off the phase switch except the bare wire ground that goes to one of the center lugs.
2. Remove the jumper wire that went to the Phase switch from the Bridge Vol pot center lug and solder the white wire from the Bridge PU to the center lug of the Bridge Vol pot. This wire may need to be lengthened by splicing in some more wire.
3. Solder the black or green wire from the Bridge PU to ground. Any pot case or the ground lug on the Phase switch will do.
4. Cut the red wire from the Bridge PU at the tone pot and insulate the end. This makes the Bridge PU humbucker only and it's tone pot will act more normal. Because of the custom taper, the highs will not start rolling of as soon as a normal audio taper pot.
5. Cut the red wire from the Neck PU and solder it to a lug on the same side as the bare wire ground on the Phase switch. This wire may need to be lengthened by splicing in some more wire. This turns the Phase switch into a SC/HB switch for the Neck PU.
6. You can select whether the SC/HB switch is up or down for SC mode by using either the top or bottom lug. The lug that is used is opposite the position of the bat handle on the switch. Handle up = bottom lug is used. Handle down = top lug is used.
I don't have a T-40 anymore but I do have T-40 PUs on a couple of basses and have similar setups for them. Bridge in HB and Neck in SC is what I use most often. I like it. Your mileage may vary.
mech
