Instead of going from the PWs all the way to the PFs, you can always try the Brite Flats (Alloy 52 half-rounds), which would take you closer to the flatwound territory without going all the way. Just a suggestion...
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Praise Report: GHS Precision Flats
- Thread starter Linnin
- Start date
Instead of going from the PWs all the way to the PFs, you can always try the Brite Flats (Alloy 52 half-rounds), which would take you closer to the flatwound territory without going all the way. Just a suggestion...
I would give them a go when you feel the need to change out your Pressurewounds. If you've never played flats before, try to find a bass strung in flats (brand unimportant for this trial), and make sure you like the feel and tension of flats.
I would say make sure you like the feel and the sound of flats - they do come in all kinds of tensions. I’ll have to try PW’s with the tone rolled off - I’ll get back to you on that
Nothing sexier than the Sound of Chocolate. Be careful how you dance. You could find yourself in the midst of Wild Chocolate Romance.That's the Sound of Chocolate you're hearing.
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LaBella is the sound of moldy cardboard.
from what I can tell La Bella are more scooped and more focused in the low end and tighter with more top end, whereas the GHS are a bit fuller in the midrange, a bit looser sounding, a bit more organic. La Bella have more tension than the GHS. Both sound great. There are enough clips on youtube to get the idea of both.
Labella is 60's/70's soul, whereas I've always thought GHS have the sound of 70's reggae and dub (although I could be wrong on that)
And what kind of cardboard does GHS sound like?
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Probably. Use a bit of foam at the bridge. Gives a nice clicky flats sound.
Pbassmanca
In the pocket n' thumpy. So woody, so greasy...
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First, there's this - Flatwound Roundtable - that has some tonal comparisons as well.
For me, I felt like the LaBella flats feel much more like a set of string bass strings on an electric bass. They are VERY stiff and have a heavy, deep sound. In comparison, while our Precision Flats also sit in that "dark" tone camp of flats, they have a bit of "air" to the tone, and are a bit more malleable under your hands.
Can't go wrong with either. The PFs are thicker, warmer and more full in the lower mids. The PWs have more highs and the mids are shifted to more mid-mids for a lack of a better term, and the lows are more open like round wounds. I have both on Precisions and it's just different flavors of Pbass goodness.
Ever since I acquired my third bass (active 5-string) 3 wks ago as an addition to my trusted P and J, I've been contemplating how I might be able to take full advantage of the three basses in my arsenal for maximum tonal versatility. One of the obvious choices would be to put flats back on my P for the old-school vibe. But the question is which flats? I initially planned on re-activating my Fender 9050CL flats that have been idle since last summer, but there is a little nagging voice in my head that's been urging me to try the Precision Flats instead.
One of the things that have kept me from trying the Precision Flats in the past in spite of the great review by @Linnin is they only come in "long plus" with 38" winding length. This means too much of the main body of the E string would wrap around the tuning post when top-loaded, which would irritate my OCD-prone nature too much, and I'm always leery about putting any flats thru-body. So what to do???
Here's what I would like to try...
First, based on various posts I've been reading, I've decided to go against my gut instinct as a "balanced-tension enthusiast" and go for the 3025 set (45-60-75-95) instead of the CM3050 (45-60-80-105). Then put only the E string thru-body and top-load the rest as the issue with the winding length only applies to the E string. My understanding is the Precision Flats are pliable enough not to break when put thru the body. But my question is whether it's a good idea to use the thru-body option only for the E string and not the rest? Or, should I be putting all four of them thru-body if I'm going to do it with the E?
What do you all think?
One of the things that have kept me from trying the Precision Flats in the past in spite of the great review by @Linnin is they only come in "long plus" with 38" winding length. This means too much of the main body of the E string would wrap around the tuning post when top-loaded, which would irritate my OCD-prone nature too much, and I'm always leery about putting any flats thru-body. So what to do???
Here's what I would like to try...
First, based on various posts I've been reading, I've decided to go against my gut instinct as a "balanced-tension enthusiast" and go for the 3025 set (45-60-75-95) instead of the CM3050 (45-60-80-105). Then put only the E string thru-body and top-load the rest as the issue with the winding length only applies to the E string. My understanding is the Precision Flats are pliable enough not to break when put thru the body. But my question is whether it's a good idea to use the thru-body option only for the E string and not the rest? Or, should I be putting all four of them thru-body if I'm going to do it with the E?
What do you all think?
Have you considered stringing through the bridge but using a spacer behind the bridge such as a circuit board spacer to prevent some of the extra length from wrapping around the tuning peg? Round Spacers - Spacers and Standoffs - Grainger Industrial Supply
Thanks for the suggestion.
Yes, I have considered a similar idea but the problem is the way the Fender high mass bridge on my 2014 Am Std P is designed, it's awkward to find anything to use as a spacer that would fit properly.
