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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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- club
I'm wrapping up a bass build, hoping to finish it this weekend. I painted the body with 1 can shellac sanding sealer, 1 can of black rustoleum primer/paint, and 2 cans of minwax polyurethane. I let it sit/dry about two weeks. I've done auto paint and lacquer before, waited about a month or two to dry, and I'd say it took me about an afternoon to wet sand + buff by hand and with a palm polisher; couple/few hours (? it was a long time ago). I hear polyurethane can be a bit tougher to work with compared to lacquer. Rustoleum/polyurethane painting process definitely went a bit smoother than when I painted with auto paint/lacquer, because it dried way faster.
I was just curious about how long it took you to finish wet sanding and buffing your bass body? How many hours approximately?
Thank you.
I was just curious about how long it took you to finish wet sanding and buffing your bass body? How many hours approximately?
Thank you.
If you are asking about my bass, I did no sanding or buffing after paint and clear.
Here's what I did..
Sanded down the original paint so it would hold the primer.
One coat of white primer.
4 coats of satin finish blue.
3 coats of semi gloss clear.
That was it over the course of 2 weeks. Came out very nice too.
Here's what I did..
Sanded down the original paint so it would hold the primer.
One coat of white primer.
4 coats of satin finish blue.
3 coats of semi gloss clear.
That was it over the course of 2 weeks. Came out very nice too.
Reranch Goldtop on rr Sherwood with GT stinger , I used Behlen starcast Amber which is very orange to highlight the Padouk neck .
I just finished this last week. I bought a cheap bass used on craiglist, stripped the paint, filled the old pickup holes, routed new pickup hole, repaint, custom pickguard, refinished neck. 1 Bartolini dual coil soapbar pickup + 1 volume + 1 varitone switch. I painted this with 1 can of shellac sanding sealer + 1 can of rustoleum black paint/primer + 2 cans of minwax polyurethane. Very happy with the result. Feels and sounds great.
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Man, that is a CLEAN job!! Congrats to you.If you are asking about my bass, I did no sanding or buffing after paint and clear.
Here's what I did..
Sanded down the original paint so it would hold the primer.
One coat of white primer.
4 coats of satin finish blue.
3 coats of semi gloss clear.
That was it over the course of 2 weeks. Came out very nice too.
Damn, some of these basses look amazing. I'm so glad I found this thread, I'm considering buying one of the Mikey Way signature Mustangs and repainting it white with a red tort pickguard. The silver sparkle finish on it just isn't for me, but I LOVE the way it sounds and feels. Any advice for stripping the paint on the headstock?
since the headstock is a kinda small area, it'd probably be best to just sand it down with a sanding block. Otherwise, a heat gun might be the only other option which may not be the cleanest way to strip the paint off on a small area.
You wouldn't have to strip it - the scuff sand/primer/paint/clear method would be fine, and a lot less work than stripping.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Sparkle finishes are thicker than an average finish so removing it will be more work. As posted de-glossing will be sufficient before repainting. I like 'road-worn' finishes so the thought of a distressed colour coat over a sparkle finish gives me ideas…
Quit bragging. Southern Ontario here, in winter my nose bleeds cuz it gets so dry.
Alright, so I'm picking up my Mustang on Friday, and I'll probably begin the refinishing this weekend! My question is, if I'm using Dupli-Color paint, how long should I wait between coats? Should I just let it tack up, or let it fully dry? How many coats would you recommend, and how long should I wait between the last coat of paint and the first coat of lacquer?
Which paint of theirs are you using? I've used the Perfect Match Premium on two basses and they both turned out well. The cans work best when you warm them in hot tap water before spraying. My method was shake, warm, shake, warm, shake and spray. Worked well for me. Lay down 3 or 4 light coats 15/20 minutes between each coat. Then let dry for about 3 hours and repeat the spraying. Do this twice more and let dry overnight. Do the same the next day until the can starts spitting then your done. As soon as you feel or see it spit stop immediately as you'll get nasty bubbles if you don't. Let cure for a week then start with the clear coats. I do them the same way as the base coat. You'll need 1 can of the base and 2 cans of the clear. Then let sit for at least 2 weeks to cure and gas out but longer is better. Then I lightly (lightly is the key word here) wet sand starting from 600 and going up to 2500. After that I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Fine Cut Cleaner and a small hand buffer made for cars to buff it out, then Meguiar's Swirl Remover to finish. If I'm looking for extra shine I use Nu Finish liquid and buff out by hand. I've tried the liquid and the soft paste and like the finish of the liquid better.
I'm sure there are other ways to do it, probably better ways, but this works for me. Being retired and having many other instruments at my disposal time isn't a factor when I start to do a finish with lacquer or any other paint.
Thanks so much! This is amazing. I'm going to be using the Perfect Match as well. Trying to find a nice metallic white, but I may end up doing a flat white finish instead. Now I just have to find someone who can cut me a custom pickguard...
One guy I was talking to told me that he gets good results with the metallics, which is what I used on both of mine, by using a few coats of the silver or gold or copper before the base coat. Said he needs less base coats and has more shine than just spraying the base over the primer. Haven't tried it yet, but probably will in the future. Seen one that used copper then a translucent red over it. Just enough red to tell it was there but you could see the copper under it. It looked pretty impressive.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
In progress - base coat is Krylon Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic (satin dark black-brown - not really metallic) dusted with Krylon "Glitter Blast" Golden Glow (decidedly metallic), and topped with multiple coats of Stew-Mac Colortone clear satin nitro. After the first wet-sanding with a fine grit foam pad sander, it doesn't feel too bad really so I may leave it as-is.I dig satin finishes for many reasons.
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