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Rattle Can Refinish Club

#1,081
I was reading a thread about recording/mixing/mastering and hit upon the saying "finished is better than perfect".

Well, I didn't give up on this, but I did decide it's as good as it's going to get. And for a first try, I'm pretty happy with it. There are definitely some things I can learn to do better, but I won't be ashamed to show this one off.

After letting it cure for two weeks, I finish sanded with 1000/1500/2000 grit, then buffed with rubbing compound and wax polish. It doesn't have the mirror gloss I was hoping for, but it looks nice, a bit satiny. There are some flaws, but no glaring ugliness. I'm pleased, and stoked to do an even better job on the next one.

Thanks for your help, everyone!!

Some pics!

35517020213_f78dde08b0.jpg
Almost finished! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

35517020253_c29653cc45.jpg
Almost finished! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

35517020273_baafacf172.jpg
Almost finished! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

35929527620_c8c4119612.jpg
Almost finished! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

36325881665_c48ba25f9d.jpg
Almost finished! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

I put the pickups in backward, and messed up the pickguard a bit in the process (routed it out to fit the bridge pickup - d'oh!), so when I get around to fixing that, I will probably/maybe replace the pickguard with a white pearloid.
 
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#1,082
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I think that any one of these would look killer on it.
.Especially the green Abalone one.
 
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#1,083
TwinDad said:
After letting it cure for two weeks, I finish sanded... then buffed with rubbing compound and wax polish. It doesn't have the mirror gloss I was hoping for, but it looks nice, a bit satiny.
Click to expand...
Instead of wax, finishing with a couple coats of clear(with 2500 grit sanding in between) would give it the gloss you wanted.

Very cool project and color.:-)
 
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#1,085
TwinDad said:
Why thank you! :)

So... there is already 8 coats of clear... you're saying two more coats? Or just don't stop at 2000 grit?
Click to expand...

When I did my first refin, I followed the Reranch polishing schedule and got a nice mirror gloss. Their recommendation is to start with 400 and continue up to 2000, then use the polishing products. It sounds like you didn't start with a low enough grit.
 
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#1,086
friskinator said:
When I did my first refin, I followed the Reranch polishing schedule and got a nice mirror gloss. Their recommendation is to start with 400 and continue up to 2000, then use the polishing products. It sounds like you didn't start with a low enough grit.
Click to expand...

I've been following mostly the tutuorial by Tundraman with elements of the Reranch tutorial thrown in. I suspect you are right that I did not start at low enough grit (as at least one problem). I was very concerned about cutting through the clear coat... and indeed saw a very small amount of color in the water as I sanded anyway. So I started at 1000, and as such probably left some larger-grain roughness in the finish.

Oh well. I'll just have to build another one and try again :roflmao:
 
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#1,087
TwinDad said:
I've been following mostly the tutuorial by Tundraman with elements of the Reranch tutorial thrown in. I suspect you are right that I did not start at low enough grit (as at least one problem). I was very concerned about cutting through the clear coat... and indeed saw a very small amount of color in the water as I sanded anyway. So I started at 1000, and as such probably left some larger-grain roughness in the finish.

Oh well. I'll just have to build another one and try again :roflmao:
Click to expand...

Yup, exactly! I've done 7 refins so far, and I learn something new each time. I definitely didn't do enough clear on my first one, and even though it turned out shiny, the finish is super thin and easily dinged. I could always take it apart and add more clear, but I'm content to play it as is.
 
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#1,089
Hello all. I want my blue, non-fender parts P to be red. I've read a lot of this and other threads but still have questions. I have no experience spray painting since painting bicycles when I was like 12 years old but I'm not worried about ruining any value so I can take a chance and follow the many good instructions here in this and other threads. However, what I am worried about is doing something wrong and creating even more work for myself to re-refinish. That leads me to want to send out for a refinish for under $300. However, I checked a couple of TB referred refinishers and each site implies stripping is necessary (even more money) yet it seems people here simply spray over sanded existing finishes.

1) Why are they insisting on stripping? Special paint?

2) Are there reputable refinishers who will spray over my current color?

3) if I do it myself, I'm not sure how patient/meticulous I can be in doing the at -least-once-suggested 4 coats of paint and 12 coats of poly. Some of you seem to be suggesting that you are doing far less work than that and getting nice results. Is poly, and/or lots of it, necessary for a nice shine?

4) If color matters, I want candy apple red... really brilliant red.

5) This body is string thru with the metal grommets on back... seems they would be quite impossible to mask so how would one accomplish a refinish in this case?

Should I just wait for a cheap, used red body to go up for sale (I'm seeing only new red ones that are crazy expensive) or would that be an eternity? Should I just buy a cheap candy apple red P and swap bodies and part out the rest (I love this neck, and the hardware and electronics are well-beyond Fender so I really love this bass except for the color). I am so not a gearhead, I just want to play (but I really want this bass to be red). Thanks in advance!
 
#1,093
@Ant Illington I've considered what to do about ferrules before, and I think sanding them after or letting the strings do the sanding job may be best. I've also considered posting my bass's paint process in full, which people could critique for better future jobs (I've made a lot of conclusions myself as well) and for others to see as well. Inserting my tuning key ferrules after painting chipped the finish. Paint makes the hole smaller (paint takes up space), so it's harder to insert the pieces back into.

But sandpaper is fine. Scuff it up pretty well or sanding it (no stripper) all the way to wood work. Sanding (minimum) is needed for paint to adhere. Going to wood keeps from building up too thick a coat or the old color showing through as it wears down in time.
 
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#1,095
DerekW said:
I've often wondered about the "need" to strip think myself. If there's a poly coating, why can't you just sand and prime? Seems like it would be a good base to start with.
Click to expand...

I've done several refins and never stripped. Just scuff sanded the poly clear, then primer/color/clear. Plenty of support for that method here and elsewhere. If I were getting one professionally done I'd probably want it stripped, but for DIY, no.
 
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#1,097
Has anybody tried water based spray paints like Liquitex? Been tearing my hair out trying to sucessfully tint Varathane water based poly with Transtint. It comes out a midnight purple in strong incandescent light, but looks black in sunlight. I'm nearly ready to throw in the towel and use rattlecan primer and jet black for color coats, topped with Varathane WB poly clearcoat. Rustoleum tech support says its ok to overcoat their black enamel with Varathane if its sanded with 220 grit for tooth, and allowed to cure for 7-10 days, but I'm hoping there is a water based spray out there of decent hardness.
 
#1,099
48thStreetCustom said:
I stumbled across this today and and thought you rattle can guys might be interested in it. It's a line of metal flake, candy and pearl paints in a rattle can.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Click to expand...
how odd that I just posted a link on another thread without being aware of this club or your post featuring my old buddy, Dennis Roth / Lil Daddy Roth Metal Flake
 
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#1,100
moonshinegtrs said:
Here is a guitar I painted using RustOleum 2X Lagoon; I used it because I really dug the color.
View attachment 2609511
Funny thing was I could not sell this guitar to save my life. It sat for several months at Carter's Vintage Guitars in Nashville then it went on the road with a couple players, the response was always the same "Love the guitar, the color... not so much". It did eventually sell, lesson learned; just because I like something doesn't mean the public will... I still like the color.
Moonshine :bassist:
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Dig your designs man! :thumbsup:
 
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