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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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Progress and questions!
Here's my body after 4 coats of RustOleum 2X "Lagoon"... I like the color!
First shot at color coats. Much work to do by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr
I got some runs along the edges at top and bottom (awkward places to reach with adequate spray distance in my spray booth), and somehow inexplicably a bare spot right across the neck pickup area. I need better lighting and more practice at controlling even spray coverage. And a larger paint booth. And lots more practice. Lots more practice.
Question, though. I got these little "flecks" that look like bits of sawdust got adhered to the paint while spraying, though there's no sawdust in the air (the garage has been sitting unoccupied for almost two weeks, and I did very little walking around that would stir anything up) and I cleaned the body thoroughly before spraying. I suspect they may actually be little "clumps" of paint from the spray can. Is that a thing? What can I do about it? I shook the can for like two minutes before starting, and gave it a quick shake every 30 seconds or so during spraying...
The plan going forward is to wait 48 hours, then sand the runs out, give the whole thing a quick roughening with 400 grit, and do another coat or two to fix the bare spots (and the sanded-out runs). Then another 48 hours (per the paint directions) before the clear coats.
On the clear coat: RustOleum 2X Gloss Clear? Or Minwax Polyurethane?
Here's my body after 4 coats of RustOleum 2X "Lagoon"... I like the color!
First shot at color coats. Much work to do by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr
I got some runs along the edges at top and bottom (awkward places to reach with adequate spray distance in my spray booth), and somehow inexplicably a bare spot right across the neck pickup area. I need better lighting and more practice at controlling even spray coverage. And a larger paint booth. And lots more practice. Lots more practice.
Question, though. I got these little "flecks" that look like bits of sawdust got adhered to the paint while spraying, though there's no sawdust in the air (the garage has been sitting unoccupied for almost two weeks, and I did very little walking around that would stir anything up) and I cleaned the body thoroughly before spraying. I suspect they may actually be little "clumps" of paint from the spray can. Is that a thing? What can I do about it? I shook the can for like two minutes before starting, and gave it a quick shake every 30 seconds or so during spraying...
The plan going forward is to wait 48 hours, then sand the runs out, give the whole thing a quick roughening with 400 grit, and do another coat or two to fix the bare spots (and the sanded-out runs). Then another 48 hours (per the paint directions) before the clear coats.
On the clear coat: RustOleum 2X Gloss Clear? Or Minwax Polyurethane?
It's good to warm up the can in a bathwater (94-100 F, or 32-40 C) temperature sink or bucket of water. I find it works especially well with anything acrylic-based, like Rustoleum Painter's Touch or their Speciality Lacquer (which I also recommend, especially for non-relic'ed looks).
For the clear coat... the Minwax Poly will most likely yellow things a bit. I'd go with a water-based spray. Varathane (same company as Rustoleum) makes two of them that you can find at Home Depot (one is Flecto, an old Canadian brand, and they have another water-based one). If not, I would suggest perhaps Rustoleum's Speciality Lacquer over their Painter's Touch Clear gloss, simply because the Painter's Touch is actually paint, and probably not as durable. Plus, the Painter's Touch does get brittle when it dries. Not sure that's what you want for the parts of the body that sees a lot of friction. Just make sure your paint layers are fully dry and cured.
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I discovered this site, that carries a LOT of Fenderesque (and some prettier colours than the old standards) acrylic, water-based paints. Granted, they're more for graffiti work, but those Molotow and Blue Flame paints have an enormous amount of pigmentation in their paints (and they're low pressure, so most likely more easily controlled).
I had bought some Liquitex (they're not exactly cheap) cans for a fiesta red build later on when I saw how much less these cans were, I slapped my forehead. Anyway, lots of colours to choose from:
Blue Flame line:
Invalid Link Removed
Molotow line (more premium):
Invalid Link Removed
They deliver everywhere in North America and most of the world. The price they sell their cans is pretty much the same price as the aforementioned Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X, so... yeah...
For the clear coat... the Minwax Poly will most likely yellow things a bit. I'd go with a water-based spray. Varathane (same company as Rustoleum) makes two of them that you can find at Home Depot (one is Flecto, an old Canadian brand, and they have another water-based one). If not, I would suggest perhaps Rustoleum's Speciality Lacquer over their Painter's Touch Clear gloss, simply because the Painter's Touch is actually paint, and probably not as durable. Plus, the Painter's Touch does get brittle when it dries. Not sure that's what you want for the parts of the body that sees a lot of friction. Just make sure your paint layers are fully dry and cured.
--------------------
I discovered this site, that carries a LOT of Fenderesque (and some prettier colours than the old standards) acrylic, water-based paints. Granted, they're more for graffiti work, but those Molotow and Blue Flame paints have an enormous amount of pigmentation in their paints (and they're low pressure, so most likely more easily controlled).
I had bought some Liquitex (they're not exactly cheap) cans for a fiesta red build later on when I saw how much less these cans were, I slapped my forehead. Anyway, lots of colours to choose from:
Blue Flame line:
Invalid Link Removed
Molotow line (more premium):
Invalid Link Removed
They deliver everywhere in North America and most of the world. The price they sell their cans is pretty much the same price as the aforementioned Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X, so... yeah...
Is this the same (or equivalent) stuff?
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...62-c-7967.htm?tid=-523466834412195685&ipos=10
Slightly different packaging but both have the same P/N of 200081. I'd defer to the P/N and say yes.
Krylon White primer, Krylon Ocean Breeze, Krylon Clear...
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Dang. I ALMOST went with that color! Bought a can then returned it when Mrs. TD preferred something greener.
Beautiful job!
Beautiful job!
Thanks, I appreciate that. It has a bit more green tint, but it isn't showing up in the pics.
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Clear coat went on last night... 8 light coats of Varathane Ultimate Interior Poly (thanks @nerkoids ).
Clear coat! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr
On initial inspection it looks pretty good. Very smooth, no runs. I will inspect again under low-angle sunlight this evening, but I don't expect to see any problems (fingers crossed!).
Now for the hardest part of the whole project... hanging it up for a couple of weeks before final polishing and assembly!
Clear coat! by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr
On initial inspection it looks pretty good. Very smooth, no runs. I will inspect again under low-angle sunlight this evening, but I don't expect to see any problems (fingers crossed!).
Now for the hardest part of the whole project... hanging it up for a couple of weeks before final polishing and assembly!
- Jan 28, 2009
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- Owner: Moonshine Custom Guitars
@nerkoids ; I have used polyurethane as a sealer before applying color...
Any idea if the water based Varathane would work for this type of application?
Thanks in advance,
Moonshine
Yes it would, although I find using an acrylic coating does a better job as a wood sealer. I've used cheap Krylon satin clear and it did a great job of sealing the wood (and considerably cheaper than poly) without causing any rippling underneath. I then used a Rustoleum primer underneath (usually white for light colours, grey for darker colours) then would spray my primary colour.
I may have to paint the thumb rest on my Surf Green bass to match. Really like how that looks! Did you just hit it with a couple coats of paint, or did you primer/color/clear? I have some paint left from that job, but no primer or clear.
First off, I made that finger rest out of a piece of Birch. It is very low profile so it won't interfere with slapping. I just painted it with color, and then clear coat.
Mine is plastic. I think I have an extra in my parts box, so I may try it with just color and see what happens.
I am a big audiophile, and open reel is a big part of my system. I have two 15 IPS machines and one 30 IPS machine, sound is totally amazing.
