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Ristola Club

The funds will be there in the future....just gotta get through school. :)

I'll definitely go with mahogany. I should've done that before but my curiosity got the best of me.....I'm sure I'll go with his mahogany/myrtle combo. It's the best he's built to date, by far. Mahogany/maple will get you similar results.

He's made a few basses like you're talking about for your P/J. The one's I've played were JJ basses though...and they were fabulous. Back then he used Barts, but I'm sure Nords would be nice for a more traditional sound if you wanted that.

Cool to hear, Andy. Here's hoping your funds will increase in the future, so you can get your new bass(es) built.

Have you decided on which body wood you're going with at this point?

Choosing between alder and mahogany was a really tough choice for me. I'm really happy with the alder body/bubinga top on my bass, -but for the JJ-6, I'd really like to try a mahogany body, perhaps Brian's mahogany/myrtle top combo. I remember both you and Brian were very happy with how that combo works.

I'm planning on having the P/J 5-string built first, I'll most likely go with a painted solid alder body on it; I'm thinking either a deep red or dark blue finish, chrome harware and a 5-piece maple/purpleheart neck with a birdseye maple fingerboard.

-Kind of a Brian Ristola-meets Leo Fender-meets a 5-string, if you will. :D

Happy Holidays to you and yours.
 
Also, a head's up....I just recorded a track last night for Berklee College of Music's next compilation record on Jazz Revelation Records. I used my Ristola 6 of course. Listening back to the track I was extremely pleased by the sound of the bass, even more so than I expected. Keep an eye out for the CD in a couple of months. The disc will be called Octaves. Invalid Link Removed
 
Also, a head's up....I just recorded a track last night for Berklee College of Music's next compilation record on Jazz Revelation Records. I used my Ristola 6 of course. Listening back to the track I was extremely pleased by the sound of the bass, even more so than I expected. Keep an eye out for the CD in a couple of months. The disc will be called Octaves. Invalid Link Removed

Congrats on the compilation track...I look forward to hearing it.

I was reading the specs for your Ristola and wondered what your string spacing is at the nut. Also, I'm curious as to how you are tuning your bass. I have come to realize that what I really want to have built is a six-stringer tuned EADGCF or DGCFBbEb. I just can't shake the fingerstyle guitar bug and want to approach a six-string bass guitar as a solo instrument.
 
Congrats on the compilation track...I look forward to hearing it.

I was reading the specs for your Ristola and wondered what your string spacing is at the nut. Also, I'm curious as to how you are tuning your bass. I have come to realize that what I really want to have built is a six-stringer tuned EADGCF or DGCFBbEb. I just can't shake the fingerstyle guitar bug and want to approach a six-string bass guitar as a solo instrument.

The nut is 2". That was based on a Modulus 6 string that I had played years ago.

My bass is tuned standard, B to C. My intention was to switch it to E to F tuning, but the bass just works with the B to C tuning. I have a feeling my next bass will be a 7 string so I can get both the B and the F.

For what you're wanting, a shorter scale would be perfect. Mine's a 33" scale, which would be perfect for the higher tuning.
 
The nut is 2". That was based on a Modulus 6 string that I had played years ago.

Thanks.

My bass is tuned standard, B to C. My intention was to switch it to E to F tuning, but the bass just works with the B to C tuning. I have a feeling my next bass will be a 7 string so I can get both the B and the F.

The 7 sounds like a great idea. My only concern would be muting that extra string...but that's just me. :)

For what you're wanting, a shorter scale would be perfect. Mine's a 33" scale, which would be perfect for the higher tuning.

Yes, I think 33" would be ideal for the C and F strings, but I am leaning towards 34" for a bit more clarity on the E string. Plus, the 34" scale would allow me to use a bit thinner gauge string on the E. I'm even considering a 36" scale in order to tune to DGCFBbEb and keep to a thinner gauge set of strings.

How did you determine 16.5mm for your bridge spacing? I am looking at 16mm (on center).
 
Thanks.

The 7 sounds like a great idea. My only concern would be muting that extra string...but that's just me. :)

Yes, I think 33" would be ideal for the C and F strings, but I am leaning towards 34" for a bit more clarity on the E string. Plus, the 34" scale would allow me to use a bit thinner gauge string on the E. I'm even considering a 36" scale in order to tune to DGCFBbEb and keep to a thinner gauge set of strings.

How did you determine 16.5mm for your bridge spacing? I am looking at 16mm (on center).

Do you play with a floating thumb, or do you anchor your thumb on a pickup or string? If you use a floating thumb than you shouldn't have trouble muting the strings after some time with more strings.

With my bass the B string is clear as day, and it's perfectly balanced with the rest of the strings. Of course if you listened to my bass and then Anthony Jackson's 36" scale bass you'd hear a difference. I lose some of the harmonic content with the shorter scale, however what I gain is a different character to the low end. It sounds warmer and slinkier; less wiry. If you get the Berklee Compilation when it comes out you'll hear it. I do go down to the low string once or twice and it sounds great.

At to the bridge spacing, I bought a cheap older Ibanez Soundgear bass that I knew had 16.5mm spacing, measured at the center. I presumed that that spacing would work really well for me but I wanted to be sure before I had Brian build my bass. It turned out to be just right. I haven't tried a more narrow spacing, but I assume I'd be fine with that as well. I don't slap at all so I don't need any room for that (I can slap just fine with the current spacing though, when I have to do it).

Where do you live? If you're near Boston you're more than welcome to check out my bass.
 
Do you play with a floating thumb, or do you anchor your thumb on a pickup or string? If you use a floating thumb than you shouldn't have trouble muting the strings after some time with more strings.

I tend to use a blend of a floating thumb and anchoring my thumb on a string. Initially, I began playing classical guitar and tend to apply those techniques to bass. I went form classical guitar to steel string acoustic...then on to an 8-string Stick Bass (Chapman Stick). Finally, I picked up electric bass guitar. Funny thing - my classical guitar instructor asked me if I was going to switch to electric bass because all of his students ended up switching to bass! Crazy...as I was contemplating doing just that when he asked me the question! I have never lost my love for the classical guitar though.:bassist:

With my bass the B string is clear as day, and it's perfectly balanced with the rest of the strings. Of course if you listened to my bass and then Anthony Jackson's 36" scale bass you'd hear a difference. I lose some of the harmonic content with the shorter scale, however what I gain is a different character to the low end. It sounds warmer and slinkier; less wiry. If you get the Berklee Compilation when it comes out you'll hear it. I do go down to the low string once or twice and it sounds great.

Thanks. I really do want to hear you playing on that track (not only to hear your custom Ristola but also your musicianship).

I know what you are saying about Anthony's tone and timbre. The longer 36" scale length would definitely allow for stronger amplitude of the higher order harmonics. Plus, Anthony uses some fairly high string tension which would add to his tonal equation.

That reminds me, what type/ brand/ gauge strings are you using on your Ristola?

At to the bridge spacing, I bought a cheap older Ibanez Soundgear bass that I knew had 16.5mm spacing, measured at the center. I presumed that that spacing would work really well for me but I wanted to be sure before I had Brian build my bass. It turned out to be just right. I haven't tried a more narrow spacing, but I assume I'd be fine with that as well. I don't slap at all so I don't need any room for that (I can slap just fine with the current spacing though, when I have to do it).

Thanks for the information...this really helps me out.

Where do you live? If you're near Boston you're more than welcome to check out my bass.

Your are very kind to make this offer! Unfortunately for me, I live way down in the panhandle and it would be quite a schlepp to get to Boston. Thanks again.
 
I'm very happy to help! It's been a really cool journey to find over the years what works best for me. My current bass is the closest I've gotten, but of course by my own nature I'm always thinking of ways to improve upon it. I'm close enough now though that I don't obsess about it. I have a beautiful instrument and I'm very thankful for that. I have been talking with a great bass player in California though, Steuart Liebig. He puts a piezo film under his bridge and mixes it with the mag pickups. If I can get the piezo made than I'll try that myself.

Also of note, I've been using my bass completely passive these days. I'm not left wanting in the end. I'm thinking of taking the electronics out of the bass all together.

For strings I use Fodera nickel wound strings, the 28-125 pack. I love those strings. I tried a couple others a few years back but came back to the Fodera's. I'm very happy with those.
 
I'm very happy to help! It's been a really cool journey to find over the years what works best for me. My current bass is the closest I've gotten, but of course by my own nature I'm always thinking of ways to improve upon it. I'm close enough now though that I don't obsess about it. I have a beautiful instrument and I'm very thankful for that. I have been talking with a great bass player in California though, Steuart Liebig. He puts a piezo film under his bridge and mixes it with the mag pickups. If I can get the piezo made than I'll try that myself.

I love to hear how artists fine-tune their instrument's design as they mature musically. Did I read somewhere that you are thinking of having a chambered bass in the future? I 'm torn between slight chambering and no chambering.

Also of note, I've been using my bass completely passive these days. I'm not left wanting in the end. I'm thinking of taking the electronics out of the bass all together.

This is definitely the direction I am heading when I have my next bass built. I want to have a single Q-tuner BL-6 medium Z ( Invalid Link Removed)placed in the typical MM position with only a sries/parallel/off switch - straight to the output jack. A very sensitive pickup with wide dynamic expression; this will allow me to really focus on developing my technique. Unfortunately, Erno Zwaan (the owner/maker of these pickups) is having to take a break from making them. I do hope that he will be able to return to making them soon.

For strings I use Fodera nickel wound strings, the 28-125 pack. I love those strings. I tried a couple others a few years back but came back to the Fodera's. I'm very happy with those.

Thanks.
 
I love to hear how artists fine-tune their instrument's design as they mature musically. Did I read somewhere that you are thinking of having a chambered bass in the future? I 'm torn between slight chambering and no chambering.



This is definitely the direction I am heading when I have my next bass built. I want to have a single Q-tuner BL-6 medium Z ( Invalid Link Removed)placed in the typical MM position with only a sries/parallel/off switch - straight to the output jack. A very sensitive pickup with wide dynamic expression; this will allow me to really focus on developing my technique. Unfortunately, Erno Zwaan (the owner/maker of these pickups) is having to take a break from making them. I do hope that he will be able to return to making them soon.



Thanks.

Yeah, my next bass I want to have a thick body and be chambered. Maybe a single pickup like you're talking about with a piezo. I'd LOVE for it to be headless as well as I'm thinking about having to travel after school.

The single pickup thing....check out Steuart Liebig's website. There's a pic of one of his basses. He has a custom Nordstrand (it was built by a guy that's no longer with them). The pickup has I think a J/P/J setup under a single case. He has a multitude of setting he can get with a couple of different switches, all passive. Very cool system.
 
Thanks guys. That was a wonderful learning experience. It was the first time I had played so many tunes with hybrid chords, so soloing was more challenging....and the tunes were quite tricky the way they were written. I had a great time! There's still a lot more work to do though!

Bass sounds good right? It's supportive but sings in an almost fretless fashion when played a certain way. That's the first gig I had done with my bass and thought....that sounds like a good bass! I was pleased.
 
Very nice Andy. Great playing and great tone. I think the bass really fits your style.

Thanks man. I think it's a great bass for me. I do wish it were a little warmer and had more natural low end, but I'm still very pleased. I'm going to make a few changes to it as time rolls on. I'm going to put a piezo film under the bridge to mix with the mags and take out the preamp, which I never use any more. I've thought about having the finish stripped. I think this bass would benefit from a thinner finish that can breathe more....something more protective than oil but in that range.