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Roscoe Club
- Thread starter JOME77
- Start date
A few weeks ago several of us had discussed changing out the proprietary Roscoe Hipshot Type A bridge for a standard Hipshot Type A bridge in an effort to lower the action. The Roscoe proprietary bridge has a varied staggered thickness of the bridge base that each bridge saddle rests on. Keith told me that this was done in an effort to allow the entire bridge saddle to contact the bridge base (for maximum sustain). The problem with this design is it can greatly affect your ability to obtain extremely low string height (depending on the angle of the neck pocket). This issue was corrected by Gard and Keith quite a few years ago (by changing the neck pocket angle) but basses built prior to that tooling change would need the neck pocket scribed in order to obtain real low action.
A few owners solved the problem by changing out the Roscoe proprietary Roscoe Hipshot Type A bridge for a standard Hipshot Type A bridge (the standard Hipshot Type A bridge has a much thinner bridge base plate and is more of smooth large radius).
@donahue mentioned it here:
@scubaduba recently asked some questions about it too (before changing one out on his LG. Custom with good results).
I knew that I had done it a few times but after thinking about it I believe that all 3 Roscoes that I had done it too were STD and STD Plus basses. I changed the bridge on those basses primarily because I just prefer the design of the Hipshot Type A bridge over the Type B bridge.
At any rate, I recently got my 2008 SKB-3005 Signature back from Keith from getting a Plek and a neck pocket scribe. I sent it with a shim installed and asked Keith to replicate the same action without the shim installed and he did. He re-angled the neck pocket so that the bass set’s up with my preferred action) without a shim).
However, all of the discussion prompted me to go ahead and order a standard Hipshot bridge just to see how it worked out on my Custom Signature. (Primarily because the B and E still couldn’t go any lower because the saddles were bottomed out). Well the standard Hipshot Type A bridge arrived yesterday and I installed it. I can now officially state that with the standard Hipshot Type A bridge I can literally lay the action on the frets (if I wanted to). And I don’t notice any les sustain or negative affect of the tone. If anything, the string angle from the ball end anchoring part of the bridge to the saddle has increased and in my mind that provides a better witness point for intonation.
Bottom line, if your Roscoe Custom plays OK but you’ve always wanted to get the action down a bit but some or all of your bridge saddles are all the way down, this might be the a solution for you (without getting a neck pocket scribe). Just purchase a standard Hipshot Type A bridge w/saddle spacing of .708 and you’ll be able to take your action down as low as you’d like. Now if you haven’t had a Plek or a good fret leveling done to your bass you may encounter some fret buzz but if your frets are properly leveled you’ll be amazed how low you can go with your action.
Here’s the bridge that I got:
Hipshot A Style 5 String Bass Bridge - Black / Aluminium / .708 | Fat Bass Tone, LLC | Reverb
A few owners solved the problem by changing out the Roscoe proprietary Roscoe Hipshot Type A bridge for a standard Hipshot Type A bridge (the standard Hipshot Type A bridge has a much thinner bridge base plate and is more of smooth large radius).
@donahue mentioned it here:
@scubaduba recently asked some questions about it too (before changing one out on his LG. Custom with good results).
I knew that I had done it a few times but after thinking about it I believe that all 3 Roscoes that I had done it too were STD and STD Plus basses. I changed the bridge on those basses primarily because I just prefer the design of the Hipshot Type A bridge over the Type B bridge.
At any rate, I recently got my 2008 SKB-3005 Signature back from Keith from getting a Plek and a neck pocket scribe. I sent it with a shim installed and asked Keith to replicate the same action without the shim installed and he did. He re-angled the neck pocket so that the bass set’s up with my preferred action) without a shim).
However, all of the discussion prompted me to go ahead and order a standard Hipshot bridge just to see how it worked out on my Custom Signature. (Primarily because the B and E still couldn’t go any lower because the saddles were bottomed out). Well the standard Hipshot Type A bridge arrived yesterday and I installed it. I can now officially state that with the standard Hipshot Type A bridge I can literally lay the action on the frets (if I wanted to). And I don’t notice any les sustain or negative affect of the tone. If anything, the string angle from the ball end anchoring part of the bridge to the saddle has increased and in my mind that provides a better witness point for intonation.
Bottom line, if your Roscoe Custom plays OK but you’ve always wanted to get the action down a bit but some or all of your bridge saddles are all the way down, this might be the a solution for you (without getting a neck pocket scribe). Just purchase a standard Hipshot Type A bridge w/saddle spacing of .708 and you’ll be able to take your action down as low as you’d like. Now if you haven’t had a Plek or a good fret leveling done to your bass you may encounter some fret buzz but if your frets are properly leveled you’ll be amazed how low you can go with your action.
Here’s the bridge that I got:
Hipshot A Style 5 String Bass Bridge - Black / Aluminium / .708 | Fat Bass Tone, LLC | Reverb
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Nice write up, Joe. 3 points of clarification. 1) This was not an issue on every bass prior to "retooling." I think you mentioned it was an issue on 3 of 30 basses you previously owned? 2) Not every bassist prefers super low action. Many prefer higher action. 3) Not all bassists play the low B string at the 12th fret and above. It's harder to reach, and if reached, other note locations on the neck likely have better tone.
Great info. Thanks for sharing, Joe! 1 more thing: Roscoe uses aluminum bridges, not heavier brass, right?
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Good points Fritz. And yes, the Roscoe bridge is aluminum base with steel saddles (that's what I replaced it with too).
And just for additional clarification. My 2016 Roscoe Custom PJ has really low action and it could be lowered even more (even with the Roscoe proprietary bridge). It's all about the angle of the neck pocket.
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If you get a .708 the holes line up. Plug and play.
I was the lucky guy who scored the LPB Custom PJ5. It is a great looking bass with a large variety of tones. The Norstands are awesome. Preamp is similar to the Sadowsky with the additional mid options..
Unfortunately, the 19mm is a little too much for my hands
Looking to trade this for the right a 5 string LG, Zon Sonus ( Or Sonus Special) or NYC Sadowsky PJ5.
Unfortunately, the 19mm is a little too much for my hands
Looking to trade this for the right a 5 string LG, Zon Sonus ( Or Sonus Special) or NYC Sadowsky PJ5.
I concur with Joe; nice job here. I replaced my signature 6 fretless bridge this year, plug and play, and achieved more adjustability. I also got the full brass bridge instead of the aluminum, just for 'fun'.
Is that bass working out for you? One of these days, when we finally get together and check out each other’s gear, I’ll be interested to try that one (assuming my 6 string itch isn’t gone by then).
It is working pretty nicely. I still have to dial in the high C a bit...I was playing a melody line 2 weeks ago, and I noticed a long-tone high F or G only lasted for about 1 second. I've got to figure out if I can change my technique up there or if the action needs to be raised/etc.
I tell you, though: when I went to record at CRC, or play for a small church gathering earlier today, I took the Century standard plus fretless 5, not the signature 6 fretless. Gotta work on that habit.
Also: I can't wait for our hang!
(Of course, now I’m thinking of joining the matching wooden cover club with Joe and Shane, but maybe I’ll enjoy the bass a bit as is).
Do it Matt! You need something else to be waiting on!
By the way, if you ordered the wooden covers, what wood would you go with? Mine match the wenge in the wedge neck (and IMO blend nicely with the enhance ash grain of the body). Since your neck has the purpleheart stringer would you go with that?
Yeah, I think so, although supposedly purpleheart fades over time... I would be tempted by matching ash ones, but sadly I think they'd be obvious if they were the slightest bit off, so... trying to be content with the gear I have now for a bit, but it isn't easy, especially with enablers like youDo it Matt! You need something else to be waiting on!
By the way, if you ordered the wooden covers, what wood would you go with? Mine match the wenge in the wedge neck (and IMO blend nicely with the enhance ash grain of the body). Since your neck has the purpleheart stringer would you go with that?
Yeah, I think so, although supposedly purpleheart fades over time... I would be tempted by matching ash ones, but sadly I think they'd be obvious if they were the slightest bit off, so... trying to be content with the gear I have now for a bit, but it isn't easy, especially with enablers like you
Just think Matt, for $85 you can have beautiful matching wooden covers to complete your beautiful handmade boutique bass. And you can get back in the “waiting queue” for 6-8 weeks with Roger. I know that you’re comfortable there! It’s normal for you!
Ouch. Although it is oddly calming NOT to be waiting on anything to be delivered/news on something and actually playing my basses. Although one of these days I should get a pedal board for all of these pedals... I was googling some this weekend and the exotic wood ones get up there pretty quick- may have to settle on a plain one of thoseJust think Matt, for $85 you can have beautiful matching wooden covers to complete your beautiful handmade boutique bass. And you can get back in the “waiting queue” for 6-8 weeks with Roger. I know that you’re comfortable there! It’s normal for you!
$85 more for back covers and multiple 2-week periods to wait for something that goes on the back! 
Just think Matt, for $85 you can have beautiful matching wooden covers to complete your beautiful handmade boutique bass. And you can get back in the “waiting queue” for 6-8 weeks with Roger. I know that you’re comfortable there! It’s normal for you!
I wouldn't hold my breathe on 6-8 weeks. I've been waiting since Thanksgiving for a set and still haven't gotten them. Was told months ago next week lol.
It's all about the total package$85 more for back covers and multiple 2-week periods to wait for something that goes on the back!
Ouch. Although it is oddly calming NOT to be waiting on anything to be delivered/news on something and actually playing my basses. Although one of these days I should get a pedal board for all of these pedals... I was googling some this weekend and the exotic wood ones get up there pretty quick- may have to settle on a plain one of those
Shane @Bassworship1 and Arthur @Afc70 can point you in the right direction for a really nice custom pedal board and the guy is located in Georgia about 40 miles from me!
