Nice job
Some people also use the ball-ends from their discarded strings for that, but yours looks more discreet.
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Some people also use the ball-ends from their discarded strings for that, but yours looks more discreet.
You know, I never thought of it that way....but you're right!Cool idea! So I guess what you're saying is even your balls have nuts!
So how did those Chromes work out for you? I did a gig tonight and wasn't digging round wounds.
I've been playing on this model of chromes for the past year: first on a PBass, then a Squier Jag SS, and now the SG. I absolutely love them on the SG. It's worth noting, however, that I've never liked rounds on anything. Also, I've never tried anything other than chromes, like tapes. Oh, and I'm insanely inexperienced when it comes to playing bass...so, YMMV.
Btw, I stole your nylon nut trick. Simple and seemingly effective...and much cheaper than the mod bar. Thanks for the idea!
I just strung some DR Flatwounds on the SG....simply because I had them kicking around from another project. They sound kind of meh, but I didn't try them at volume or with a band.
I had Chromes on a Squier Jag SS as well and it sounded great. Time to order some Chromes for the SG.
I currently have DR Highbeams on one SG and D'addario Black Nylon tapes on the other. Had Labella Deep talking flats on the one with highbeams now. I had flats on just about all my basses up until recently before my highbeam kick. Chromes are ok but I really prefer Labella's ymmv. Took the flats off because I wanted the SG's to be polar opposites of each other tone wise. So far its worked out pretty good. I do miss the flats though. I won't lie but the highbeams have been great. The tapes though aren't going anywhere lol.
I use La Bella silver tapes on my SS Jaguar and other short scale basses, they really rock! I've never been able to find a flatwound that I liked both the sound and tension on. The Silver tapes are much brighter than black tapes which I use on my jazz basses. The silvers are kind of the stainless steel string of the tape wound world. To my ears they sound close to a very broken in set of Chromes (which I've always considered to be a very bright flat that takes a long while to break in).
I say all that because I'm a tape lover, they just seem to strike the perfect balance of tension, tone, volume and left hand forgiveness. I've tried La Bella, Rotos, Fender and D'addaros and keep coming back to the La Bella's. Once I get a new nut installed on my blonde SG I'm thinking about giving the La Bella gold tapes a spin. I haven't tried tapes on any of my Gibsons yet and I suspect the SG will be a perfect candidate for the test. The gold tapes are supposed to be even brighter than the silvers and very close to nickel rounds in tone. I guess that would make them the cobalt string of the tapewound world. Should look nice on this one...
I say all that because I'm a tape lover, they just seem to strike the perfect balance of tension, tone, volume and left hand forgiveness. I've tried La Bella, Rotos, Fender and D'addaros and keep coming back to the La Bella's. Once I get a new nut installed on my blonde SG I'm thinking about giving the La Bella gold tapes a spin. I haven't tried tapes on any of my Gibsons yet and I suspect the SG will be a perfect candidate for the test. The gold tapes are supposed to be even brighter than the silvers and very close to nickel rounds in tone. I guess that would make them the cobalt string of the tapewound world. Should look nice on this one...
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I've been wanting to try out some tapes, but I only play once or twice a week, so it takes a while to get used to strings and then evaluate them. I believe I've decided to give them a try this next time around though.
Well I found a good enough deal on a 2014 SG Special that if I love it, fantastic, and if I don't, I should be able to recoup it. Can't wait to try it out - too bad it won't be here in time for my next audition this weekend though!
Man, you just reminded me of one of the best sound and feel experiences I ever had with a bass (which sadly was not mine) - Some 15+ years ago I was farting around at a local guitar shop and picked up a Mustang bass with black tapes on it - no idea if they were Fender tapes or what brand - and it was just fantastic, I couldn't put it down. I don't remember what I had for a main bass at the time - I think I might have been on a P-lyte - and I don't remember what stopped me from buying that taped Mustang!
I don't know why I haven't just switched to tapes all the time. My Ibanez has rounds on it that just sing, but I keep the tone control at 50% all the time; I feel like tapewound strings would eliminate the super bright artifacts that I am countering with that setting. Plus they feel so damn good.
Give em a try. To my ears even the brightest tapes (which I think are La Bella golds) are not as bright as a new set of chrome flats. What's even better is that there's a huge selection in the tape market these days, so you can really tailor the feel and sound to your liking.
Do yourself a favor and reach out to TB member Jason at BassStringsOnLine. He can give you sound advice on how each of the different tapes stack up to each other as well as a nice discount for TB members.
One other thing to consider with a first time tape trial is that they are much larger in diameter than normal strings. It doesn't really take any getting used to it but what it does mean is that the slots in your nut may need to be enlarged to fit the strings properly. I get around this by selecting light gauge tapes which are close to normal strings in diameter. That also makes them even more left hand friendly (easier bends, faster fretting).
So if you aren't sure if tapes are for you but you want to try some to find out - go with a light gauge and avoid modding your nut.
Hi all, I hope you can help.
Firstly, this will prob be a long term project so don't expect me to have anything to show off any time soon.
My first bass was a mid 70s Japanese thing in a Gibsonesque shape, similar to EB-0/3 but Ash coloured and no pickguard. I can't remember brand and can't find a photo, but for some reason Aria seems to ring a bell. I have asked my sister to go through the old family albums to find a photo for me...
Anyway, I want a replica at some point or at least something 'in the spirit of'.
Bear in mind that my handyman skills are near zero... I would not be able to form a piece of wood into the required shape and rout holes for the electrics.
So, if I was able to get a Cherry EB0/3 or body and stripped the cherry colour off would I be able to finish it to be pale colour like the mahogany on the Epi Thunderbird Pro in Natual Oil (NO) spec?
Like this Epiphone Thunderbird Pro-IV Bass
Is there a hole under the Epi EBs pick guard? Or just the solid wood?
Does this sound like a sensible approach, Refresh an existing body/bass ? It also seems to me that it may be a more economic approach than buying a new replacement body from a Warmoth style operation.
Firstly, this will prob be a long term project so don't expect me to have anything to show off any time soon.
My first bass was a mid 70s Japanese thing in a Gibsonesque shape, similar to EB-0/3 but Ash coloured and no pickguard. I can't remember brand and can't find a photo, but for some reason Aria seems to ring a bell. I have asked my sister to go through the old family albums to find a photo for me...
Anyway, I want a replica at some point or at least something 'in the spirit of'.
Bear in mind that my handyman skills are near zero... I would not be able to form a piece of wood into the required shape and rout holes for the electrics.
So, if I was able to get a Cherry EB0/3 or body and stripped the cherry colour off would I be able to finish it to be pale colour like the mahogany on the Epi Thunderbird Pro in Natual Oil (NO) spec?
Like this Epiphone Thunderbird Pro-IV Bass
Is there a hole under the Epi EBs pick guard? Or just the solid wood?
Does this sound like a sensible approach, Refresh an existing body/bass ? It also seems to me that it may be a more economic approach than buying a new replacement body from a Warmoth style operation.
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Picked this EB0 up in a trade a few months back. Owner thought it was a 63 due to the serial number, but based on the tuners and side jack I think it's a 69. Either way, she's fun to play.
Well Gibson was known to re-use serial numbers.
So the early 60's ones were reused in the late 60s/early 70s
If the bass still has the original pots they may be more useful to help date it.
I'm not sure if the Epi version has a rout under the pg, but my Gibby does not. I can't tell you, though, if you'll be able to get the color as light as the T-Bird you posted. Have you tried posting your question in the Luthiers Corner? They could also give you tips on stripping the paint from the Epi body.Hi all, I hope you can help.
Firstly, this will prob be a long term project so don't expect me to have anything to show off any time soon.
My first bass was a mid 70s Japanese thing in a Gibsonesque shape, similar to EB-0/3 but Ash coloured and no pickguard. I can't remember brand and can't find a photo, but for some reason Aria seems to ring a bell. I have asked my sister to go through the old family albums to find a photo for me...
Anyway, I want a replica at some point or at least something 'in the spirit of'.
Bear in mind that my handyman skills are near zero... I would not be able to form a piece of wood into the required shape and rout holes for the electrics.
So, if I was able to get a Cherry EB0/3 or body and stripped the cherry colour off would I be able to finish it to be pale colour like the mahogany on the Epi Thunderbird Pro in Natual Oil (NO) spec?
Like this Epiphone Thunderbird Pro-IV Bass
View attachment 735358
Is there a hole under the Epi EBs pick guard? Or just the solid wood?
Does this sound like a sensible approach, Refresh an existing body/bass ? It also seems to me that it may be a more economic approach than buying a new replacement body from a Warmoth style operation.
no I haven't but I will. Good tip, thanks.
My thought is that that Tbird is remarkably pale for mahogany... but then i know naught about wood and woodworking.
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