Show your Bill Fitzmaurice cab

[mchildree]

I'd rate my woodworking skills as a 5-6 as well. You could easily build an Omni 10 or 10.5...and you wouldn't even need any of your electronics skill. The Omni 15 is only a little more involved, and you'll need to build your crossover circuits for that one...not a big deal though.

 

[bryanjnkns]

hmmm. Not unless BFM infringed on the the Accuswitch patent.

What i meant was, when you build it or have it built you have the option to wire it whichever way you want. For a 4 ohm load use two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel. For an 8ohm cab, you can either use 4ohm drivers wired in series or 16ohm drivers wired in parallel.

 

[billfitzmaurice]

What i meant was, when you build it or have it built you have the option to wire it whichever way you want. For a 4 ohm load use two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel. For an 8ohm cab, you can either use 4ohm drivers wired in series or 16ohm drivers wired in parallel.

That makes the assumption that 4 and 16 ohm drivers are common, but they aren't. Driver manufacturers have tightened their belts, and to minimize inventory levels impedances other than 8 ohms are hard to find.

 

[Maurice Carr]

Honda CRV (mini SUV) .....My woodworking skills fall in the middle - around a 5-6. I own the plans to the DR250, and I don't think I could do a decent job building one as first project, not solo anyway.

Well, my main weapon of choice is a 250A Mig Welder yet I can build a DR, you'd be surprised how relatively easy it is so long as you can follow plans step by step. If you can cut, nail, screw and glue wood, you can build a DR. You just need a few more tools.

Anyhow, leaving the DR250 out of the equation the options are;

1) Omni 12 - 60 pounds and measuring 24 inches wide, 28 inches high and 15 inches deep, or
2) Omni 15 - 70 pounds and measuring 26.5 inches wide, 30 inches high and 17 inches deep

These are stand alone - all in one - cabs with crossover. Advantage = they'll do all you want adequately, disadvantage = always have that size of cab to lug around. The O15 outperforms the O12 but is the bigger cab - obviously.

3) Otop15 - this is as close as you get to a DR250 for an easy build - won't go quite as low as the Omni12/15 - 22x22x18 inch 45 pound. It will do most of your gigs however and sound real sweet

4) You could add a T39 sub 39" high 20 inch wide 19.5 inch deep 60lb ( can be laid on it's side ) to the OTOP15 with passive crossover - this would then be the loudest and best sounding of the options - but a lot of stuff to lug around. Use the T39 for the real serious gigs and just the OTOP 15 for stage monitor, practice and gigs up to 300 people say

5) Omni10 - light, will do med size gigs say 400 people, sounds really nice with the two D.L.II2510's and can be used alone ( would not quite do what your existing cabs will do together but would sound nicer ). Used with the T39 ( crossedover ) - technically not quite with the Otop15/T39 combo but close enough for what you may need and would outperform your existing rig by quite a stretch.

To summarise, work out what will fit into your wagon, decide if you want the versatility of the"building blocks" top and sub or you prefer just on fix does all.

If it were me ( without the DR250 ) - O10 and T39

Hope that helps you.

Mo

 

[seakamp]

I'm currently using 2 Omni 15 tops and they KICK ASS!

 

[phillm47]

Well, my main weapon of choice is a 250A Mig Welder yet I can build a DR, you'd be surprised how relatively easy it is so long as you can follow plans step by step. If you can cut, nail, screw and glue wood, you can build a DR. You just need a few more tools.

Anyhow, leaving the DR250 out of the equation the options are;

1) Omni 12 - 60 pounds and measuring 24 inches wide, 28 inches high and 15 inches deep, or
2) Omni 15 - 70 pounds and measuring 26.5 inches wide, 30 inches high and 17 inches deep

These are stand alone - all in one - cabs with crossover. Advantage = they'll do all you want adequately, disadvantage = always have that size of cab to lug around. The O15 outperforms the O12 but is the bigger cab - obviously.

3) Otop15 - this is as close as you get to a DR250 for an easy build - won't go quite as low as the Omni12/15 - 22x22x18 inch 45 pound. It will do most of your gigs however and sound real sweet

4) You could add a T39 sub 39" high 20 inch wide 19.5 inch deep 60lb ( can be laid on it's side ) to the OTOP15 with passive crossover - this would then be the loudest and best sounding of the options - but a lot of stuff to lug around. Use the T39 for the real serious gigs and just the OTOP 15 for stage monitor, practice and gigs up to 300 people say

5) Omni10 - light, will do med size gigs say 400 people, sounds really nice with the two D.L.II2510's and can be used alone ( would not quite do what your existing cabs will do together but would sound nicer ). Used with the T39 ( crossedover ) - technically not quite with the Otop15/T39 combo but close enough for what you may need and would outperform your existing rig by quite a stretch.

To summarise, work out what will fit into your wagon, decide if you want the versatility of the"building blocks" top and sub or you prefer just on fix does all.

If it were me ( without the DR250 ) - O10 and T39

Hope that helps you.

Mo

...and with the DR250, or DR series included?

 

[Maurice Carr]

...and with the DR250, or DR series included?

If you are a "He who dies with the biggest toys wins" type of guy - DR280 on T39, otherwise DR250 ( DL II2510 loaded ) on a T39 loaded with recommended 12" driver.

The DR250 sounds the absolute best in my opinion.

I tried my DR280/T39 the other day - it's like being able to drive an Abrams tank down the motorway that has the handling finess of a formula one racecar

Mo

 

[bassksun]

Well since you're offereing.....

I currently own a GK 212NEO and GK 115NEO speaker cabs, and push them with a GK 1001RBII. The 212NEO covers 98% of the things I do. With 115 added it sounds HUGE, but typically is not necessary. Primary music styles are funk, jazz/fusion, classic rock/blues. I use a five string bass as well.

What cabinet(s) would you recommend to me?

You and I have just about the same musical profile. I built an O12 pushed with the GK. You can expect clarity not the big "boom" that happens with the 15 IMHO. Also the O12 will give you midrange. I a/b my O12 with a Ashdown 15 and a 212 an EA I think it was at my local music dealer.

I went with the O12 because:
the 15 had a HUGE low end but the mid range was weak. Forget high end.
The 212 had outstanding mids and highs but the bottom was flat sounding.

The O12 is balanced.

For funk I dial in a little more mid with my pre and use a compressor set to the lowest level.

For Jazz I flatten the pre, no compression and roll off the treble a bit.

For Classic Rock I boost highs and mids on the pre add compression to 2 and dig in.

For Metal.I dunno but I guess you will need a couple of O10s.

I disconnected the horn on the O12. The highs are laser like! I gotta get an L Pad someday.

Soooo, the cab responds to what I put INTO it. Beware, if you are used to gritty sound it's not gonna happen!

I have an outdoor gig next week and I wish I had 2 O12s!!

I hope MY experience helps.

 

[pedro]

[[Beware, if you are used to gritty sound it's not gonna happen!

Even if you want to? What about if you increase the gain/boost?

 

[bassksun]

[[Beware, if you are used to gritty sound it's not gonna happen!

Even if you want to? What about if you increase the gain/boost?

Oooops! I meant that You have to add grit through gain/boost or some other means. I use a Digitech Bass Driver.

Don't expect the cab to have a gritty edgy sound. It's a HiFi cab.

 

[pedro]

Whew!! You had me nervous for a sec.

 

[bassksun]

 

[GlennW]

Just won 4 yards of this on ebay - it's destined for an Omni15.
I haven't seen one with tolex. I think I'm going to try to wrap the front and sides in two sections overlapping them on the sides where the big hole is in the front.

 

[pedro]

I was talking to Bill Dickinson about building me one of the BF cabinets and was thinking of having him do it in tweed.

 

[billfitzmaurice]

Tolex and tweed are both options, as is a full vintage style grille ala the OTop 12 in this thread.
http://billfitzmaurice.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3058

 

[pedro]

Bill I assume that you can do that on the DR's too, yes?

 

[Petebass]

Bill I assume that you can do that on the DR's too, yes?

You can do it with any speaker as long as the material used allows the sound waves to flow freely.

I wouldn't do it. IMO it takes some of the "WOW" factor out of it. You'll get less strange looks from inquiring minds and less people coming over to ask questions about you rig. Unless of course that's exactly why you're doing it............

 

[GlennW]

I thought about a full front grille, but was concerned that the 1x2 frame would encroach too much on the big opening in the bottom.

 

[billfitzmaurice]

Bill I assume that you can do that on the DR's too, yes?

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[bgavin]

I do all my builds with 63% free air grille from Penn-Elcom.

The downside is the expense. The 4x8 sheets are on back order as of this writing, and the shipping costs are horrific.

An alternative is doing the vintage grille cloth thing. Marko Ursin recently finished a dual OTop12 and finished it with Tolex and cloth grille with white piping. Stunning look, kick-ass performance in a "vintage" looking box.

Link to Marko Ursin's Vintage OTop12