Good day Talkbass. This guide is not meant as a slight on the already great guide on here, I have just found myself repeating the same post over 100 times so I figured I might as well make my own guide and link it from here on out. I am far from an electronics expert; I like to consider myself a shielding expert. I have shielded many basses from several major manufacturers and have yet to meet a bass I couldn't silence. This guide will only cover shielding, not soldering tips, wiring help or common sense (like soldering over a cloth, not your bass.) Please read the entire guide before trying anything and feel free to PM me with any questions you might have. I personally hate hum and would like to remove it from every bass I can. I learned a lot of what I know from here, so thanks for the help and sorry if I steal your tips and publish them here. A simple diagnosis can tell you if your bass has a shielding hum or a grounding hum: If your bass has a hum that goes away when you touch the strings/bridge/metal than you have a shielding issue. This guide will resolve the issue. If your bass has a hum that gets louder when you touch strings/metal/bridge you have a grounding issue. Please refer elsewhere for help on the issue, but I would check your ground connection under the bridge just for good measure. If your bass has a hum that remains constant regardless of touching metal/strings/bridge you have a deeper issue, although I would check the ground wire coming from the bridge in this case as well. It might be 60hz hum if you are using singles coils. Shielding does not address 60hz hum. Additionally, if your bass makes a popping sound when you touch metal/strings/bridge you are hearing static electricity discharging. Shielding will resolve the issue. As far as I know RF interference issues only arise with passive pickup basses. Just because your bass has a pre-amp does not mean it has active pickups. Some basses, such as the Musicman Stingray, are passive with an active pre-amp. I do not shield the battery cavity if it is separate from the control cavity on this style of bass and I have had success every time. I have never shielded a bass with a pre-amp in a separate cavity. I would think it requires shielding. This guide will follow my job on a Fender Standard Precision bass using conductive paint. You will need to solder at least one connection but you could get away with copper tape and no solder if you are not comfortable with soldering on this particular job(not recommended.) This job is extremely easy and the perfect time for somebody to learn how to solder. Solder will also stay permanently. As a person that has used aluminum tape, copper tape, and conductive paint, I prefer conductive paint for several reasons. Paint requires less effort and time, leaves a cleaner job, and it will not lose it's adhesion over time. Paint can also be put in much tighter spaces. I have experienced basses with such tight pickup routes tape would never fit and would just bunch up when the pickups were re-installed. All the fundamentals are the same regardless of shielding material used and pickup arrangement. If you are paying a pro to do this job demand they use conductive paint, if they don't take your work elsewhere. I would never pay for a copper tape job but that is just me. Supplies: 1) Shielding material - I recommend conductive paint, copper tape, or aluminum tape (in that order.) 2) Copper tape (if not being used as primary material.) 3) 1 ground screw and eyelet, the smaller the better. If you need to get multiple wires on it, do not go too small but take the screw length into account. This can be done with copper foil instead if you do not want to screw into your body. 4) Wire - you will need one wire per cavity. Optionally, you will need one wire for each pickup cover. As far as gauge, if it isn't hair-thin it should be fine. 5) Painters tape if using conductive paint. TAKE NOTE OF WHAT TAPE IS SAFE FOR YOUR PARTICULAR BASS! I cannot stress this enough. If your bass is finished with poly it will be fine but nitro basses react to painters tape. Please take caution. Tools: 1) Soldering Iron 2) Screwdriver for ground screw 3) Scissors/X-acto knife 4) Tools to remove covers and access electronics 5) Electrical tape may be required *)I highly recommend having acetone on hand if using conductive paint. POLY ONLY!! NOT AN OPTION FOR NITRO FINISHES!! Acetone will destroy a nitro finish. For the Jazz bass supplement please click here. For the Stingray supplement please click here.