Great thread. I am a drummer too (a much better drummer than bass player!) and it’s great to read all of your different perspectives. I have played classic rock, big band swing and Latin jazz, small combo jazz, country, 80’s top 40 pop/rock, and a variety of church worship in different settings ranging from “play as loud as you want” to “play as soft as possible.” I have played acoustic drum kits, electronic drum kits, and hybrid kits utilizing a mix of electronic and acoustic drums and cymbals. Lots of great suggestions in this thread! Here are a few suggestions I came up with while reading through the thread and thinking about ways your drummer might be able to make some improvements.
Good drum heads are the fastest and cheapest way to improve the tone and tuning range of even the least expensive kit. The stock drum heads that come with low to mid-priced kits are generally very thin and difficult to tune evenly around the rim. This results in a ringy, undefined tone that can make a drummer feel less confident and play too quietly, or too loudly in an effort to force the drums to sound better. I recommend Evans, Remo, or Aquarian, going with thick single ply or double ply. Evans are my favorite. Some drums come stock with “Remo U.T.” heads. These are cheap, thin heads made overseas and branded with the Remo name. Avoid or replace them!
Good cymbals are key to a great sounding kit and consistent, accurate volume control. When I was giving drum lessons, I would convince my students (and in most cases, their parents) to buy used cast cymbals made with B20 bronze (such as Zildjian A’s/K’s, or Sabian AA/AAX/HH/HHX, or higher end Paiste). I recommended medium weight hi hats and ride, and a thin to medium-thin crash. Cheap, thick stamped budget level cymbals make it hard to control volume, and they have overbearing, unmusical overtones coupled with an excessively long decay. In other words, they hurt your ears!
It’s crucial to strike the drum or cymbal with a solid hit and good rebound in the sweet spot, regardless of how hard or soft you hit. This is most important and most noticeable on the snare drum. That will determine how well the band can hear it, how much control you have of dynamics and overall volume, and how musical the tone will sound in the mix.
Most important of all, as many of you have emphasized, is tempo. I used to set a timer for my students, set the metronome at a certain bpm, and have them play a simple 4/4 beat with straight 8ths on the hi hat, kick on 1 and 3, and snare on 2 and 4. They would start off having to play for one minute without rushing or dragging, and when (not if) they messed up I’d reset the timer and they’d have to start over. When they were ready, I’d have them play a more complex pattern for a longer interval, and then vary the tempo on the metronome from much slower to much faster.
Long-winded post, sorry! Just some pointers off the top of my head to keep in mind for possible conversations with your drummer to hopefully lead to some improvement in volume, tone, and timekeeping.