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Soldering Iron Issues
- Thread starter Joey Cash
- Start date
If you're concerned about the environment, lead-free solder is not a bad thing, but it is definitely harder to use and for a beginner you'd be much better off with plain ol' tin/lead solder.
As the others said, make sure you use rosin core.
63/37 is the ideal alloy, but there is no discernible difference between that and 60/40. Either one will work just fine.
For guitar work, my favorite solder is Multicore (I can't remember which series) and my second favorite is Kester '44' series 63/37.
Any diameter in the neighborhood of .035" will be fine for guitar work and most any other electronic work.
The 40W iron you have now is fine to learn on, but you'll want to get a better, regulated iron down the road.
As the others said, make sure you use rosin core.
63/37 is the ideal alloy, but there is no discernible difference between that and 60/40. Either one will work just fine.
For guitar work, my favorite solder is Multicore (I can't remember which series) and my second favorite is Kester '44' series 63/37.
Any diameter in the neighborhood of .035" will be fine for guitar work and most any other electronic work.
The 40W iron you have now is fine to learn on, but you'll want to get a better, regulated iron down the road.
Get a little bit better of a soldering iron and when the tip gets a little messed up sand it with sand paper and with sand paper you can keep the tip clean and sharp.
If you do a lot of soldering, buy a decent soldering station for around $90 and use high quality solder. It's one of the best tools I have ever bought! Cheapie $7 irons are terrible!
Xytronic LF 2000 High Power Lead Free Digital Soldering Station | eBay
Xytronic LF 2000 High Power Lead Free Digital Soldering Station | eBay
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Would it help if he rode a skateboard, said, "Dude" a lot, and they had cartoon characters that screamed.
Glad you enjoy old company training videos like I do. You can not watch just one.
I'm in the "use whatever" camp -- I have a simple old 40w iron, old solder, newer solder, etc. I've sanded and re-tinned tips to clean them, have bought copper tips that had to be tinned, etc. I also like using tinning powder. Overall I don't think anything was inadequate for the job. I like wedge tips when working on pots, but pencil tips for most other stuff. If your budget allows high quality tools, get 'em. But I've never be able to justify the cost to myself (I build pedals, and do my own guitar electronics, and stuff around my home).
Lots of good info in earlier posts, but I'll add this: you can destroy cheap pots by overheating them. If you have to solder to the back of a pot, and you're really heating it up and struggling to get solder to stick, if you just keep the iron on longer and longer, you can destroy the internals of that pot. It happens a lot quicker on cheaper pots which have thinner, cheaper materials inside them. So as you are learning the skills, if you have to solder the back of a pot (that doesn't already have a blob on it that you can just reattach to), try to get some junk to practice on first (old, broken electronics can be a great source of practice materials).
Lots of good info in earlier posts, but I'll add this: you can destroy cheap pots by overheating them. If you have to solder to the back of a pot, and you're really heating it up and struggling to get solder to stick, if you just keep the iron on longer and longer, you can destroy the internals of that pot. It happens a lot quicker on cheaper pots which have thinner, cheaper materials inside them. So as you are learning the skills, if you have to solder the back of a pot (that doesn't already have a blob on it that you can just reattach to), try to get some junk to practice on first (old, broken electronics can be a great source of practice materials).
I appreciate the input. The whole reason I came to replacing the pots at all was because while was replacing the input jack I'm pretty sure I held too much heat on one of the pots and ruined that. So I was definitely planning on practicing on the old one before applying any heat to new ones.
You mentioned sanding tips and re-tinning... Would I be able to get away with grinding the tip I pictured in my original post until it was flat again?
By the way, if you're soldering by applying solder directly to the iron and either 'painting' the connection, or dripping melted solder onto the connection, you're doing it wrong. It will be more likely to break or just give you a non-conductive connection. Solder should be applied to the wire, which has been heated by the iron, so that it flows over the connection.
For pots and other delicate components (diodes, etc.) that might be damaged by heat, you can use a flat, needle-nosed copper clip, positioned between the connection and the component itself, to act as a heat sink and prevent the component from overheating.
For pots and other delicate components (diodes, etc.) that might be damaged by heat, you can use a flat, needle-nosed copper clip, positioned between the connection and the component itself, to act as a heat sink and prevent the component from overheating.
I like using the Weller with the threaded heating elements. I'm not sure if they still make them. I've always used 60/40.
I didn't see anyone mention, you can use steel wool to clean your tip. You don't need to buy any specialty tool.
I didn't see anyone mention, you can use steel wool to clean your tip. You don't need to buy any specialty tool.
when the tip gets a little messed up sand it with sand paper and with sand paper you can keep the tip clean and sharp.
In the days of bare copper tips this was the norm but not recommended with modern plated tips.
Same here. As long as you have enough heat and the right size/shape tip for the job, you should be good to go. No need to spend more on a bigger / better / professional soldering station. I don't understand all the "lead free solder is horrible" comments, either: lead-free is all I ever used both at work and on my own projects at home, and it's been trouble-free. Just use a drop of flux and you're golden.
Good advice given there. Remember that flux is your friend! It helps distribute the heat and make soldering easier (and avoid situations like the one described above). Use it !
Let us know how it went, OP.
Most likely. Like someone mentioned, it used to be normal practice. In your case, I'd probably just use the other side, but you can't harm that tip any more so it's worth trying to see how it goes
I use a fine metal file for chisel tips, to get a nice flat surface. But then, I also usually have extra tips on hand, so I only end up filing tips down when it's 2am and I realize I DON'T have extras, and I'm determined to finish something.
I am fairly new to this, and have had great success so far with this kit from Aoyue: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCVCHJM. Only $30 but it has worked very well for me, heats up quickly and responds well to the temperature control.
I rounded out my kit with the following, all of which have worked great and been useful:
- Set of different-shaped tips: Amazon.com: 1 X 10 Solder Soldering Iron Tip for Hakko Station 900M 933: Home Improvement
- Brass wire sponge tip cleaner: Amazon.com: Aoyue Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner with Brass wire sponge, no water needed: Home Improvement
- Desoldering pump (solder sucker): Amazon.com: 1 X Desoldering Vacuum Pump "Solder Sucker" Solder Removal Tool: Home Improvement
- Desoldering wick: NTE SW02-10 No-Clean Wick ##4 Blue 0.098 x 10 ft.: Power Soldering Equipment: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
- Rosin paste flux: Invalid Link Removed
I've only worked with 60/40 so far, so I can't comment on the lead-free discussion.
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As I understand it, the franchise stores may survive. There is rumor that Sprint may take some of the better locations and have a store within a store where the sell Sprint products. But, this is really all speculation as the lawyers lawyer on.
Too bad, Although RS was an archaic type store, some of us tinkerers could find specialty items there that were not available everywhere.
They still have an internet presence Radioshack - Home
I think a Weller WP35, is the equivalent to the old light bulb socket one that I use. It's about as basic as I would go.
Yeah, I thought I would be clever & buy from them online, but that's not an option either.
Very wrong. The first giveaway is the huge necktie. That was very late 70s to early 80s. To see a 1965 tie, see any James Bond movie (skinny suits, skinny lapels, skinny ties). Also, look closely at the technology shown. Most of what you see was not around in 1965.
