just off the top of my head, you could try changing the CC value from 0 to something like 127. Worth a try
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This rulesThose are sort of the basic components of an envelope filter. But to break it down a bit:
(photos are from the earlier version of the editor, so some stuff isn't quite the same)
***Note, it helps if you've at least roughly set your sensitivity control so you can trigger the filters, even if you're not fully dialed. Use someone elses' envelope preset to do that first.
Start and end here:
View attachment 3592961
Input gain you set to your bass. Use the pedal and make note of what the setting ends up being (the numerical value)...start with that number ever time on your Input 1 Gain.
Master Depth With one filter you don't need to mess with this. With two filters it adjusts both but keeps them in scale. Feel free to ignore for single filter design.
Bass & Treble controls screw around with these AFTER you've designed your envelope filter.
Mix: Go all wet when you're designing your filter so you can hear exactly what it's doing...add in dry later, once you've got your filter tone designed.
Low Retain (now a knob): crossover control...split out the low stuff, keep it clean apply everything you're doing in your filter above that point. If your filter had a ton of depth, this may help you not swamp things. Feel like your filter is killin' your low end presence, use this control.
Output Volume: Seems pretty self explanatory. You'll want to adjust this when you're done. I like mine to be at unity or maybe little bit more so it can be present in a live mix in a band.
Next here Find your Voice:
View attachment 3592980
-Set Voice 1 to ON (button top left)
-Mono Input 1 (where your signal is coming from). Other options are more for synth use or doing generated tones like octave pedal effects.
-Envelope; on or off, filter without envelope will open or close based upon signal but the envelope lets you shape the filter's opening and closing, fast/slow, swelled volume or ASDR options.
-Destination is where you're directing the signal. No distortion? Go right to filter. Distortion? set for Filter + Distortion
-Processor Pan: There are two processors (distortion/filters) the pan knob directs your signal to one, the other or both. Crank it all the way to the left (Processor 1).
-Level control I don't generally mess with until closer to the end when I'm figuring what levels I want signals to hit other stages.
Simple envelope filter? Turn off ALL the other voices. Feel free to ignore them.
Next up clean or dirty:
View attachment 3592996
If you've chosen to get 'dirty,' this is where you're headed, otherwise skip this step. Make sure first off, it's ON. You'll see that voice one will have the full yellow bar in the little mixer window on the left, the others should have nothing. That's controlled from the PAN control in the Voice panel.
-Drop down: your pick...which distortion, fuzz, OD option do you want. They all sound different, some are brighter or darker or whatever so you do need to check em' with your bass. You may find that once you combine with a filter you like, you don't like it so much and you go back and try some others. Note, filters LIKE harmonic content. You may find dirtying up your tone even just a little gives your filter something to 'grab ahold of' and give you more of what you want.
-Drive: The amount of distortion.
-Clean mix: Wait...this is just like using a distortion pedal, I know what that means.
- Output: Drive goes up (gain) output can come down so you're not blasting the next stage.
Next...the moment you've been waiting for...the filter:
View attachment 3593005
...also ON correct?So...here's where MUCH of your sound design is going to come from. You'll still have that Voice 1 on the left hand side filled yellow (getting your voice one feed whether through distortion or not).
-Drop down: Filter types. A TON of options here. If you're replicating something it's good to know what the original design was. Most basic classics are 2-pole, many modern classics are 4-pole but it's well worth pulling through and hearing how they all differ.
-Invert button: Like that funky Bootsy reverse filter that dives? Click it dawg.
-Depth: how much sweep does your filter have. What's the width it will travel from open to close? Set that here.
-Frequency: Sets the overall frequency of the filter play and sweep and you'll find the place you want. It gives you the starting point of if you're going dark and swampy or something more mid-treble heavy. Remember it works in tandem with the Depth control, which will be how MUCH sweep you have.
Q: Resonant peak: This is where you get the filter emphasis. Soft and subtle or quacky or edgy/reedy. Sometimes you have to balance the filter type with the Q to get things to do what you want.
Destination (unknown): Make sure this is set to 'on' too or it's goin' nowhere. Where are you sending the signal when it's all said and done? Pick your outputs here.
Shaping the Envelope to your filter:
View attachment 3593016
Kinda makes sense, looking at it right? We know what the sensitivity control does. Work this with your bass to figure out how to trigger it best for your dynamics.
Drop Down: Audio Input: This is the actual pedal input you're using, most of us will use Input 1 unless you've got other routing things happening (stereo, loops, etc).
Drop Down: Envelope Types: There's a bunch of attack/release options and in name they tell you what the speed knob does. Some of them will control one or the other or both. Time to play around with 'em. There's also some other stuff like Swell (volume swell) and the ADSR (Attack/Decay/Sustain/Release) settings, which are more meant for the Synth stuff but CAN be used with the filters to fun effect. Play around with them and tweak at will.
Gate: Generally used for the Synth and keyed to help the oscillators' functioning.
...now go back to the general/universal controls and tweak. Fuss your wet/dry, adjust your output level. Play with that retain lows & the master bass/treble controls.
Done.
This is a great and easily understandable walkthrough on how to approach the c4. These types of accelerators should be part of the c4 docs.This rules
Yep! Would have held on to mine.This is a great and easily understandable walkthrough on how to approach the c4. These types of accelerators should be part of the c4 docs.
Oddly enough it’s often easier for a someone online who can write well to explain than anyone involved in the product development- if you’re involved in the dev it’s harder to say things like “ignore this bit for now” as you are more emotional attatched to the feature that you spent three weeks on!This is a great and easily understandable walkthrough on how to approach the c4. These types of accelerators should be part of the c4 docs.
That’s how I ended up writing the FI manual - I started by posting useful tips on how to use it and navigate the editor and parsing it in less developer speak.Oddly enough it’s often easier for a someone online who can write well to explain than anyone involved in the product development- if you’re involved in the dev it’s harder to say things like “ignore this bit for now” as you are more emotional attatched to the feature that you spent three weeks on!
A blog post reposting it would be good if the author gave permission- then the series of blog posts end up becoming a knowledge base
You need a midi controller that can act as a usb host, if not, usb midi won’t work.I bought a midi controller (m-vave chocolate), it sends midi via usb trs, but it didn't work when connected directly to the C4 using a mini USB x USB-C cable (without adapter), the same cable works on the c4 when connected to the mac
Thanks for the reply, so the fact that the controller sends midi directly via usb doesn't make it a midi host?You need a midi controller that can act as a usb host, if not, usb midi won’t work.
I think I read that the MVave works with the C4 when using their wireless MIDI dongles, which act as a host, but not when attached directly. The SA MIDI adaptor should work just fineI bought a midi controller (m-vave chocolate), it sends midi via usb trs, but it didn't work when connected directly to the C4 using a mini USB x USB-C cable (without adapter), the same cable works on the c4 when connected to the mac
hey, have you ever got this sorted?So, I made some progress... I Factory Reset the device, and now "Increment preset" and "Decrement preset" are working... almost...
I can only change presets when the pedal is bypassed. Otherwise, I can only inc/dec once. I cannot increment preset twice. I see in Neuro Editor that the preset is changed (it changes the highlighting in the preset list), but the sound doesn't change. I really need to bypass, inc/dec, then re-enable it... It's a real bummer...
Any clue to make it changing without having to bypass the pedal ?
@rsmith601 any idea ?
Not yet. I called support, they reproduce the problem (so it’s not me, it’s a bug) but told me they were busy with the artifakt and neuro 3. So they’ll correct that maybe later. No news since.hey, have you ever got this sorted?
You may need to check if the pitch detector is set to take the low end into account. It’s possible that low E is the default setting. Set it either via the mobile or desktop app. It’s a per-preset setting.Hi people, do you have any suggestion on how can I improve tracking on C4, with oscillator voices controlled by envelopes (example: Neuro Community by Source Audio), I cannot seem to get good tracking when going below A2 on bass. How can I improve tracking in this context (I do not have this issue with Polyphonic/Monophonic pitch, they seem to track correctly)?
When I play open E as an example (in the patch linked above), the pitch very often jumps between E2 and E3.
Another question, what input Db level should I target to get the optimal calibration on C4? I have the means to increase the input volume and have managed to get the red blinking to show up, indicating that optimal calibration has been set, but I wanted to know if a specific decibel value existed. I reach the value only with the gain knob 75% of the way, so maybe I need more input volume and this will solve the tracking issue? I will try regardless in a few hours.
It was set correctly, but the problem was mostly a matter of technique, after playing for 1 hour while adjusting parameters I figured out how to get the E2 -> E3 -> E2 passage cleanly (90% of the time, but I think I can do better with more practice).You
You may need to check if the pitch detector is set to take the low end into account. It’s possible that low E is the default setting. Set it either via the mobile or desktop app. It’s a per-preset setting.
Developing the right touch helps a lot with any tracking effect, I also find that using a mid placed pickup like a Pbass helps also reducing highs if you have new or brite strings. Where you strike the string matters as well as too close to the neck or bridge seems to add to tracking errors.Hi people, do you have any suggestion on how can I improve tracking on C4, with oscillator voices controlled by envelopes (example: Neuro Community by Source Audio), I cannot seem to get good tracking when going below A2 on bass. How can I improve tracking in this context (I do not have this issue with Polyphonic/Monophonic pitch, they seem to track correctly)?
When I play open E as an example (in the patch linked above), the pitch very often jumps between E2 and E3.
Another question, what input Db level should I target to get the optimal calibration on C4? I have the means to increase the input volume and have managed to get the red blinking to show up, indicating that optimal calibration has been set, but I wanted to know if a specific decibel value existed. I reach the value only with the gain knob 75% of the way, so maybe I need more input volume and this will solve the tracking issue? I will try regardless in a few hours.