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SPECTOR® Club - Part 23

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#961
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
 
#962
delucajohn2000 said:
That pre is standard in the USA bolt-ons and Limaguy got to mess with one recently and was raving about it. He said the mid control really adds to it a great deal so I have been thinking about it since I heard that.
Click to expand...

I like that the EQ is equal plus/minus so I'll bet there's a center detent. Plus I've been getting into using a mid range boost about 800hz. I like the sound and it helps with clarity in the mix. I can then back off on the treble.

FYI...
Aguilar OBP-3 Bass Preamp​
Bass control: plus/minus 18 dB @ 40 Hz.
Mid control: plus/minus 16 dB @ 400Hz or 800 Hz. User selectable frequency center.
Treble control: plus/minus 16 dB @ 6.5 KHz.

Plus you can choose 9, 18, or 27 volts.
 
#963
locisbrelm said:
Ah, I see how you see it. For me, once you set the optimum neck relief, the bridge does the rest of the work. And you can set optimum relief even with the bridge saddles up at their maximum. Using the press string down at 1st or 2nd and 24th frets method. The string then becomes your straight edge to measure the relief with. A capo or an extra hand is recommended.

I find it makes it a easier set up to do this order.
Neck Relief - Bridge Height - Intonation. Then pick up height if needed.

Yes the page is only a guide but a awesome guide at that.
Click to expand...
Actually, that's kind of a backwards way to do it because:
PhatBasstard said:
You do use the truss rod in combination with your bridge to get the best action.
Once the truss and bridge saddles are in the ball park, you get the best action you can from the 12th fret up to the last fret by adjusting the saddles.
Once you feel this is achieved you adjust (usually tighten) your truss rod to get the best action (hopefully lower without buzz) from the 12th fret down to the 1st (and overall by default).

You do it in this order because, once the bridge saddles are set the truss rod will not affect fretted notes from about the 12th fret up regardless.
However, the bridge saddles can certainly affect the performance of notes all over the neck. Possibly causing you to have to readjust the truss rod for the 1st to 12th fret area again.
Click to expand...
The process you describe is ok for getting it in the "ball park" as I stated above. But final adjustment should be in this^^^order for the reasons described.
 
#965
I run my Euro5LX's eq basically halfway between full up and full off. Sometimes I'll back off on the bass and boost the treble a touch. And I have the bridge pickup volume full up and the neck pickup up about 3/4 up in single coil mode. Tone pump is set to about 50%
 
#966
stix_clgi said:
Hey guys, I need help lol...

I've been trying to get my Legend 6 setup for the last *counting* two hours, and I can't seem to get the action any lower than it came from the store. I've looked at quite a few guides, the Jerzy Drozd one, the one at SpectorWorld.com, the one at onlinebasstuner.com...I'm still sort of lost. Oh, BTW, this is my first setup, so bear with a brother please.....

I've adjusted the truss rod, and I don't really want to do that again; it was almost to the null point before I even tried to turn it or anything. First I went clockwise to flatten the neck some....strings buzzed, and they're already a little high for my taste...so after like 30 mins I went back counter-clockwise to put some relief in the neck. It's measuring about .015mm with a feeler gauge at the 9th fret....but the strings are buzzing like the where when the neck was flat. So does it take longer for the neck to adjust with relief than it does when flattening it? I've read (in this club) that the Spectors can get lower action than Fender's, G&L's etc...mine is probably right where my older Jazz used to be...

Any help is appreciated...:help::help:
Click to expand...

When I first got my Euro, I wanted to set it up perfectly. I had the truss rod cover off for about a week, anally taking my time to get relief just right. Turn the truss rod 1/8 turn, let it sit for a day, check relief, lather, rinse, repeat. Eventually, it felt and sounded just right, and although the process was long and drawn out, it was time well spent.

johnsonabq said:
For those of you with Tone Pump electronics...
Do you run with everything full up or do you have a favorite setting for volume/bass/treble?
I usually went full up on my Modulus but this Euro is hot and I've had to back way off on the trim. Trying to find my sweet spot.
Click to expand...

Before I reset my trimpot last night, I went with bass at roughly 60% and treble 40%. Now, with less gain in the signal, I can get bass maxed with no distortion and will be experimenting a bit more. Nikki Tedesco had some pretty good tones on her Spector tutorial with the bass cranked!

johnsonabq said:
Hmmm... I could use the set screws in the knobs as a point of reference. I sure do wish there were notches at flat.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what I do with my Fender.

johnsonabq said:
Just for the sake of discussion, has anyone upgraded to any of the Aguilar after market preamps like here?... Aguilar OBP-3 | OBP3 Bass Preamp
Click to expand...

I haven't tried it, and I don't know if I ever will - the Tonepump sound is what caused my initial Spector jones in the first place!
 
#967
Seeing all these fivers lately and hearing some wonderful clips with the TW pickups here and on Youtube, combined with learning new songs in Eb and D, has me wondering if I should forget about getting a Hipshot detuner and upgrading to a 5LX.

My SAS is a maple board Euro 5LX, bare maple headstock, finished in USA gloss purple stain. The Euro plum color is too lavender for my tastes, although my daughter would surely dig it! Is it at all possible to ship a small container of stain with a neck to the Czech republic on a special order?
 
#968
For those of you who play, or have played, both the P/J and TW pickup configurations:

What are the advantages and disadvantages of each array? As Jeff has pointed out in earlier posts, this is the best focus group out there, and I value your opinions more than any other source!
 
#970
PhatBasstard said:
Actually, that's kind of a backwards way to do it because:

The process you describe is ok for getting it in the "ball park" as I stated above. But final adjustment should be in this^^^order for the reasons described.
Click to expand...

On the truss rod adjustment, which way is tighten and which way is loosen. I want to start doing this on my own now.
 
#971
chrisloe said:
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
I will just work and be happy, I will not keep looking at the pictures of the blue coda....
Click to expand...

Imagine Bart writing this at the beginning of a Simpsons episode. Lol
 
#972
Hey gang,
To address something that came up earlier:
Even with my Tone Pumps trims set at 50%, I felt the output was a little hot in relationship to other active preamps/basses I have used. This also seemed to be confirmed by low trim settings needed on certain effects pedals and my input gain on my Markbass amps only being able to be set at about 1.5 before the clip light would come on at hard thumb slapping.

Before an RnB band (lots of slapping :p) rehearsal last night I dropped the 4 string with PJ's to 40% and the 6 string with DC's to 30% (the humbuckers have a little more relative output than the PJ's).

The difference in output wasn't huge but I am getting a little bit more realistic gain settings on my amp and pedals. And you guys are right on about the tone. It does seem to be better. Smoother and more precise. Excellent. :hyper::bassist:
 
#973
steamthief said:
Seeing all these fivers lately and hearing some wonderful clips with the TW pickups here and on Youtube, combined with learning new songs in Eb and D, has me wondering if I should forget about getting a Hipshot detuner and upgrading to a 5LX.

My SAS is a maple board Euro 5LX, bare maple headstock, finished in USA gloss purple stain. The Euro plum color is too lavender for my tastes, although my daughter would surely dig it! Is it at all possible to ship a small container of stain with a neck to the Czech republic on a special order?
Click to expand...

Oh boy, once you experience the thunder, you will be hooked. That is the term I use for the Spector B string since it is the word that best describes it when playing it.

It depends if you would rather spend money on a Hipshot Xtender or add a 5 string to your collection. If you are looking to special order a Euro, you are looking at roughly a 4 month wait. I personally could not wait that long :)
 
#974
johnsonabq said:
On the truss rod adjustment, which way is tighten and which way is loosen. I want to start doing this on my own now.
Click to expand...
When looking at the rod (always headstock end on Spectors), clockwise tightens and straightens the neck. Counter clockwise loosens and allows relief (curvature) from the pull of the strings.

It's the old "Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosy" rule. ;)
 
#975
PhatBasstard said:
Before an RnB band (lots of slapping :p) rehearsal last night I dropped the 4 string with PJ's to 40% and the 6 string with DC's to 30% (the humbuckers have a little more relative output than the PJ's).
Click to expand...

It's funny that you mention this because Limaguy and I were talking about it the other night and I was convinced that the DC's do have a higher output than the P/J pickups. I agree with you 100% on that.
 
#978
PhatBasstard said:
Actually, that's kind of a backwards way to do it because:

The process you describe is ok for getting it in the "ball park" as I stated above. But final adjustment should be in this^^^order for the reasons described.
Click to expand...

I'm going to try this method when I get home....does this apply for the second truss rod? My Legend has two...and as of this morning the neck was still pretty flat, even though I adjust the bass side truss rod counter-clockwise...it's actually pretty loose right now, no resistance at all....

On another note...I think I've convinced myself to put my OBP-3 in another bass an order a trimpot Tonepump for my Legend upgrade...it's actually cheaper than buying another OBP-3, and I think it'll give me the sound I heard when I played the Euro 6XL I posted pics of earlier.
 
#979
stix_clgi said:
On another note...I think I've convinced myself to put my OBP-3 in another bass an order a trimpot Tonepump for my Legend upgrade...it's actually cheaper than buying another OBP-3, and I think it'll give me the sound I heard when I played the Euro 6XL I posted pics of earlier.
Click to expand...

:hiding:soooo...anyone have a spare Tonepump they're not using lol:hiding:

I'm convinced, I'm ordering mine now in 3....2....1.....
 
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