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SPECTOR® Club - Part 28

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Here are a couple of really pic pictures. It was purchased from Knut-Koupe music in Minneapolis. I miss that store...

Spector_NS-2JA_85_FULL.jpg


Spector_NS-2JA_85_CU.jpg


ciebie,

I have to jump in on this for moment.

I just wanted to confirm this bass is a NS-2JA is a USA made 80's model correct?

If so it is worth more the $800.

$800 would be the value of the Czech re-issue.

If it is a USA made 80's model I would say $1700- $2000.
 
Hello Spector peeps. I was hoping that you could help me. I'm trying to put a value to my Spector for insurance reasons and I'm not having any luck searching online. It is a 1985 NS-2JA 4 string bolt-on, gloss black. It has some wear but overall is in really good shape. I bought it new and still love the sound and playability even though it's not my main bass any more. Any idea what it might be worth on the open market? Thanks!

There were 276 made.
The original list price for the NS-2JA was $1380.00

If you were going to replace it with an equivalent bass in today's prices, you'd have to get an NS-4H2 with two J pups, a special order.

List price for this would be $3399.00 plus the cost of the USA 9v Spector Circuit (the circuit in your bass) Retail price of this circuit is $499.00 (I know there's a sale, but this if for insurance and there's no guarantee that the sale will still be on if the need to replace this guitar ever comes to pass).

I'd say the current replacement value for insurance purposes would be $3,800.00

Now, this is a totally different thing than what the true sales value of your bass is.

That is what the current market will hold. So basically it's worth what someone is willing to pay you for it.

Which in all fairness depending on condition should be between $1500 and $2000 due to the rare nature of it being an authentic Brooklyn Spector in above average condition. So long as everything is 100% original, all the hardware, the circuit, the finish, etc... The value drops as the condition lowers or the hardware has been replaced, etc...

There were three runs of this bass, BTW. The original 1983-1985 run, which is what this is.

The NS-2J Woodstock run from 2002-2009 and the Czech NS-2JA-R reissue run from 2007-2009.

The original Brooklyn models are pretty rare and should bring the $1500 - $2000 I mentioned. The 2002-2009 Woodstock models I've seen go from $1500-$2000 as well and the Czech Reissues are usually running around $800-$1100. I sold my white Czech Reissue for $1100.
 
I'm trying to determine information regarding origin of manufacture, and worth, of the following model. Serial #NB2453. Any clues?

Ian Hill Sig Model with Ser# NB2453
would be Czech made aprox 2003-2004

It should say Made is Czech Republic and Ian Hill on the back of the headstock.

But Iam not 100% sure they made the Ian Hill models that early? Phat, yes or no?

If it is a Ian Hill Sig Czech model from 2003-2004 it would be worth about $800-$1000 depending on the condition.
 
There were 276 made.
The original list price for the NS-2JA was $1380.00

If you were going to replace it with an equivalent bass in today's prices, you'd have to get an NS-4H2 with two J pups, a special order.

List price for this would be $3399.00 plus the cost of the USA 9v Spector Circuit (the circuit in your bass) Retail price of this circuit is $499.00 (I know there's a sale, but this if for insurance and there's no guarantee that the sale will still be on if the need to replace this guitar ever comes to pass).

I'd say the current replacement value for insurance purposes would be $3,800.00

Now, this is a totally different thing than what the true sales value of your bass is.

That is what the current market will hold. So basically it's worth what someone is willing to pay you for it.

Which in all fairness depending on condition should be between $1500 and $2000 due to the rare nature of it being an authentic Brooklyn Spector in above average condition. So long as everything is 100% original, all the hardware, the circuit, the finish, etc... The value drops as the condition lowers or the hardware has been replaced, etc...

There were three runs of this bass, BTW. The original 1983-1985 run, which is what this is.

The NS-2J Woodstock run from 2002-2009 and the Czech NS-2JA-R reissue run from 2007-2009.

The original Brooklyn models are pretty rare and should bring the $1500 - $2000 I mentioned. The 2002-2009 Woodstock models I've seen go from $1500-$2000 as well and the Czech Reissues are usually running around $800-$1100. I sold my white Czech Reissue for $1100.

Outstanding! Thanks for all that info. That's exactly what I was hoping to learn. Yes, mine was purchased in '85 though I'm not sure of the manufacture date. The serial number is 193E. Everything is original with the exception of the 1/4" jack. The pot detents are pretty soft at this point but the bass still sounds and plays great.

Let me ask you this, would I be lowering the value of the bass if I had the pots replaced at some point?
 
Here's some questions to guys playing live: Who all is running a DI either on its own to FOH, or in conjunction with their amp? What DI's are you using? And why?

Most places we play, won't require anything but me to turn my amp up or down (or up some more!). However, there could be some larger things on the horizon, and more outdoors stuff, that will probably require instruments to go to FOH as well. I have, in the past, mic'd my cab for this; my amp's DI is pretty hot according to some sound guys, and not in a sexy way. I'm wondering if a Radial JDX might be good for me. It connects between amp and cab, so it sends an amplified signal to FOH. What other options have you guys used?

All the amps I've used all have a DI out, right now I have an A.M.P. BH-420 (predecessor to the Thunderfunk and SWR) and my backup is an Acoustic B200H. Mostly we just run that to our little sound board and out the speakers and sub (if we bring the sub) with just a little EQing on the board to keep it from overpowering the other guys. Most of my sound comes from my rig though, as I always have a loud stage volume :D
 
Here's some questions to guys playing live: Who all is running a DI either on its own to FOH, or in conjunction with their amp? What DI's are you using? And why?

Most places we play, won't require anything but me to turn my amp up or down (or up some more!). However, there could be some larger things on the horizon, and more outdoors stuff, that will probably require instruments to go to FOH as well. I have, in the past, mic'd my cab for this; my amp's DI is pretty hot according to some sound guys, and not in a sexy way. I'm wondering if a Radial JDX might be good for me. It connects between amp and cab, so it sends an amplified signal to FOH. What other options have you guys used?

Currently I'm running a line out from the back of my MarkBass Combo Head which seems to work really well. In the past I've used a direct box with a 1/4" split to my amp. I've also gone completely without amplification and gone though a Line 6 X3 Live to the FOH and relied on monitors. Of course our drummer at the time was on an electronic kit. I'm a big fan of low stage volume!
 
LimaGuy said:
Ian Hill Sig Model with Ser# NB2453
would be Czech made aprox 2003-2004

It should say Made is Czech Republic and Ian Hill on the back of the headstock.

But Iam not 100% sure they made the Ian Hill models that early? Phat, yes or no?

If it is a Ian Hill Sig Czech model from 2003-2004 it would be worth about $800-$1000 depending on the condition.

Not sure how they do the Czech numbering. Mine is NB998. Which would/should put it older than that one would think.
 
Not sure how they do the Czech numbering. Mine is NB998. Which would/should put it older than that one would think.

Im not sure how they do the numbering but I usually just go by the ser#'s that I had confirmed with PJ on Czech models that I have owned or still own.

NB009X is from 2001

NB34XX is from 2004

NB81XX is from 2008

NB91XX is from 2010

NB105XX is from 2011

I think they are currently up to NB107XX

There should be a 4th digit in the NB number you listed above.
 
LimaGuy said:
Im not sure how they do the numbering but I usually just go by the ser#'s that I had confirmed with PJ on Czech models that I have owned or still own.

NB009X is from 2001

NB34XX is from 2004

NB81XX is from 2008

NB91XX is from 2010

NB105XX is from 2011

I think they are currently up to NB107XX

There should be a 4th digit in the NB number you listed above.

Cool, might be under the d tuner. Have to look.
 
Let me ask you this, would I be lowering the value of the bass if I had the pots replaced at some point?


Well let's make sure you have the USA 9v Circuit in it.

The pots should be attached to a board that fits inside the control cavity compartment... like in the attached photo. If so, then sending the bass to Spector for any circuit repair will not decrease the value of the guitar.

I'd avoid doing that if at all possible. So long as the pots don't have problems with popping, noise, static, etc... The older 9v Spector Circuits used a different set of pots than the current versions. The circuit itself is still the same, but advances in the tech for pots has been incorporated into the newer circuits. They are less likely to have issues or go bad.

The last resort would be to contact the contractor that makes the circuits for Spector (HazLabs in NJ) and see if they can repair the pots for you.

It's an electric bass guitar and circuits eventually degrade due to heat and other factors caused by pushing electricity through them. But so long as the bass works I'd not be too worried about changing the pots. The 1/4 plug is fine. Those go bad. They sometimes need to be replaced.

So long as the bridge, nut, tuners, knobs, circuit, back cover and back cover screws are original I think it's fine.

And if you're like me, a bass that old that you've had a long time, it doesn't matter anyway because you'd never sell it.
 
So I finally got around to hooking up the 18 volt mod Sam made for me. Thanks Sam. I gotta say, the difference from 9v to 18v is subtle but there for sure. To my ears it made my Euro5Lx even meaner sounding but what I like the most is how it seems to bring out the highs so it sounds more even across the spectrum. Does that make sense?

Thanks again Sam.
 
Rick Blanc said:
So I finally got around to hooking up the 18 volt mod Sam made for me. Thanks Sam. I gotta say, the difference from 9v to 18v is subtle but there for sure. To my ears it made my Euro5Lx even meaner sounding but what I like the most is how it seems to bring out the highs so it sounds more even across the spectrum. Does that make sense?

Thanks again Sam.

I hope to over the weekend...thanks for the info!
 
this caused me to do a double-take this morning when i was walking by. my brain said, "hmmm, take a few steps back. something seems amiss..."
 

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