• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

SPECTOR® Club - Part 28

Status
Not open for further replies.
I would say the first two frets are a little harder.

Given how fast they shipped it out I don't think they put a new nut on there.

I am not a DIY guy when it comes to nut filing and I don't want to make this bass my guinea pig so I'll have to take it in.

When you say "how high" on the nut, where is that measurement taken? From the base of the nut to the top of the nut or from the fretboard to the top of the nut? From the base of the nut where it meets the neck to the top of it I'd say it's close to 7mm so that might be consistent with you removing 2mm of yours to get get it to 4.5 or 5.

Pardon my mistake on this, the nut is actually about 7mm high from the bottom of the nut to the top of the nut itself. See photos of the old nut from my Euro LX and the brass nut on the Cherry Euro LX

From the way you measured, I am guessing yours is probably about 9mm bottom to top of the nut.

DSCN1863.gif


DSCN1868.gif


So big question: to go BEAD on this do I pretty much have to get the nut removed and have it shaved down from the bottom in addition to the slot work? I was hoping this is something I could get done while I wait since I drive 45 min. to get to the guy, but now it's sounding like this might require me to leave it. Ugh - I hate doing that.

Depending on the tech he may be able to do both on the spot its hard to say.
 
Thanks for the pics. I measured the same way and it's also about 7mm so perhaps it's just the slots that need work. Based on your pic I'd say the slots on mine probably need to be 1mm deeper or so.
 
Thanks for the pics. I measured the same way and it's also about 7mm so perhaps it's just the slots that need work. Based on your pic I'd say the slots on mine probably need to be 1mm deeper or so.

If its about 7mm already then it may just need to have slots widened.

Good luck, keep us updated.

P.S. You close to Route 59?

Years ago I would visit the Aurora/Naperville area alot on business.
 
If its about 7mm already then it may just need to have slots widened.

Good luck, keep us updated.

P.S. You close to Route 59?

Years ago I would visit the Aurora/Naperville area alot on business.

Thanks I will. My guy has weird hours so if I don't go Tuesday after work I have to wait for Saturday.

I am about 4 miles east of 59. I don't know what it was like back then but I've been out here about 7 years and there are just WAY TOO MANY PEOPLE on the road LOL.
 
Oh Great! I was just ready to pull the trigger on a set of DR Black Beauties for my Spector REX5 and now you have me thinking in a different direction. Here's the 5 string set, is it the same type you're talking (looks like a lot of different options in the 4 string sets) [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I'm really loving the agressive nature of this Spector if the Cobalts make it more so it might be even more interesting, then again too much of a good thing my not be good. The DR Black Beauties would take the REX in the oppostite direction I suspect, more bass/deeper/mellow/less agressive, which is the direction most of my other basses have gone.

I have Cobalts on my Spector and love'em.
 
Pardon my mistake on this, the nut is actually about 7mm high from the bottom of the nut to the top of the nut itself. See photos of the old nut from my Euro LX and the brass nut on the Cherry Euro LX

Wow. Good measuring. Correct! One side of the nut is 8mm sloped to 7 and the other side is 9 sloped to 8 (for the 4-string model).

From the way you measured, I am guessing yours is probably about 9mm bottom to top of the nut.

Yeah... well no to confuse the subject with me jumping in. I've actually dug up an old diagram I did for Stuart back almost 2 years ago.

Depending on the tech he may be able to do both on the spot its hard to say.

I did this diagram as a guide for how to cut new or custom nuts for the Euro4LX. My original Euro4LX had the graphite nut and I ordered a brass one. And it came and was way too high. So I had to shave about 3mm from the base to get it right. I took it to a machine shop and they were kind enough to put it on a belt sander for all of 4 seconds for me. Then it was perfect.
 
jarrod cunningham said:
Only thing is on travel gigs we all ride in my truck and guitars ride either in the bed (fiberglass locking cover ) or in the trailer . So a bag isn't ideal but is an option .

Ya I hear ya, mine goes in my suv and I always felt safe with the gig bag... I hope to get a Spector hard case soon they seem to be the best cases. I have a roadrunner case and my basses move around in them
 
worshiprocker said:
Ya I hear ya, mine goes in my suv and I always felt safe with the gig bag... I hope to get a Spector hard case soon they seem to be the best cases. I have a roadrunner case and my basses move around in them


My Euro5 is in a Gator case; it has a thick pad that sits on the strings when the lid is closed, as well as a neck channel. The bass doesn't move an inch, and it's made like a plastic road case (SKB-type).
 
My Euro5 is in a Gator case; it has a thick pad that sits on the strings when the lid is closed, as well as a neck channel. The bass doesn't move an inch, and it's made like a plastic road case (SKB-type).

I wish the road runner case had that cushion. It has a velcro strap that holds the neck, but because of the curved body, it seems to not sit very well in the channel for the neck. So the body moves a little bit. :(
 
I have Cobalts on my Spector and love'em.

Thanks Tat, sounds like the same story from everyone else who uses them. I'm not a pic or slap player, strictly finger style but would like to get a bit more of a pic sound without having to go with a pic so this option is interesting.
Do you find the Cobalts to be overly fret noisy?
I'm not fond of clicky clacky basses, when I play a note I want to hear a note not a bunch of metal on metal bass "rim shots". Are these good in this regard?
 
Thanks Tat, sounds like the same story from everyone else who uses them. I'm not a pic or slap player, strictly finger style but would like to get a bit more of a pic sound without having to go with a pic so this option is interesting.
Do you find the Cobalts to be overly fret noisy?
I'm not fond of clicky clacky basses, when I play a note I want to hear a note not a bunch of metal on metal bass "rim shots". Are these good in this regard?

Just an FYI..Bass Strings Online kills everybody on Cobalt prices. They're even lower once you register on his site as a TB user. It's run by a fellow TB'er so he gives nice discounts and the best service I've ever encountered.

Invalid Link Removed
 
Thanks Tat, sounds like the same story from everyone else who uses them. I'm not a pic or slap player, strictly finger style but would like to get a bit more of a pic sound without having to go with a pic so this option is interesting.
Do you find the Cobalts to be overly fret noisy?
I'm not fond of clicky clacky basses, when I play a note I want to hear a note not a bunch of metal on metal bass "rim shots". Are these good in this regard?

I would say there is a tad more string noise....the ole "no free lunch" deal but I will gladly take the trade-off. Yes, for me, I really prefer a picked tone but I don't pick and not really in the mood to convert. Played near the bridge these strings get the best "pick tone" I've heard played with fingers.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.