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SPECTOR® Club - Part 36

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Ok , a few weeks back I installed a EMG bt in my euro . Last night batteries are dead . So I thought I had it wired wrong . But when I change wiring around , I either get no sound , or weak distortion . Back the way I had it and it's good again . So , do yal think it's the jack that has shorted ???

Something is draining that battery, and replacing the jack is a good place to start. Assuming all of your solder joints are solid & taped & there are no shorts with any of them, I can't think what else it could be...
 
Here is a quick pic for those that appreciate old muscle cars... and Spectors of course.

2012-06-21_20-51-55_940.gif


Pure. American. Muscle. :bassist:

kick-f'n-ass! one thing that i woluld love to have would be a 1970 chevelle ss 454 ls6 :eek:

Hey, let's keep it clean here, folks! <rim-shot>
BWAHAHAHAHA!!!!
 
Ok , a few weeks back I installed a EMG bt in my euro . Last night batteries are dead . So I thought I had it wired wrong . But when I change wiring around , I either get no sound , or weak distortion . Back the way I had it and it's good again . So , do yal think it's the jack that has shorted ???

I have had this happen and it was the barrel jack. As someone else suggested, when you re-solder, heat wrap the joints too just to add an extra layer of security. It's highly unlikely that it's the circuit itself, but there is always a chance.

If you want to, MEG provides free tech support and they've always been really great on the phone: 707.525.9941
 
Quick tonepump wiring question. When I remove my EMG pre, I'll take those pots with it. I'll leave the vol and balance intact. The used tonepump does not have any pots with it. However, the diagram from the site shows a 100k and a 10k pot. Is that right? Why would the boost only pots be different? If someone knows the exact pots I should get let me know. I assume mimis are best as I have to squeeze 2 9v batteries in there to do the 18v mod.
 
It is possible to just use the vol/blend pots available. You'll need to get those other pots to make the tone pump work at spec. I'm sure it will work with other values, but not the same. A pot is basically a variable resister. So if you change the value you change the amount of resistance. In other words, the lager the value the more you can turn down/cut the signal. Which is why they use 250k in single coils and 500k in humbuckers. Humbuckers need that extra cut to get right down to no signal.

That being said, it doesn't mean it will totally sound like crap. Give'r a try. I'm sure we'd love to hear aboot it, eh? hehe
 
Quick tonepump wiring question. When I remove my EMG pre, I'll take those pots with it. I'll leave the vol and balance intact. The used tonepump does not have any pots with it. However, the diagram from the site shows a 100k and a 10k pot. Is that right? Why would the boost only pots be different? If someone knows the exact pots I should get let me know. I assume mimis are best as I have to squeeze 2 9v batteries in there to do the 18v mod.


Correct, leave the Volume and Balance and remove the EMG Bass and Treble Pots.
The Tonepump Pots you need are standard 100K and 10K Taper audio pots.

Also, here is a photo of how I have the 2 batteries in my cavity.

Euro7a.jpg
 
LimaGuy said:
Correct, leave the Volume and Balance and remove the EMG Bass and Treble Pots.
The Tonepump Pots you need are standard 100K and 10K Taper audio pots.

Also, here is a photo of how I have the 2 batteries in my cavity.

Perfect, I'll go online and order the pots now.
 
Played a Spector Legend five at the local GC.....gave it 30 minutes.....not a fan of the non trim tone pump. Maybe it's because I am used to MEC and Aguilar preamps? I like the option to cut or boost. I was not a fan of my G&L pre for the same reasons? As Sam and Jaymi and Steve have pointed out to me, the Legend series is not going to draw me away from the Warwicks......so I am still trying to get the right funds gathered for a Euro five. I think Smadder is onto something with his setup preamp......but I did not want to bash the bass I played but point out my observations on that model.

The treble hissed a bit too much for me and the pre just seemed a bit too grindy and distortion laden for my liking. Maybe I got a bad bass. On a whole thought it didn't play bad. I still have to get used to gloss necks again.....I prefer the oil finished necks. I'm not done yet.....just reporting my experiences. Happy Friday to those of you that are gigging this weekend rock out!
 
Personally - the TonePump is my favorite pre. There's something about how the transient frequencies of the treble boost really give a nice edge without making the tone 'brittle'.

Of course, the US 9V is still on my list - but I'm keeping my OBP-2 in my Forte for a while.

Let me know what you think of the TP.

Congrats on your new white addition:bassist:

Are you going to stay with the BT or go with your fav?
 
jarrod cunningham said:
Ok , a few weeks back I installed a EMG bt in my euro . Last night batteries are dead . So I thought I had it wired wrong . But when I change wiring around , I either get no sound , or weak distortion . Back the way I had it and it's good again . So , do yal think it's the jack that has shorted ???

I accidentally did this with the Tone Pump I installed in my 6.
It sounded fine until the battery died in only a week or 2. Essentially your preamp is on at all time, plugged or not.

I had to flip the two outside wires of the jack. The center one is fine if you're getting good signal in the incorrect configuration. Give this a try.
 
In the last thread,
Basstovsky posted the question.

"Is there a way to tell the difference between the US NS-2 and the Euro 4LX just by looking at the front of them? Usually I have no idea until I see the back of the headstock"

Some of us replied with answers.

Here is a great video clip to test your knowledge/vision. :bassist:

What bass is Ian Hill playing in this video?

 
I accidentally did this with the Tone Pump I installed in my 6.
It sounded fine until the battery died in only a week or 2. Essentially your preamp is on at all time, plugged or not.

I had to flip the two outside wires of the jack. The center one is fine if you're getting good signal in the incorrect configuration. Give this a try.

I have this same problem with the battery draining too quick on my NS-2A with a BTS in it. and its driving me nuts.

Just to confirm, it is the wires soldered onto the input jack that are making like it has a plug in it all the time, thus being on all the time?
 
LimaGuy said:
In the last thread,
Basstovsky posted the question.

"Is there a way to tell the difference between the US NS-2 and the Euro 4LX just by looking at the front of them? Usually I have no idea until I see the back of the headstock"

Some of us replied with answers.

Here is a great video clip to test your knowledge/vision. :bassist:

What bass is Ian Hill playing in this video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1rMDF8K00M

Euro 4 lx

Look at the inlays esp. The 12th fret. Euro has mop, the US has abalony (old US have mop though) The rounded bridge edges too. The usa bridge has sharper edges.
 
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