• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

SPECTOR® Club - Part 38

Status
Not open for further replies.
#261
smadder said:
Just wait till we smadder it up. It's going to be sick. :bassist::bassist::bassist:
Click to expand...

Steve, I guess I should call you.....lol

On another note, I already have a friend that wants to trade his oil rebop 2002 with non trim tone pump but has brass upgraded American issue bridge? Same condition....I'm not a fan of the original tone pump though at all....thoughts?
 
#263
Definitely call me when you're ready to move forward.

If it's a genuine USA brass bridge, then it may be worth the trade. Since we're going to put all new electronics in the back and the front, you could just sell the Tone Pump on the thread for probably $40-$50 to offset the cost of the other upgrades, though you'd probably get more money for the Aggie in the general TB classifieds. The Hz's I'm going to have you send to me so I can swap them for the 40DCs at zero cost. I'll explain more when we talk. But anyway, I would play it first to make sure it's as comfortable as the one you just got. Do you like the way it looks better than yours? Is all of the hardware in as good of condition as yours? What about weight? overall cosmetics and appearance? These are what should determine whether it's worth trading for. If it is, then I'd say go for it, though I am curious as to why the guy wants to do an even trade unless it's just a color thing.

But run this by Sam to see what he thinks as well - he'll know the right questions to ask much more than me. I'm better at advising on the pickups and electronics packages. Maybe run it by Jaymi too.


brotherbassj said:
Steve, I guess I should call you.....lol

On another note, I already have a friend that wants to trade his oil rebop 2002 with non trim tone pump but has brass upgraded American issue bridge? Same condition....I'm not a fan of the original tone pump though at all....thoughts?
Click to expand...
 
#265
smadder said:
Definitely call me when you're ready to move forward.

If it's a genuine USA brass bridge, then it may be worth the trade. Since we're going to put all new electronics in the back and the front, you could just sell the Tone Pump on the thread for probably $40-$50 to offset the cost of the other upgrades, though you'd probably get more money for the Aggie in the general TB classifieds. The Hz's I'm going to have you send to me so I can swap them for the 40DCs at zero cost. I'll explain more when we talk. But anyway, I would play it first to make sure it's as comfortable as the one you just got. Do you like the way it looks better than yours? Is all of the hardware in as good of condition as yours? What about weight? overall cosmetics and appearance? These are what should determine whether it's worth trading for. If it is, then I'd say go for it, though I am curious as to why the guy wants to do an even trade unless it's just a color thing.

But run this by Sam to see what he thinks as well - he'll know the right questions to ask much more than me. I'm better at advising on the pickups and electronics packages. Maybe run it by Jaymi too.
Click to expand...

I'm going to look into it. The bridge is new and one month old!
 
#266
brotherbassj said:
Someone told me that he thinks the finish on my Rebop is not original.....any comments? It looks original to me.....and it's a first gen low serial number. It has to be 2001 or 2002 early with that OBP-1
Click to expand...

That looks original to me.

brotherbassj said:
Steve, I guess I should call you.....lol

On another note, I already have a friend that wants to trade his oil rebop 2002 with non trim tone pump but has brass upgraded American issue bridge? Same condition....I'm not a fan of the original tone pump though at all....thoughts?
Click to expand...

That sounds exactly like the Rebop 5 I have. Do they have any pictures of the USA bridge on it? I would love to see that bass with a USA bridge installed since those things can pass as a murder weapon, haha. I did install a brand new Euro bridge on mine and have to say the new bridges they are using seem heavier which should make the sustain nice even though it was already great.

I also put a trim pot tonepump in it with EMG DC's and the bass is just a beast. I keep it tuned down a full step and just love the tone.
 
#269
Here's some pics of my preamp - EMG bt - the batteries are draining , like it's always on . Replace the jack and required it everyway I know how . Yal look and tell me what's wrong . Maybe I didn't follow the schematic ....
 

Attachments

  • image-2717250755.jpg
    image-2717250755.jpg
    59 KB · Views: 51
  • image-2751210978.jpg
    image-2751210978.jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 48
  • image-291733939.jpg
    image-291733939.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 39
#270
bclark812008 said:
I agree! I am a HUGE OBP fan, and I find that the OBP1 to be exactly as Gabriel described!

...however, the OBP2 and OBP3 are FANTASTIC sounding pre's that are not noisy or brittle (unless you absolutely crank the treble) and are my go to in any bass! :D
Click to expand...

+1!!! :bassist: I've had the adjustable TP in a couple of Spectors, most recent the Ian Hill Sig. and it's a righteous pre. Love the raw tone you can dial in with it. I've had the OBP-3 in the Forte 4, awesome tones that can be dialed in, it can get dirty. But since I've had my Forte 5 with the OBP-3...if you want dirty you can dial it in, if you want clear Hi-Fi you can dial it in. So far, IMO, for my ears, I love the OBP-3 the best of what I've played. That even goes for the Korean Haz, which would be my #2 choice. :). Some day I'll try the BCQ also. It sounds interesting.
 
#271
brotherbassj said:
Someone told me that he thinks the finish on my Rebop is not original.....any comments? It looks original to me.....and it's a first gen low serial number. It has to be 2001 or 2002 early with that OBP-1
Click to expand...

I think those years with the OBP were solid colors or natural. I believe they started the Rebop in 2002.

They switched to DLX and added inlays a couple years later. Your Rebop looks like a DLX finish, but it doesn't have the crown inlays. You can email PJ with the serial number, and he can get the date on the bass.

Congrats! I love my Rebop. And I'm probably the only one here who likes the non-trimpot TonePump. I control it with the volume rather than setting it in the actual pre.
 
#272
delucajohn2000 said:
That looks original to me.

That sounds exactly like the Rebop 5 I have. Do they have any pictures of the USA bridge on it? I would love to see that bass with a USA bridge installed since those things can pass as a murder weapon, haha. I did install a brand new Euro bridge on mine and have to say the new bridges they are using seem heavier which should make the sustain nice even though it was already great.

I also put a trim pot tonepump in it with EMG DC's and the bass is just a beast. I keep it tuned down a full step and just love the tone.
Click to expand...

I'll get you a picture...
 
#273
bclark812008 said:
I do not know about the connections, but I know that Icebox ordered his Forte with the PJ setup and they were cool with it. He even got his with the OBP-3 instead of the OBP-2!!

I believe that you can do the exact setup that you are describing from the factory, but it might be a little extra! :bassist:

...I am thinking about doing the exact same thing at some point! Then I'll have the neck shaped to match the fretless I have on order! :bassist:
Click to expand...

That would be correct! :) PJ is really great about working with you on options. Don't take what's listed for options on the website as written in stone. All you gotta do is ask.
 
#274
jarrod cunningham said:
Here's some pics of my preamp - EMG bt - the batteries are draining , like it's always on . Replace the jack and required it everyway I know how . Yal look and tell me what's wrong . Maybe I didn't follow the schematic ....
Click to expand...

The ground side of the battery should only connect through the 1/4" jack. Tie all the grounds together and hook up to one side of the jack and the other side of the jack should connect to the negative side of the battery.
This is the only way to wire it and make sure nothing draws current unless the amp cord is plugged in.

I Photoshopped your picture so I could get a better look.
 

Attachments

  • attachment.jpg
    attachment.jpg
    104.3 KB · Views: 57
#276
smadder said:
Also, since they're all done by hand, this one may have turned out thicker. And also if you remember, this one was custom made/ordered. The signature on the back of the head stick reads "custom built for so and so" (don't have the bass in front of me right now but you get my meaning) right before the model, serial number, Stuart's signature, etc. so this guy could have intentionally ordered a thicker C neck profile. All I can tell you is that it's noticeably thicker than the AW. It's not a total baseball bat C but it isn't as close to a D profile as I'd like. So if pj says it can be done, I'm gonna get it shaved, tung oil it, then save up some more money to get it refinished later down the road.
Click to expand...

I have not heard of a custom bass being signed like that? Huh...that's cool.
 
#279
Gabriel51 said:
The ground side of the battery should only connect through the 1/4" jack. Tie all the grounds together and hook up to one side of the jack and the other side of the jack should connect to the negative side of the battery.
This is the only way to wire it and make sure nothing draws current unless the amp cord is plugged in.

I Photoshopped your picture so I could get a better look.
Click to expand...

That's how it is now , one side goes to ground the preamp , the other to the battery and white to preamp .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back