Oh man, that had me in tears. Love those guys.
+1.
I saw This is Spinal Tap with my first band when it first came out in 1984 on my 15th birthday. In one of those multi/mini-plex theatres. Good times.
We have been quoting it ever since.

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Oh man, that had me in tears. Love those guys.

tomorrow is the big Album release show! I'm super excited! I'd say the best part is that our very Joe (mrbassie) is coming out.

Right on, man. Stay positive and kick its miserable C ass.
I've been to that Chicago Music Exchange and Bass Club Chicago and they both have some great basses. Which one were you at? If it's Bass Club, I think I've played the buckeye you are talking about --- its a nice one!!! They had it on a rack as I walked in the door. First bass I saw - for real! Nice way to greet the new customers.![]()
and thank you.thank you for your prayers and kind words. i was diagnosed last feb. i do have strong faith and i KNOW i will win!![]()
NBD for me too!!![/URL]
I think I am going to do the same to mine when I get my tax refund. I really like the look of black hardware with the buckeye.
Hey all! Just got hold of a LX 435 from a tb'er and it's winging it's way here as we speak. I'm a little green on the 35's though, and was wondering if anyone can tell me how they compare in terms of the neck length to a standard 34 euro. Maybe a pic of the two side by side would be cool (but also a bit far fetched lol) I used to own a BTB and also a ESP F404, both of which are 35 scales. But I know in most cases, different 35's tend to be apples and oranges depending on the brand etc.
also, is there any noticeable degree of extra stretch for those low frets? I'm a big enough guy and have long arms so figured I should be able to handle things, but having played 34's solely for about ten years, I figured some advice wouldn't go amiss.
anyone?
You won't notice much of a difference in size. It's really only 1/2 an inch extra above the 12th fret, and that's spread out across all the fret spacing, and the same from the 12th fret to the bridge.
I've switched effortlessly back & forth between a 34" and a 35" and really couldn't tell without looking closely. The only thing I really noticed was the fundamental notes being slightly more prominent on the 35" and the lower strings being a teeny bit tighter.
(sorry chris!).. so I saw the sweet looking plum 435 on here and snapped it up quick fast.. even if it was a 35, figured it's a speccy so it's freakin worth it Hey all! Just got hold of a LX 435 from a tb'er and it's winging it's way here as we speak. I'm a little green on the 35's though, and was wondering if anyone can tell me how they compare in terms of the neck length to a standard 34 euro. Maybe a pic of the two side by side would be cool (but also a bit far fetched lol) I used to own a BTB and also a ESP F404, both of which are 35 scales. But I know in most cases, different 35's tend to be apples and oranges depending on the brand etc.
also, is there any noticeable degree of extra stretch for those low frets? I'm a big enough guy and have long arms so figured I should be able to handle things, but having played 34's solely for about ten years, I figured some advice wouldn't go amiss.
anyone?
I've had two 435s before and had no problem at all with the fret spacing or neck lenght although my hands are not big. Actualy on 435 the extra inch of scale is achieved by bridge moved closer to the body end rather than the overall lenght of the instrument.
sooo basically, I get what feels like a standard spector, with a bit of extra tension to handle my drop D and C stuff by shifting the bridge? This makes more sense than just extending the neck.. well now I know what to expect when it gets here I guess.. would you recommend using extra-long scale strings? like say DR DDT's? or can I stick to my 45-105 dragon skin's without any issues? maybe just a bit of extra tightness on E tuning?
The neck is actually a bit longer, but it's longer within the same instrument lenght, i.e. does not stick one inch aside. Of couse there's a bit difference in fingers stretching but it's minor and since you have long arms you won't notice it. Personally I felt more difference between 34'' and 35'' when playing higher notes up the 12th fret where 34 seems tighter in fret spacing.
DDTs 65-120 won't fit the bridge slots, I tried their 65-120 set for BEAD tuning. But if it's drop D you can try their 55-115 set, would be enough and they may just sqweeze in the bridge slots..When selecting strings for your Spector keep an eye on tapered strings as they will fit the bridge easily, at least the 1st and 2nd strings (E and A or whatever you tune your 435 to).
Got to try out the Brooklyn at full throttle today and compare it to the Kramers. The Brooklyn was slightly lighter than the Kramers and has the original drop tuner pretty cool. I would say the tone is almost identical to the blue figured maple that Jeff had (the double boxed bass). Which is pretty &*%*ing unbelievable. Only difference was the Brooklyn was a little brighter due to the .95 vs. the .123 on the Kramer era. The neck on the Brooklyn was just slightly thicker than the figured maple Kramer era not much at all (so Jeff would not want it)and the Flamed maple is a bit thicker than both. The Brooklyn has been played quite a bit. The Schaller post mounted on the front horn is worn completely thru
The blue flamed maple Kramer era, has a new 9v in it and all I can say is that they don't make them like they used to. That was the first to come and when I played it I thought "Nothing could beat this" well.... I was wrong twice. These will be passed down to my son for sure. I really hope to get some time to record these comparisons and the modded Rebop 5 soon. Gonna head up and pay a visit to MrBassie at the end of the month for a refinish on the figured maple Kramer era..
This bass came with the absolute best setup I have ever played. Incredibly low, buzz free action. Out of the box! I was floored by this. At this point I have played various Spectors at different price points.
Man you don't need x-long strings sets, any regular 4 string set will do for your Spector, you can believe me. Extra long's are made mostly for basses with strings-through body construction and it's not this case.Thanks man! all good advice.. I was thinking of DDT's simply because I prefer DR's in general, but yeah wasn't too sure about them fitting the bridge.. the other option for extra long's was prosteel's.. but not a big dd fan, damn things snap faster than most other brands.. not sure who else makes x-long strings, especially tapered.. have to do some research now
The neck is actually a bit longer, but it's longer within the same instrument lenght, i.e. does not stick one inch aside. Of couse there's a bit difference in fingers stretching but it's minor and since you have long arms you won't notice it. Personally I felt more difference between 34'' and 35'' when playing higher notes up the 12th fret where 34 seems tighter in fret spacing.
DDTs 65-120 won't fit the bridge slots, I tried their 65-120 set for BEAD tuning. But if it's drop D you can try their 55-115 set, would be enough and they may just sqweeze in the bridge slots..When selecting strings for your Spector keep an eye on tapered strings as they will fit the bridge easily, at least the 1st and 2nd strings (E and A or whatever you tune your 435 to).
Man you don't need x-long strings sets, any regular 4 string set will do for your Spector, you can believe me. Extra long's are made mostly for basses with strings-through body construction and it's not this case.
Just keep in mind that if you want BEAD tuning and you try to string your 435 with 4 low strings taken from regular 5string set and if strings B and E are not tapered, they in 90% won't fit the bridge slots. But if B and E are tapered you'll be ok with them. If you don't drop below D then you could try DDT 45 or DDT 55. They are good for staying in tune.