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Spector Club - Part 13

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#681
Any Spector Bridge swappers out there? Anyone know what I should use to glue my new brass bridge down to my NS-2000/4 with? I just replaced the bridge and tuning machines. Preamp and pickups are next after bridge!!!! Can't wait!!!!
 

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#682
bassgiant15 said:
Any Spector Bridge swappers out there? Anyone know what I should use to glue my new brass bridge down to my NS-2000/4 with? I just replaced the bridge and tuning machines. Preamp and pickups are next after bridge!!!! Can't wait!!!!
Click to expand...

I have a free floating nut.... on my NS-2J... it's a brass one.
 
#685
LimaGuy said:
In preperation for the hurricane. I evacuated the Spectors off the wall in cases and gig bags into an inner closet.
I left the NS-2A sunburst out so I can play it with my battery powered Tascam CD-BT2 when we loose power.

I will try to communicate if possible through my android app but if not, I assume you will not hear from me for about a week due to no power. I am in a Borough of NYC and so far the eye looks like it will track very close to me.

Keep yourself, your family and your Spectors safe.
Click to expand...

You and your family Keep safe my good friend! P.S. Ship all basses to Michigan for safety! :D
 
#687
bassgiant15 said:
Any Spector Bridge swappers out there? Anyone know what I should use to glue my new brass bridge down to my NS-2000/4 with? I just replaced the bridge and tuning machines. Preamp and pickups are next after bridge!!!! Can't wait!!!!
Click to expand...

I've done both bridge and nut replacements on several of my SPECTOR basses including a bridge swap-out recently on my NS-4 Water Cured Redwood.

Bridges should always be screwed in to the body. Glue won't hold a bridge in place for very long considering the enormous pressures that bass strings exert when they are tuned.

Below is the script for an upcoming SPECTORCare Video about replacing your bridge. I figured I'd share it with you now.

If the new bridge has a different screw pattern than the original and they are far enough away from the original holes as to not create a issue where the new screw wants to mis-thread into the old holes I'd do the following:
  1. place the bridge and use a pencil to mark the dead center of the new screw holes onto the body's wood.
  2. take a drill and tap the hole, going the depth of the new screw. Make sure you use the appropriate sized drill bit to make the tap hole, you don't want to use too small a bit because the new screw will still go in roughly and too large a bit and you take the chance that the new screws won't be secure.
  3. Then tap the holes with the screws WITHOUT having the bridge in place. DO THIS BY HAND WITH A SCREWDRIVER. A power driver/drill with screwdriver head can strip the hole and they are harder to control. You want these screws going in as straight as possible.
  4. Once you've tapped the holes with the new screws, take them out and gently sand the top of the wood over the holes so that there are no raised areas... YOU WANT YOUR NEW BRIDGE TO SIT COMPLETELY FLAT.
  5. Be sure to completely clean any debris left over from the drilling and tapping out of the bridge recess area. Again, you want nothing that will affect the bridge sitting perfectly flat in the bridge route/recess.
  6. Then put the bridge in place, make sure it's in the proper placement and using your hand and a screw driver place all three or four (whatever the new bridge calls for) screws into the holes about 1/2 way in. Get all screws in place and then carefully, one at a time starting with the center-most screws, screw them into place BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM YET.
  7. Once they are all in place BUT not tightened, check the bridge placement and make sure everything is still correct. Then one at a time tighten the screws down but DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THEM! They just need to be snug. Tight but not too tight.

Then string it up and you're ready to go.

*IF the old screw mount holes are causing a problem then you need to fill them with wood filler, let them set and then sand the area over them until it is level with the rest of the bridge route/recess area.

It's ideal to let this wood filler sit 72 hours before attempting to re-tap the bass/guitar body for the new bridge mount screw positions.

------------------------------------------

Trace mentioned he has a free-floating nut on one of his basses. And I've done this before too.

  1. But usually three little drops of crazy glue/super glue (whatever brand you want to call it) is good for putting a nut into place.
  2. The two outer drops should be placed about a centimeter from the outside edge of the nut and then a drop in the center.
  3. You may want to practice placing the nut in the desired place a few times before doing it with glue. The glue sets quickly and once it's there that's it. You have to break the bond and do it again if you get it wrong.
  4. To break the bond a q-tip with some acetone, or nail polish remover, will do the trick to make the glue brittle enough that if you press on the nut from the fingerboard side, the bond should break. Be careful and don't use too much acetone... it's really bad for your bass or guitar's finish and fingerboard.

I hope this helps! Here are the photos from my adventure, which was actually a stroll in the park, when changing out the bridge on my NS-4.

I used the same body/bridge screws that were original to the body and the original bridge. I didn't have to change bridge mount screw hole locations because the new bridge and old bridge have identical placement. But I did observe the rest of the rules for mounting the new bridge as mentioned above.

Remember, as excited as we all get to update or upgrade our basses, taking the extra time to being methodical will not only improve the longevity of your instrument and provide a greater playing experience, but it will also ensure that your bass or guitar's value isn't diminished through the update/upgrade process.

Lastly, by making sure you take the time to do things correctly you prevent potential unforeseen damage to your instrument which could eventually render it useless.

And with these amazing and beautiful instruments, none of us want that.


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#688
LimaGuy said:
In preperation for the hurricane. I evacuated the Spectors off the wall in cases and gig bags into an inner closet.
I left the NS-2A sunburst out so I can play it with my battery powered Tascam CD-BT2 when we loose power.

I will try to communicate if possible through my android app but if not, I assume you will not hear from me for about a week due to no power. I am in a Borough of NYC and so far the eye looks like it will track very close to me.

Keep yourself, your family and your Spectors safe.
Click to expand...

SAM!!! OMG!!!

Dude! Do this: get a 30 gallon plastic garbage bag and place each gig bag and case inside of one (or two) bags and tape the ends closed with duct tape.

I grew up in Savannah, GA and have personally lived through 3 hurricanes. They may be protected in an inner closet from wind but WATER damage often happens when high winds blow shingles off or damage a roof. So WATER PROOF those bad boys.

You may even want to wrap the basses themselves in plastic bags inside the cases and gig bags.

And make sure they're up off the ground if you live in a single-story house. Set them up off the floor of that closet.

G-dspeed (sorry I'm Jewish so I don't write the name of G-d... ask me if you want to know why... LOL). I'll pray that you and your family and friends are all safe through this and I hope you don't have any property damage or loss.

Please keep us informed of how you're doing!
 
#694
Thanks for the tips Patrick! Much appreciated!!!

I'll be praying for ya Sam. I can't stand hurricanes! Being in Florida I've been through....I lost count how many.
 
#696
JPSBassist said:
SAM!!! OMG!!!

Dude! Do this: get a 30 gallon plastic garbage bag and place each gig bag and case inside of one (or two) bags and tape the ends closed with duct tape.

I grew up in Savannah, GA and have personally lived through 3 hurricanes. They may be protected in an inner closet from wind but WATER damage often happens when high winds blow shingles off or damage a roof. So WATER PROOF those bad boys.

You may even want to wrap the basses themselves in plastic bags inside the cases and gig bags.

And make sure they're up off the ground if you live in a single-story house. Set them up off the floor of that closet.

G-dspeed (sorry I'm Jewish so I don't write the name of G-d... ask me if you want to know why... LOL). I'll pray that you and your family and friends are all safe through this and I hope you don't have any property damage or loss.

Please keep us informed of how you're doing!
Click to expand...

Ditto... Hope LimaGuy and everyone else find safety from the storm.
 
#699
I have a new to me performer dlx and Its lacking a little bit in the low end department. my low E doesn't respond like the other strings. Its got the passive EMG pups. I have it dialed i as much as I can. what do you guys recommend for pups? should I go active? anyone upgrade these basses before? thanks in advance
 
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