• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Spector Club - Part 13

Status
Not open for further replies.
#161
#163
nervous said:
I know that this has been mentioned but needing tapered strings certainly will limit your choices and truly all it takes is a simple little unnoticable squeeze on the B string with some Vise-Grips and you're in business. Couldn't be easier, no damage and no problem. My .130 is a breeze. Try it before abandoning your favorite string...and no need to raise the bridge saddles.
Click to expand...
THIS!!!!!!!!!!^^^
It's so simple. It works like a charm.
I posted this several threads back. The few that tried it raved about how easy it was. Everybody else seems to have missed it.

DON'T FILE YOUR BRIDGE!!!
 
#164
madbassplaya said:
How do you achieve this?



This is when the neck is moving away from the strings with a slight curvature, correct?



This is when the neck is moving towards the strings (causing the buzz)?

Yea, I'm new to my own set ups. :D
Click to expand...
There are several threads on this subject and some videos on the SPECTOR website..
relief is loosening the truss rod and allowing the neck to bend to the front side of the bass.
strain (tension) is tightening the truss rod and bending the neck towards the rear side of the bass.
There are also 2-way truss rods that if you loosen enough will start to push the neck forward creating even more space between the fret and string.
be careful not to over-tighten the truss rod - it will snap and this is a spendy fix... 10-4?
 
#165
Tracebassplayer said:
There are several threads on this subject and some videos on the SPECTOR website..
relief is loosening the truss rod and allowing the neck to bend to the front side of the bass.
strain (tension) is tightening the truss rod and bending the neck towards the rear side of the bass.
There are also 2-way truss rods that if you loosen enough will start to push the neck forward creating even more space between the fret and string.
be careful not to over-tighten the truss rod - it will snap and this is a spendy fix... 10-4?
Click to expand...

I snapped the truss rod on my ibanez :( it was no good, so I bought a spector
I posted pics how come they haven't showed up?
 
#166
My head was ready to explode with all of this talk about strings so I finally just broke down and ordered a set of the stainless steel Spector strings from their site. I think that is what I have on my Euro 5LX right now and I really like them so I will stick with them.

If I do need any kind of adjustments, my luthier (LimaGuy) already offered to set it up right for me :D After the fiasco I had with this local luthier at a very reputable music store by me, I am very hesitant to let just anyone touch my gear.
 
#168
worshiprocker said:
I snapped the truss rod on my ibanez :( it was no good, so I bought a spector
I posted pics how come they haven't showed up?
Click to expand...

code looks like this
 
#179
bunkaroo said:
Just to add to the string conversation, I've put both DR and Dunlop non-tapered 130's on my Euro 5LX and Euro 6LX with no problem. A little snug to get through but it goes.

Incidentally I've found both recorded and live I prefer the Dunlop nickels to the DR Lo-Rider nickels.
Click to expand...

Same here...when I converted my former NS-2A to BEAD, I used D'Addario ECB81-5, 132 100 080 065, tight fit but no problems.
 
#180
madbassplaya said:
I haven't tried the denatured alcohol deal.

I'm thinking of going with a set of SIT strings or GHS strings.

If you don't wanna use that Spector send, shoot me a pm! :D
Click to expand...

GHS!!!! :bassist: I use the GHS primarily on my basses, M3050 & M3050-5 Precision SS FW. They last and last plus a warm tone!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back