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Squier Classic Vibe Club (Part 3)

#3,181
@edwinhurwitz , I have used slinkies in other basses and they are indeed excellent cost/benefit.
I ended up using the sunbeams and I am happy with them. tks!

@Yahboy I may try the TI Flats on this CV50P at some point - but they are working well on my CV60P/EMG and I wanted rounds on the CV50P which has a lower impedance pup (6.76 kOHMS) and may benefit from them. Tks!
 
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#3,182
jpaulo said:
@edwinhurwitz , I have used slinkies in other basses and they are indeed excellent cost/benefit.
I ended up using the sunbeams and I am happy with them. tks!

@Yahboy I may try the TI Flats on this CV50P at some point - but they are working well on my CV60P/EMG and I wanted rounds on the CV50P which has a lower impedance pup (6.76 kOHMS) and may benefit from them. Tks!
Click to expand...

6.76k are lower than usual vintage single coil p pup which has 7.1k std.

I forgot to measure this used CV50P pup output, but those previous are read within 7.1k - 7.6k.

I been try 6.3k single coil p pup bought from AliExpress on my earlier CIC CV 50P. Slightly Underwound sound more open and sweet when using flatwound bass string.
But that pup just hum crazy even how I adjust my playing position compare to any stock single coil I been use. Completely work like an antenna .
 
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#3,183
Update on my used Indo CV50P.

After polish all fret wire, only found few little wear signed on few frets. Not serious actually.

Plug all those miss pre-drilling bridge hole, clean the bridge and install it.

Put the neck back and check no level problem after tight up.

Glue a piece of paper on the nut bottom then sand it until it has enough thickness for me to do nut file process especially the A nut slot.

LTF4A reload and neck relief/ action setup.
The final is nut slot file and intonation process.

Now the bass play quite well with my personal action prefer setup.
1.75mm E to 1.4mm G. Neck relief.010.

All the note ring well except notable dead spot C on G string and 2 second sustain A on E string. Clip on my custom modified clip on end of headstock able increase that A note sustain longer until 4 second before fade.

IMG_20230813_112108.jpg


There are 2 high fret on second and 5th fret wire cause fret buzz , fix by my master who always give me lot input and knowledge on bass repair and inspect.

Plug in to amp, this CV50P has better note definition on E string compare to others 3 I been own. Just surprised. All previous Indo CV50P also using LTF4A, but this one notable sound better. I suspect the weight on body make she sound superior. Or, the well aged LTF4A has magic on tone ?

She weight this...... Shocking , right?
IMG_20230813_104612.jpg


The neck are weight only 1.17kg, but the body are tank !!!! The neck hard to get dive.

Above are my honest person share base from my skill and knowledge. Thanks for reading.
 
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#3,184
Yahboy said:
Update on my used Indo CV50P.

After polish all fret wire, only found few little wear signed on few frets. Not serious actually.

Plug all those miss pre-drilling bridge hole, clean the bridge and install it.

Put the neck back and check no level problem after tight up.

Glue a piece of paper on the nut bottom then sand it until it has enough thickness for me to do nut file process especially the A nut slot.

LTF4A reload and neck relief/ action setup.
The final is nut slot file and intonation process.

Now the bass play quite well with my personal action prefer setup.
1.75mm E to 1.4mm G. Neck relief.010.

All the note ring well except notable dead spot C on G string and 2 second sustain A on E string. Clip on my custom modified clip on end of headstock able increase that A note sustain longer until 4 second before fade.

View attachment 5156062

There are 2 high fret on second and 5th fret wire cause fret buzz , fix by my master who always give me lot input and knowledge on bass repair and inspect.

Plug in to amp, this CV50P has better note definition on E string compare to others 3 I been own. Just surprised. All previous Indo CV50P also using LTF4A, but this one notable sound better. I suspect the weight on body make she sound superior. Or, the well aged LTF4A has magic on tone ?

She weight this...... Shocking , right?
View attachment 5156061

The neck are weight only 1.17kg, but the body are tank !!!! The neck hard to get dive.

Above are my honest person share base from my skill and knowledge. Thanks for reading.
Click to expand...

yours is really a heavy bass! I could not handle it…
my 50p is around 4kg and a little lighter than my 60p.
It does not have the high mass bridge and got 100g lighter w/o the shield and maybe a few grams less with .040 sunbeams.
Some neck dive but my tuners seem to be good enough to be changed (better than my stock CVC 60p which now has hipshots).

your action and relief seems really low, how are you measuring it?

I capo the first fret and measure action at the 17th - around 2mm at the E and other strings.

For relief, capo at the first and 17th then measure it at the 8th - around 0.20mm.
Usually get buzz if I go lower than that on any bass.

For pup height, I press the last fret of the bass and measure from top of pole to bottom of string and make it more than 2.4mm, or more if I'm getting distorted sound and less if the output is too low.

I can't touch nut or adjust frets by myself, yet - and ventured once into neck shimming, but that is an iteractive art I found not to be good at…
 
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#3,185
jpaulo said:
yours is really a heavy bass! I could not handle it…
my 50p is around 4kg and a little lighter than my 60p.
It does not have the high mass bridge and got 100g lighter w/o the shield and maybe a few grams less with .040 sunbeams.
Some neck dive but my tuners seem to be good enough to be changed (better than my stock CVC 60p which now has hipshots).

your action and relief seems really low, how are you measuring it?

I capo the first fret and measure action at the 17th - around 2mm at the E and other strings.

For relief, capo at the first and 17th then measure it at the 8th - around 0.20mm.
Usually get buzz if I go lower than that on any bass.

For pup height, I press the last fret of the bass and measure from top of pole to bottom of string and make it more than 2.4mm, or more if I'm getting distorted sound and less if the output is too low.

I can't touch nut or adjust frets by myself, yet - and ventured once into neck shimming, but that is an iteractive art I found not to be good at…
Click to expand...

My neck relief check point on mine is 7th fret while left hand press the first fret and right arm press the last fret in standing position (strap on my body)instead lay down the bass guitar.

If I setup the bass lay down, when you play the bass in standing position, due to the gravity , the neck relief with increase the clearance value.

Example.010 when set lay down the bass, once you check it again in standing position. The neck relief could increase to ..014 or more. Even rock solid roasted maple neck on Bacchus J still has same result .

Setup lay down also change my action height too.

To me, I always using my personal setup preferences as bass guitar fretwork and neck condition/quality inspection standards.

That's why I always complain current Indo CV and previous VM quality can't get close to all CIC CV , Sterling Ray4/5 and Cheap Bacchus BJB1RSM I own.

My low action spec just make some bass factory fretwork and neck wood condition shown their weakness and poor factory quality.

That's the reason cause argument right here to some member has different setup and inspection who not agree with me.

Try 1.75mm E, 1.50mm A, 1.4mm D and 1.25mm G action (17th fret check point ) setup along with .010 neck relief (7th check point ). Nut slot clearance 0.1mm E, 0.09mm A and 0.08mm D/G.

* If you set all the nut slot clearance to lowest 0.076mm, both E and A string will touch the first and second fret wire while you fretting 3rd fret when you play the bass in standing position.

Nut clearance setup also my personal idea after try and error experience. So, CA glue , backing soda and name card thickness paper always standby inside the drawer.

If you guy's Indo CV bass able play without single fret buzz with medium plucking hand. Congratulations, you got a flawless current Indo CV bass from factory.

Need mention I use low tension flat.
 
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#3,187
Yahboy said:
If you guy's Indo CV bass able play without single fret buzz with medium plucking hand with my above setup . Congratulations, you got a flawless current Indo CV bass from factory.
Click to expand...
unlikely, but I am happy with my higher action setup for now.
I will try lower at some point and post, but my guess is I would need a professional setup to get that low.
tks
 
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#3,189
Texican said:
Personally, I don't like a super low action setup on a bass. But everyone's preferences are different.
Click to expand...

Super low action are suit for slap and tap too. But for slapper bass setup, I have different nut slot height setup and flatter neck relief.080. To make sure all fret and slap action able get evenly and same feeling from 2nd fret to 17th~20th fret.

Compound radius fretboard are easier for me to do setup for slap and tap setting. But entire fret level must level well. If not, it is nightmare for super low action setup to me.
 
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#3,190
Yahboy said:
Super low action are suit for slap and tap too. But for slapper bass setup, I have different nut slot height setup and flatter neck relief.080. To make sure all fret and slap action able get evenly and same feeling from 2nd fret to 17th~20th fret.

Compound radius fretboard are easier for me to do setup for slap and tap setting. But entire fret level must level well. If not, it is nightmare for super low action setup to me.
Click to expand...
I guess I'm lucky that I don't require that much finesse. It would take a lot more time and effort (and money) to get my basses dialed in that precisely. I mostly play fingerstyle and like to be able to dig in a little.
 
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#3,195
The sunburst CV50P look everything fine before deep inspection.

Unlike all Indo CV50P I been own, the tuning machines on this one turn smoother and has luxury feel ....

So far both pot are free from scratching noise compare to 2 of my previous Indo CV50P. But the odd thing is tone pot work like on/off switch. No tone different between 60-100%.
B
ridge, pickguard and pickups just fine.

The neck pocket still has painted left and the pocket not flat at all. But still not as serious as the used I bought few weeks ago.

The neck heel are thicker on E string side, meanwhile thinner on G string side, the difference around 1.4mm. This cause the neck look warp !
Once clean the neck pocket are and make sure it is flat, I sand down the neck heel bottom of E string side carefully. And finally both side has pretty close thickness with on 0.3mm different.

The nut slot cut too deep on both A and G string cause open string buzz when using my personal prefer neck relief and action setup.

High fret found on second fret (E and G string create buzzing ) and 9th fret.( D and G string buzzing ). Will level them after nut slot repair.

All CV50P I been own has short sustain on E string within G, G# and A. But this one has no such issue, that's is a great thing to me. Meanwhile, the D# dead spot on G string sound less dead too.

This bass weight 4.45kg, less than my CIC CV 50P and used Indo CV50P, but still more weight than all three Indo CV50P bought new (4.2kg-4.36kg).

The only mod on this bass are swap the heavy stock knob to lighter dome knob . I don't like flat top knob on 51s pbass.
 
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#3,199
I am currently asking Anodized Pickguard Custom Store make the pickguard for indo CV50P. Hope fully i can put one on my sunburst CV50P soon. He will make Black and Gold, i do believe black look nice on white blonde body , and i want a gold on my sunburst body.

Meanwhile, i also asking him do me a reverse P pup pickguard for my Squier VM PJ mod project.

If you guys looking for anodized pickguard for you CV60J and CV60P, this is the great store. 100% direct fit.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/other-products/1100267270.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.588eOOu4OOu41C
 

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