These are really great basses. I have had one for two months and think its a killer value. I'm thinking of putting a p-retro pre amp in mine and possibly a nordstrand to go with it.
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Squier Vintage Modified Precision V: who's got one?
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
Harsh trebles are gone. What I gained were string to string balance and overall clarity in the sound. Now it doesn't sound like I have 2 separate pickups on the bass. It sounds very close to Am std 4 banger. Well worth the $70.
I'm thinking if doing the same to mine. The stock pickup is okay but I think the Fender pickup will improve things. Anyone think replacing the pots, cap, wiring and jack would also improve things?
This bass has become my main gigging bass completely stock. Heck, I've still got the stock strings on it. No mods necessary IMHO.
Big fat ditto here, dead stock, I wasted my $ on all American Fender PUPs/electronics and Pguard which are sitting in a drawer, nothing needs changing. And my main bass is a P5, so I have something to compare it to.
Frets leveled, deglossed the back of neck and headstock like regular fenders. Ditched the neckplate and drilled out for ferrules. Neck plate weighs almost 2 ounces! I maaay swap out the tuners in the future, but the bass is pretty much as good as it gets for the least amount of $ thrown at it. Weighs 9lbs flat.
I installed a switchcraft output jack as the original felt very flimsy to me. While I was at it I swapped out the capacitor for a nice orange drop that I had in my part box. The top-end sounds a little "sweeter", without the harshness of the original. The stock tuners are stable, but I find them very stiff as compared to the Hipshots I have in other basses. I may change them at some point.
Cheers
Cheers
Thanks for taking the time to write they lengthy reply. I've never really paid much attention to specific details like that.
That seems like a good method to use when setting up a bass. I'll have to try it.
The VMP5's I've sampled all had a thick and slightly bumpy finish.
If you just want to knock the gloss off, a fine 3M Pad or 400 grit sandpaper will work fine.
I recommended taping off the back of the headstock, so that you can control the line where the gloss starts. I like to take the neck off, so that I can get around the heel without risk of harming the body.
If you want a more luxurious feel, you can use a sanding block to level the high spots, and progress up through the grits from 320 to ???
The key to avoiding burn-through and sanding scratches, is to not spend too long on any single grit, and don't skip any.
Automotive paint shops sell 1000 through 2500 grit, which can get you all the way back to a semi- gloss finish with the aid of a bit of Meguiars...
If you just want to knock the gloss off, a fine 3M Pad or 400 grit sandpaper will work fine.
I recommended taping off the back of the headstock, so that you can control the line where the gloss starts. I like to take the neck off, so that I can get around the heel without risk of harming the body.
If you want a more luxurious feel, you can use a sanding block to level the high spots, and progress up through the grits from 320 to ???
The key to avoiding burn-through and sanding scratches, is to not spend too long on any single grit, and don't skip any.
Automotive paint shops sell 1000 through 2500 grit, which can get you all the way back to a semi- gloss finish with the aid of a bit of Meguiars...
I find 400 too coarse for the job... What works well for me is the fine steel wool (sold as 000 or 0000 grade over here)
On every neck, I start with a 320 grit stuck to a flat block. Fender gloss is quite thick, so you don't have to worry about burning through at this point. You can start with finer grit, but they will get clogged up real quick. Even with 320 grit, I have to vacuum off the dust quite often. Don't apply too much pressure, and each successive grit will get rid of the rough scratches.
I just take off the neck and knock down the gloss on the entire backside like regular fenders. While I'm at it, I sand the heel with a block to make it fit better in the neck pocket. Neck heel on the VMP5 was excessively tight.
After 320 grit, I repeat the process with 600 grit, 800, 1000 then 2000. You can buy an assorted pack of 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500grit sandpapers at autozone. Anything over 1000 grit will probably be redundant to some people tho. A few days of playing will burnish away the initial rough feeling and make the neck super smooth. I did't sand down the finish as thin as other necks, but it still feels much better than stock.
I just take off the neck and knock down the gloss on the entire backside like regular fenders. While I'm at it, I sand the heel with a block to make it fit better in the neck pocket. Neck heel on the VMP5 was excessively tight.
After 320 grit, I repeat the process with 600 grit, 800, 1000 then 2000. You can buy an assorted pack of 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500grit sandpapers at autozone. Anything over 1000 grit will probably be redundant to some people tho. A few days of playing will burnish away the initial rough feeling and make the neck super smooth. I did't sand down the finish as thin as other necks, but it still feels much better than stock.
IME, people who like 400 grit are usually the ones who find the gloss finish too sticky. This could relate to grip, hand size, skin chemistry, etc. They seem to prefer 400 grit because it doesn't rub back up to a gloss as quickly.
I personally prefer the "soft" feeling of the finish after it's been leveled and polished out to 2000 or 2500 grit.
0000 steel wool works well, but prep and cleanup can be a real headache. Dust and fragments get everywhere if you're not careful, and can mess up your pots. They can also get caught on the end of a lifted fret, or build up in an open-pore finish.
If you use steel wool, be sure to either bag and tape the body, or move it out of your workspace.
They are great basses though I have some reservations. I"ve got an old Squier p/j-bass special I modded with Am-stand pickup and here are my comments on the P-V.
The Good. It's a P bass and a very well made Squier at a super price. I love a p-bass neck so much more than a Jazz. I don't get people who put a jazz neck on a P-bass. It's standard passive bass with all the great mojo that goes with it.
The Bad. First it's not a P/J. It would be so much cooler as a P/J 5 string. And the pickup could use an upgrade to Am. Std. pup, but that's not a big problem.
The Ugly. My main gripe about my Squier P/J is that it has an agathis body rather than alder. It doesn't change tone much but changes feel in my hands. And this Squier is basswood which is going to be even more rolled off in tone in a passive bass. So that means the fix is going to be as Thedeadking is thinking which is an active preamp to compensate.
So the bottom line here is there is a lot of good p-bass bargain here. But I'm not having GAS because of the basswood body, and the fact it's not a P/J. Upgrading would start to add enough money it's not such a bargain anymore. Why doesn't Fender make a nice P/J 5 string bass in alder even if the pickups were crap? Oh I know, because all they'd sell is one to me and some other crazy guy.
